The Dan

The only one I think you can get is the R32 GTR one I have this one, there are not many differences between the RB26 and the RB20 Apart from the engine and the 4WD system, everything is the same

what he said ^

You have to be careful beacuse that 4WD fuse is also the fuse for the ABS so now your ABS won't work. Your ABS works off your 4WD system. C'mon people, a little more research.

A friend of mine had a home invasion where someone was going to kill him with a knife and it took them 40 minutes to get there. He lives 2 minutes from the station. I had a home invasion and it took 3 hours for them to get to my house. The guy sat out the front shooting up. I had to get a bat to chase him away. Pitty these idiots can't find something better to do with their time than wait for innocent enthusiasts at petrol stations. I'm getting a copy of the ADR and the TRAFFIC LEGISLATION printed out this weekend. I'm keeping a copy in the car with me at all times...they can chew me at the base. hahaha

The law in Queensland says that you are allowed to have them. I have never heard of anyone getting done for that. I'll find out exactly what the go is.

I am having a problem with my R32 and I have tried everything. It drives fine for the first 5-10 minutes, then it goes crap....lacks power and won't accelerate. I am getting no error codes. Here are the things I have replaced. TPS AFM KNOCK SENSORS FUEL REG (MALPASSI) - SWAPPED FOR MATES ONE ECU IGNITION AMPLIFIER It has a Bosch 945 (550 hp) fuel pump which is less than a year old a Hybrid Hyflow t3/4 spec turbo Malpassi reg I also just rebuilt the engine. Forgies and stuff. I have tested the o2 sensor, the coolant temp sensor, the coil packs and all the injectors have been cleaned. If I turn the car off while it is doing it (while driving) and then turn it back on again...it comes good for a few minutes...then goes crap again. If I disconnect the plug to the knock sensors, I get an immediate knock sensor code on my scan tool but if I drive it it goes really well all the time....the only problem is when you go to accel...there is a delay for about 2 seconds, then you almost end up in the back seat. Other than that, it goes really good with the knock sensors unplugged. also it has trouble revving over 5500 with them unplugged. Anyone got any ideas?

It's a shame we don't have access to HIS details. I wonder how he'd feel if one day when he's having dinner with his family and I come up and DEFECT him. WHAT A GUTLESS PIECE OF 5HIT. I get pulled over by cops all the time and they try to make up the laws as they go along. If I wasn't so well educated in traffic law (mainly coz of my fines), these clowns would get away with it. All I can say people is....learn your law coz those cops are friggin dumb ass and if you know the law, they can't touch you....that is, of course, if you are doing nothing wrong.

I got a Nicks upgraded clutch first, I had 210 RWKW and it was brilliant. I have slightly more than that now and I upgraded to a 4 puck button clutch from Nicks. Clutch fitting should not cost any more than say $250-$300 so depending on what you pay for the clutch kit. If you buy a good clutch for around $400 you can expect to be paying around $650 or so including the install.

I could have done the whole job for you for $2500. I just did mine myself...all up cost me $3200 but I put another head on it and moly rings and race bearings. did button clutch and cleaned all the injectors too. Anyway....hope your other engine works out and let me know if you want a hand dropping it in. I'm in Brissy also.

Well there's no need to be a smart arse about it. Obviously you would have read the post where I said the words: POSSIBILITY and HARD BRAKING. They are there to stop the pad from moving excessively inside the caliper. I didn't write it to scare anyone but to note the importance that these things have. Nissan don't pour millions of dollars into design and research only to have someone tell them that their money is wasted...."just throw them away". Because I'll tell you now that if he has his car insured and it happens to be in an accident, his insurance will be void because they are not there. if the pad moves around too much, he'll bend the pins, eventually they can snap or come out, then pads fly out. I'm here to help him out and all you wanna do it hang shit. Good one.

The car should have around 2.0 - 2.5 degrees neg camber as standard on the rear and 1.5 - 2.0 degrees neg camber on the front. For optimum tyre wear you want around 5.0 mm total toe in on the rear and 3.0 - 4.0 mm toe in on the front. Providing that your camber specs are around these figures. It will change depending on the camber values and depending on your suspension set up. For the track you want almost no toe in on the front and around 2.0-3.0mm toe in on the rear. Don't play around with the castor if you can help it. but if you have to, you can wind it forward as far as will go and it should increase steering stability in general. Make sure though, that if you do this that the castor is set up half a degree higher on the left, sometimes three quarters of a degree higher. You should expect to pay around 60-70 dollars for this type of four wheel alignment and make sure you watch them doing it so they don't do the dodgy on you. Plus, if you have a huge exhaust, sometimes they can interfere with the Left rear rack end and burnt the locking nut tight. Just be prepared for a little extra work if they can't crack it. post the stats up here when it is done or pm them to me and I will tell you if it was done properly. (I was a Wheel alignment technician for 6 years)

