The Dan

I just bought my timing belt genuine for 55 dollars. But I get trade on all that crap already.

Definately Battery.

yeah but costs a shitload of money. If you get the metal gasket then you'll probably have to get the block o ringed to suit and if you aren't pushing out massive amount of horsepower ie. 300 rwkw then you need not worry about going to all the trouble of the metal head gasket. They don't seal too well and you will constantly blow it if you don't install it properly or you run too much boost. All I can say is...If you are going to do it ALL, you will have to spend a lot of money. Otherwise just throw some forgies in it, get some 272 cams, adjustable gears, bigger injectors and you should push about 350hp at the treads, maybe more.

yes, definately use the 7 as you will be pushing higher combustion temperatures so this plug is better designed for that....also I have more horsepower than this and the 7's are great....don't go 8 or 9 though, very bad.

Bugger that. Put in some tq dex3. That'll fix it. Like a knife through butter hehe

CRAP. Bearbox comes off in 20 minutes, engine out the top in a hour. If you have the right tools then this is how long it should take. ahh!!....no questions...just DO IT.

check your catalytic converter. If it is blocked...it will be hard to start and sometimes they won't rev over 1500. Drop your exhaust and take it for a blat, loud but effective. Just a thought

check to make sure the pin length is the same on the slave cylinder and that when you operate the pedal, the throwout fork moves all the way. If the pin length is wrong, you can just cut down a bolt the same diameter and round off the end. get someone to watch the fork when you hold the pedal down.....does it slowly return by itself . This will tell you if the hydraulics are loosing pressure. If all these things are good, you might have to remove the box to see if maybe the carrier bearing was put on the wrong way (this should only make a noise). and check that the pressure plate bolts are all tight. Another possibility is that the fork is slightly bent or the adjustment under the pedal is incorrect.

Knew it would be bearings. This happens all the time. The other thing you have to watch out for is when someone is doing the timing belt on your nissan, DON'T EVER LET THEM USE A HARMONIC BALANCER PULLER....EVER. This will crack the internal ring in the balancer and stuff it before you can blink your eyes..

Try testing the resistance of your coil packs between the + and - it should be between 0.6 and 0.9. Hope this helps

I can pretty much beat any price on that crap. I'll see if I remember to check for ya tomorrow. Sorry for the poor grammar, I am tired right now.

yeah

Have you tried ringing someone like autobarn, they have these things on computer...that is of course if autobarn is down south also.

IT IS NOT A KNOCK SENSOR. IT ISN'T USED FOR TIMING EITHER. The ignition is close looped so you will find a thin black wire looping out behind the ignition control module. That is what is used to check timing. The plug you have displayed belongs in front of the left tower near the power steer reservoir and AFM. It is of no importance to you whatsoever and is used as an earthing device for diagnostic check. It usually has the plug in it and tape over the plug. I would still seal the wire as you don't want it to earth by mistake and enter a diagnostic mode. I can tell you EXACTLY what is used for if you really want me to but this involves effort and I will only do on request.

check your brakes as the stock pads will have scratch tabs on them so when you brake lightly or turn they squeak to alert you need a pad change. Also, if the pads are ok, try shoving a garden hose onto the disc/caliper and give them a good wash out. This will get rid or the built up brake dust which can also cause squeaks. The tabs should squeak louder in reverse. also don't do the hose thing when the brakes are hot. make sure the car has sat for a while.

Some f#cker stole my plates the other day.....I thought I was pissed....you have just put things into perspective for me. Thank you.

Some prick stole the plates off my car this morning, out the front of my house.

You guys think you have it hard....My quote was $5400 per year. And that was a stock 32 Hope this has been elightening. Plus...guess who has to drive really careful

A 255/45/18 is going to be much larger than the 235/45/17 You need something like a 245/30/18 or a 245/35/18. Check your local tyre shop for availability P.S. Will cost a friggin fortune

Should be Green wire with Yellow Trace. Make sure you put a switch on it though because if you ever go into HICAS diagnostic mode, if you don't have a switch then you can't exit from that mode. Is really easy to find and works well. I finally outrun a WRX that kept racing me. I would always leave this STI for dust but then....SPEED CUT... five seconds later he would pass me doing the finger. Hmmm, I miss that finger now. Dunno if he sees mine though. HAHA

I have that same problem. it feels similar to a hesitation....the reason for it is the SMART omputer in the skyline which detects lean rich mixtures. You have to wait until the vehicle is almost at running temperature before the O2 sensor can send correct data to the computer ie. the O2 sensor has to effectively warm up in a way. the reason your RB30 didn't do this is because it ran a slightly different computer. There are two sollutions: you could stand there with a lighter and heat it up.....ahaha or you could just let the car warm up before you take off...now that would be a good idea.

Reading the rules would be a great idea buddy. Neil.

What everyone is saying has some element of truth. Being a Mechanic myself I know the answer to your question. NOW EVERYONE PIPE DOWN AND LISTEN..... When your car is totally cold. ie. temp guage reads nothing , Let the car idle for around 4-4.5 minutes before driving off On warm-down you should always let it sit for at least 1 minute before shutting off...Unless you have been HARD boosting, then leave it for 2-2.5 minutes. If you just drive around the corner you can just switch it off straight away, no warm-down necessary. NOW....I will explain...70 Percent, YES 70% of engine wear occurs in the first 11 minutes of driving...you should always pre-heat your engine so that the Thermostat begins to function and the oil temperature and pressure both start to get close to normal. Yes there is such thing as Bore glazing but we're talking like 30 minutes here. Idling for long periods is not advised as the heat build up under your bonnet will cause your electrical connections to become brittle. The reason for warm-down procedure is because while you are boosting there is oil pouring over your turbo bearings and shaft to cool it down. This oil, while boosting, froths up because of the rapid cycle of the turbine wheel (around 200 000 rpm), you need to let the car warm down so that fresh oil can be flushed over the bearings. Otherwise the frothy oil can harden causing a gluggy film over the bearings and shaft of the turbo which, in time, will cause turbo malfunction ie..blown no more. Also it is good practice to warm down your N/A car because it allows the fuel, oil and water pressures/temperatures to return to a safe level for switching off. HOPE THIS HAS BEEN OF ASSISTANCE...SORRY TO ANYONE IF I HAVE OFFENDED YOUR INTELLIGENCE.

The lights don't flash all the time You need to turn to dial clockwise all the way......then wait about 2 seconds....then turn the dial back anti-clockwise....then the lights should start flashing through the clear window. Hope this clears up your question