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Everything posted by The Dan
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Spat Power Steering Belt With New Ross Tuffbond
The Dan replied to abr33's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Have you got the balancer tight all the way and what did you use to tighten it? -
It's about $2500 with the head off. No we designed our own custom camshafts. It's also important to consider valve clearance so not something I would recommend attempting at home
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For me.....none at all. I'm not suggesting you go RB26 head but there are no gains by going RB26 plenum and throttles. In fact, your tuner is going to have an extremely hard time making it run nicely. You have essentially lengthened the intake runner by another inch or more which creates all kinds of problems with air bouncing back from the valve head and transient throttle at lower revs. You are definitely better off with a Greddy or similar.
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Here's one I prepared earlier
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Yes. Getting a 26 head would save a lot of time and money
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The water galleries are offset from one another so the plates need to mismatch to create an angle. You cannot use a gasket in between the two halves as it will block the outer one They may be ok but from personal experience they are a complete f**k around to seal properly. Most people just use a tonne of silicon but that can block the water gallery and present its own problems They may have changed the design since I saw the last one though so put up some pics once you get it
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Say hello to water leaks
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The shift clip? Not in a new box. It shouldn't be that It's not a height issue for the clutch. What I meant was you might be getting too much throw in the fork and it over-engages the clutch and reapplies pressure. There is also the possibility of the gearbox being stuffed from the get go but you'd need to have it apart to check synchro clearance and the action of the shifter
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The car is fairly heavily modified. It has an aftermarket standalone ECU and has been fully reqired. Looks like a reasonable wiring job too. The car looks like its been looked after to some moderate standard but as you can see from my earlier posts it will need a tiny bit of TLC. If the turbo isn't blown, it makes more than 150psi compression on all 6 cylinders and it's not flowing oil out everywhere, I'd say you've got a reasonable looking car. Expect it would sell for somewhere around the 20-25k mark depending on what else it has. You can't see the cams so they cannot be identified. Get a compression test, oil pressure test and possibly pay a mechanic that is local to the car to drive it and give an opinion. Pick a specialist workshop nearby to the owner. Buying interstate isn't fun, but neither is buying a lemon if you don't check it out properly. I would suggest flying over to see the car but you may not know what you are looking for. Biggest problems after engine etc will be body damage from an accident so check for splitting in the wheel arches at the seam near the chassis rail. Failing that, what state is it in? If it's in QLD I could take a look for you if the guy wants to bring it in.
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I know this because I can see it in the picture. I've never seen the car before
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500-600hp at the wheels and not a penny more Oh and you'll need to replace the top radiator hose and do the rocker cover gaskets
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Doug builds clutches. Why not just go to Nissan for your seals and gasket? The clutch pedal will most likely be lighter than your existing clutch. They are almost lighter than a standard HD. You won't need a pivot ball. Just lube it properly
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Shit yeah, if it's a conversion that could definitely be your problem. Also those are notorious for overthrow of the clutch due to mismatch master/slave cylinders so you get massive throw on the slave causing the clutch fingers to invert on disengage. I know you are saying it's only in 4th but sometimes its one gear where you'll press the clutch further than normal. The other problem is 4th is driven straight down the main shaft so sometimes a slightly bent clutch plate or missing/incorrectly installed spigot will cause more problems in that gear than others and especially at high revs when it's critical for the box so slow down quickly for a smooth shift. For the fans reading at home, what is the history of the car? Why the new box and what's been done to the car?
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Drive Shaft Upgrades?
The Dan replied to NYTSKY's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I think its even possible to install the GTR centre into the existing R200 housing. Then all you need to do is bolt the GTR axles to the side and go do some launches. Internal widths etc are all the same from memory. I have a couple of diffs lying around the shop I could check but time is scarce for me during the day so you might have to wait a month for that info -
That is true. As a matter of fact, a customer who is new to button clutches is more likely to kill it with kindness rather than abuse. Riding it too much is a killer. I would ask Doug if he can make you a 6puk plate instead so its easier to drive and definitely go carbotic over ceramic. It's a little bitier but definitely handles the heat better
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That's bullshit he's lying. They definitely hold 450rwkw for a long time, 2 step limiter launches, nitrous enriched 2nd gear multiple clutch kicks, power skids and seasons of track work. I don't know why he would mislead you like that. I told Doug ages ago how f**king good they were
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Drive Shaft Upgrades?
The Dan replied to NYTSKY's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Are you snapping the half shafts or the driveshafts? If you are snapping the half shafts, modify the way you drive. We have guys that run low 9's on standard diffs. If you just roll up, limiter and launch then you are going to always break shit. If you roll up, handbrake on, preload the driveline, handbrake off and then limiter launch, you will probably save everything -
Drive Shaft Upgrades?
The Dan replied to NYTSKY's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
What were you doing at the time? -
Everything used in the NPC clutch is Exedy parts. Doug modifies them to suit the application though. Nissan Patrol hub, 250mm plate, 350Z 250mm pressure plate etc
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Yeah they're like me. I'm shit at building websites compared to building cars and all my savings are passed on to my customers so I don't have the money to buy a good website. Have you tried calling them? I'm pretty sure their phone works
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On a 2L 4cyl yes I would definitely stay with the GT35 or GTX35. It's only the larger displacement 6 cylinders that seem to benefit from them so much
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Take it somewhere to have it looked at before you have a serious accident
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GTR rods are strong. No the rod bolts aren't. For the $100 changeover in price it's stupid to even consider staying standard.