Also, get the CV boot fixed...it should only cost you about $30-$40 plus half hour labour. Don't let them tell you that they gotta put a special nissan one on either. Just tell them to fit a 1CVBK, this is a universal CV boot and it will be good. If you let this go for too long, the grease will spray out everywhere and the CV will dry up. This will destroy the CV. As with the upper control arm bushes, are they the inner bush or the main upper bush? either or it doesn't really matter. Don't let them charge you any more than 1 hour per side for the inner bushes. If it is the main upper bush, don't let them charge you any more than half an hour a side.

once those bushes are replaced, check to make sure both threads on the top of the shocky are relatively the same amount. Some bearing plates have a flat side circle where the shaft enters, if this has not been located properly...it will make a horrible noise and will damage the shock and bearing plate. Also check the bearing plate for torn or split rubber. Do the swing off wheel idea that GTS4DIEHARD mentioned, this is good. Check also, if the upper bush does not move get someone else to do it and try to feel the shaft of the shocky while is is being done. There should be no sideways movement. Check the bearing plates when you bounce on the front of the car (the bearing plate is at the very top of the shocky which bolts into your tower) they should remain in basically the same position. With the bush replacement...I would love to help you out, I can buy the kits for under $100 and would fit them for $100, but I'm in Brisbane and I aint drivin to Sydney to install them for ya.

What you have said about the early flame front is absolutely true. and reversion does exist. But too much timing will actually cause this. So it's not really a matter of giving it more timing but giving it the correct timing. You can even go to the extent of making sure all your plugs face the opposite way to your inlet and you can help prevent this also. I think the cams will have a lot to do with it also but it is just a matter of tuning the ecu(Power FC) to match your specs. You will see the difference and feel it too.

Great reply's people. The only ammunition he keeps using is the always spending money on it to fix it. But in reallity, the only money I spent on it to fix it was recently when I blew the head gasket. I coulda fix'd it for $500 but I spent $3000. I said to myself...I love this car more than anything and if I'm gonna keep it for another 3 years, I'm gonna rebuild it and do it properly. There is no use just fixing it to have the same thing happen to me again. So I put in some Ross forgies and rods, moly rings and race bearings. Ported the head and threw a 4 puck button clutch in it. I keep telling him, the work I did on it would have cost around $5500 so it's not that bad really. I did all the work myself and like PHATR32 said...I'll never forget it. I did the absolute best job ever, learnt a packet about my engine and why nissan designed them the way they did, and poured hours and hours into her. I love her even more now, even though there are a couple of things I need to iron out. I think my dad is like all of us in some way or another. How many times have you offered advice to a younger person knowing the exact outcome...because you had gone through it yourself sometime? I know that my car is a money pit, I know that I could probably use that money to go towards a deposit on a house. But the truth is...I will never replace her, because when you watch something grow from something beautiful into something magnificant...and know that you made it the way it is...there is a connection there that can never be broken.

Any of those last things or: An R34 GTR with everything possibly done to it. Damn...Santa's gonna need a big sack for that one....well I guess he only cums once a year so it shouldn't be a problem

It will most definately be on the compliance plate. Not the green one(Australian) it will be on the Japanese one. It is kinda hard to figure out what the japanese says but if you write down the english letters than give them to nissan, they will be able to tell you which one is the paint code.

I was at the wrong end of one of my Dad's lectures again today. Apparently I make many stupid choices and one of them was buying a Skyline. How many people here have thought, maybe I should not have bought my car/boat/house? How many people here are happy with the choices they have made? Who here has suffered abuse from parents, neighbors, friends, other family because of the choices they have made? I know that whenever I get into my car and go for a long drive...I am free. No-one to hassle me, no-one to tell me where to go or who to be.

For Christmas I would like the following: T04E - $1000 800cc injectors - $400 Bigger NOS kit - $350 Haltech installed and Dyno - $1550 Slotted Rotors - $100 each Splitfire Coil packs - $750 Adjustable cam gears - $300 pair 272 Degree Cams - $570 MORE FRIGGIN BOOST - $ABSOLUTELY FREE oh and maybe a new paint job - $1100

3k, gimme 3k I'll do it for ya, what a steal

Not only based on a 1956 Buick design. They are straight out of one.....a FWD Buick no less.

WHAT THE HELL MAN.....IT'S A DAMN CAMRY!

That Daihatsu Naked looks like a mini LandRover it just needs about 50 more rivvets down the side.

I didn't think that was a vacuum hose. He may be talking about the Charcoal Canister hoses or some other pollution gear related vacuum hose. Where does it go from and to. With the Hicas, check the fuse and check that the motor(under car) is still plugged in. Usually they disconnect them overseas.

So true..."hmmm, what's that burning smell?"