The Dan

There's a handful of different reasons ranging from heavy clutch kicking, revving too high, poor assembly of the engine when it was rebuilt, damaged crank prior to rebuilding but wasn't picked up before it was assembled......and the list goes on I'd need to see every single piece in detail to be able to tell you exactly how it failed.

This is completely incorrect. The N1 oil pump doesn't flow that much and thrust bearing wear isn't caused by oil starvation. The main bearings die long before the thrust side wears out

Check for a popped intercooler pipe

1. Thermo fans aren't an upgrade 2. As mentioned above, your A/C turns off at WOT.

Yep. Sounds right. Problem is, who has that information? And all of us who've changed to E85 automatically have a giant middle finger extended out our window at DOT when it comes time to test for emissions

These aren't from a book (I haven't written it yet anyway) but a healthy pump is usually 0.006-0.008" between the teeth while the pump is out in your hand and while you hold the opposite side meshed together. It's about 0.004" when the pump is installed. Check the flats with verniers to make sure they are parallel all the way across and then measure the crank across the flats to make sure you are within about 0.010-0.015" clearance there. Check for scoring on the round section and make sure the diameter on the running face is identical all the way around, right up to the edge of the flats. Clearance to the crank on that section is usually something like 0.006-0.008" but it can vary between engines. Check the outer diameter of the outer gear and ensure its exactly the same diameter all the way around. Next, install the centre gear in the pump and make sure it turns freely. Take it out and install the outer gear and check the same. Now install both and turn it. Make sure it turns very freely. Now tighten the backing plate down with the screws and make sure you use an impact driver. Now check the pump still turns freely. You should be able to turn it easily with 2 fingers. Now pull it all apart and pre-lube it around the rotor area with engine assembly lube or similar. Re-attach the backing plate using new screws and a single drop of loctite on the thread. Once again, impact drive them down. Remove the pressure relief valve nut from the pump and take out the spring. Turn the pump upside down and the relief valve/piston should slide out cleanly without assistance. Gently place it back in the same way it came out and ensure it slides all the way back down without restriction. Re-install the spring and nut. That's about it Edit: and these instructions assume you have thoroughly cleaned the pump already

I'm sorry to all our French people here

I think someone should actually post a serious response. The French plugs are essentially the same as the Japanese plugs but the centre electrode is actually made from a different material and I think you'll find they only suit cars with 5 reverse gears.

I heard the French ones were a bit tricky to get in but when it came time to get out, they practically removed themselves.....

And I bet absolutely none of the hp produced is anything close to exciting compared to what you produced last week haha. Congratulations!

Take your head to an engineer. Have them recondition it. Bolt it back down with standard bolts and a standard head gasket. Bolt in your standard cams and enjoy everything that Nissan spent hundreds of thousands of dollars designing and perfecting. Or, you can do all of that, spend $$$ on porting and bolt in your standard cams and enjoy the car that will feel EXACTLY the same Or, you can just fix the head, bolt in some aftermarket cams, do no porting, save your $$$ and actually make some gains.

Why did you undo the 3 locking bolts?

The plenum has the highest load on it because of the pressure wave and potential backfires. There is a soft link between the piping and the plenum and that's called a silicon joiner. If you make everything so secure that it will not budge, you then a chance of your piping becoming the weak link. Plenums usually come apart due to backfiring and heat/distortion/stresses rather than actual boost pressure. It's usually just that the guys running big boost are usually always running nitrous as well. A nitrous backfire will tear that shit right up. With 6mm plate, it's likely to either blow a silicon joiner instead or only pop it off the throttle body.

STOP THE PRESSES!!! No more discussion people, only results. Lets stay like mushrooms and never learn anything.

Looks like a giant alloy seagull flew over your house and took a dump on your engine Hahaha jks mate looks good. Who made it?

Most definitely. Half a tank of fuel changes your mph by 1. Another 25kg around the belly can cancel that out too haha. So us fat bastards need to race on 1/4 tank to be just as fast

None taken mate. I was/am probably too busy to do it anyway. The only thing that matters in my book, is that you get a decent job. It's the only reason I even started the business. Too many people getting ripped off and I felt I had to do something about it

I'm just fortunate enough to have the awesome support of SAU QLD. Aint no dodgy/shady mahfuggaz up in this joint. Cept maybe Chris.....

10 of 'em are Sean's but still, I'm on my own haha. I'm kinda the same as that too Ben. I spend more time than I charge in most cases because I like to make sure it's perfect. The only time I haven't been happy with work going out was when I had employees so now I'm solo again. If you want something done right you gotta do it yourself. I'm just glad my customers don't live by that motto

I don't usually like giving my 2 cents but here it is anyway.... If you pay to get a job done and there is a problem.....forget about the original estimated completion time. Like Rob said, he wasn't contactable for quite a while so basically Will would have needed to move on with other jobs to keep the cash flow rolling. He would also have other deadlines to meet and people to keep happy. Once you blow out the allocated time, it starts overlapping your next job and the next and the next. Pretty soon you have too much to handle....like me There comes a point in time where you need to stop answering the phone, stop booking in work and just get them done and then start from scratch again. At the end of the day, you have one of the best engine builders in the industry doing the job, it wasn't his fault Rob wasn't contactable for that period of time and Rob understands this. He is happy to wait longer to make sure the job isn't rushed. As for money up front. f**k carrying all the burden for parts costs until the job is done. We've got 28 cars in the shop at the moment, if each one owed me only $2k in parts........?

Haha blow me!

Are you saying the high stalls, tyres etc are important for mph or ET?

low 10 @ 135-137mph

Standard weight 32 or 33 GTR / GTST that runs 129-130 mph has 400rwkw That's based on everything from 1400-1450kg (3100-3200lb) @ 1550kg (3400lb) it needs to be about 125mph

You can still base your mods/builds on power figures, but when you are using the dyno as the comparative tool rather than the track, the reality can sometimes be skewed. If you race against someone and they are 0.1 second faster around the circuit and you make X amount of hp, you then know you've either gotta make X + 50, get better suspension or tune the suspension or just get better at driving. You're not old, you're just wiser. We are slowly educating our customers as much as possible but it's a slow task. If they ever leave here with a low power figure on the print out, we always tell them to drive it and call back if they are disappointed.....or run it down the 1/4 and compare it to their previous result. It's just common sense really