The Dan

I am not 100% certain as I don't get that many N/A cars through my workshop but from memory the tailshafts are different lengths which might make the diff lengths different. You will need to measure the length and width of the diff. If you can do that, I will (should) be able to measure a couple of R33 GTST diffs I have laying around and tell you if they will suit. Also a photo of your diff might help me remember the last one I did

Check fuel pressure and firing order

You cannot be serious?

No. Hitachi make the bush bearing turbos for Nissan

Yeah but what boost level? All RB ball bearing turbos are Garrett LOL

Yes, 3 or 4 were sent back to the supplier from here recently. 2 of them failed on first fire up backing a car off the trailer. My honest opinion - stay away Others may have not had the same experience but when we get a series of failures all in a row, we start to ask questions. Fuel pump definitely must be one the best quality parts on your car

Something you can do to make things easier is put the gearbox in gear and when you are close to getting it lined up, turn the engine by hand from the front and it will slip onto the spline. If it isn't lined up, it won't slide in that way so it's a good way to tell.

where in yatala and how much?

50c bet says if you pour it on the ground and walk across it you will slip

Is that a donkeys penis hanging down underneath it? I can't tell if its real or if you photoshopped it in there. Should have gone the GT4718 instead of that tiny thing. Make some real power

Put oil in the transfer case

+1 Check spark and injector pulse Check spark plugs Check fuel pressure Check timing belt Check compression in that order

I'm sorry but I have to disagree Carbies do a much better job. True story

I wasn't referring to clutch feeling. Read between the lines (Toyota genuine parts - keep the feeling)

Yeah it will make 300rwkw

Benefit of E85 = everything you want and more

It will effect the cold start only. When you setup the car for tuning, just make sure your tuner makes idle control open all the way and you may still need to crack the throttle open partially on the stop bolt then adjust idle down with the controller.

Yes, I took a balancer off, turned it around and saw it had cracked through 90% of the rubber damper and thought to myself....ohh, that's shit. I'd better replace that shit balancer They aren't shit due to material/design. They are shit due to age. Rubber doesn't last forever and when people realise that half the reason they are breaking oil pumps or damaging engines is due to their stock balancer, they will all start running out to buy one. Sean revs his GTR to 10k, 600hp at the wheels and drives it like a stolen VL. Still going 2.5 years later......but then again, he can tune good too

The only problem doing it off the manifold, though, is that they are split pulse from factory so if you gate off the manifold you only get 3 runners bleeding off

Did a master and slave just recently. RB25 stuff. Not very expensive from Nissan. About $90-$100 on the slave and $140 I think on the master. Go to Nissan. Keep the feeling

Torque figures above look right but I'd have to check my book. GTR would be tighter due to the metric superfine thread it uses (18x1.5) and the fact it's an 18mm bolt instead of a 16mm bolt in the 'lesser' models. Remember boys and girls, it's all about correct tension, not lots of tension. That 18mm bolt is definitely doing to need that much torque to apply the correct stretch to give it the exact preload it needs to never come off. I've seen too many come loose recently....but come to think of it....all GTRs Answering a question above about why replace the stock balancer - It's simple. Because they are shit When they were brand new they were awesome. 20 years later.....shit If you could pick only 3 things to modify in the engine of a GTR to make it near bulletproof at 600-800hp it's : 1. Rod bolts 2. Billet oil pump gear 3. Good aftermarket harmonic balancer We have proven it many many times. Although given the choice, everyone knows my decision on stock rods

I like the bit about the ATR43 and 300rwkw.

I don't know

You cannot get the tension you need using your breaker bar with the car in gear and handbrake on. Apart from doing damage to your gearbox, it's extremely poor practice to tighten a balancer this way. This is the reason I have 3 skylines in my shop at the moment all with f**ked keyways/balancer/crankshaft. Unless, of course, you did it by locking the flywheel in place then that's ok Is the Ross balancer a Metal Jacket standard OEM replacement or the Metal Jacket Race one? Your ATI balancer is underdriven by 25% on P/S I think from memory If your alignment is correct and your tension is correct but you still spit belts, you need to slow it down by underdrive. It's usually the sudden revs that throw them off

How sure are you?