The Dan

So you add 0.2-0.6mm for every 0.005" they take off the head?

Looks like a Dr-Drift or similar. I don't think it's a Nistune and if it was, it would have to be a very early one

The LINK ECU plugin has had problems with factory ignitors due to the wasted spark and insufficient earth track inside the PTU to carry twice the load. Not sure if this is your problem but it would definitely be worth checking the ignition with a scope on the dyno. We've fixed a couple of GTR PTU's now but now we just wire in a replacement like a Microtech X6 or similar

You have a blown exhaust/turbo gasket

Ring Nissan And no they are nylon, have never seen a brass one

Send it to Nistune. It's $60. why would you bother stuffing around with it?

That can't be right surely? It's a single plate clutch. Can get the same thing from NPC with brand new parts instead of the JB second hand ones. NPC are only about $750-$800

The shuddering might be caused by the cracks in the second hand pressure plate

I can see a wheel being reinvented

It backfires when? Accell....Decell.....both? Cruise? cold start any different? does the problem ever change or seem different at any different driving condition?

The R34 GTR clutch is MUCH higher than the GTT clutch. I won't say it won't work but I would almost put 50c down that says the carrier will bottom out against the gearbox snout and it will destroy the clutch....IF the gearbox will even go on over the thing

When you turn the IGN on, do you get the loud sound from the electronic TCS motor on the crossover pipe go click-humm....click? If you aren't hearing that sound on every key on event (TCS self test of the electric throttle motor), then it's that. If it's not that, it could possibly be the secondary TPS located on the back side of the crossover pipe. Check power and signal to/from that and check primary TPS signal as well

If it's not a track car then I would just recommend replacing the standard sender unit. Available from nissan at about $200. You can buy cheaper gauges to do the job but it's certainly not going to last 15-20 years like the standard ones do

I am fully aware that temperature effects viscosity and therefore pressure but what I am saying is that with the pressure as low as he is reporting, there is something wrong. Hot oil and even sloppy tolerances usually see at least 20psi at idle. A car that normally runs 25-30psi hot idle (normal) will still only see a drop of about 4-5psi even if the temps go up by 40 degrees. He's looking at a 10-15psi drop from a normal reading

9 times out of 10 it's the sender unit

We use the GT101 sensor and get a mounting bracket made. Currently CRG are making them for us and we are going to try the Kulig Engineering ones. If you hit up R33_Racer on the forums here he could possibly give you more information on their kits as we are yet to use it but it's very small and compact. The ones we use from CRG are larger but so far very stable.

Fairly sure there is some sort of problem there. Oil temp and viscosity won't effect it that much at idle. The only time you ever see them below 20psi is if there is a problem. Even the standard oil pressure warning light comes on before 1bar. Get an oil test and stop driving it until you get the results back. If it's shagged, you will reduce the costs emmensely if you don't drive it around

I hate you

Because not all of them have the same timing control. When you have course mapping it kinda averages out, with fine mapping you can adjust for all changes and get a much more accurate power curve. But then you've got the inherent problems with the Nissan CAS that most people don't see. Once you fix those and have a more accurate timing curve, the engine naturally makes more power reliably and stays away from that area of detonation

That's what it's all about mate, picking the one that's right for your application, not always the one that has the most features. Especially if you're working on a budget and for others, they would need to consider who around them can tune the ECU they choose. Let us know how the Sprint goes

We regularly put these in cars making 300rwkw without issues. They can hold a lot more torque than we give them credit for and being a pull type clutch, they will hold more torque than their push type counterpart. We've tested them to 600rwhp, drag racing 9k GTR launches, track work for years. They will eventually wear out if abused or not driven correctly. It's usually the latter that gets most people on their first button clutch I would highly recommend the NPC Organic 10". Have fitted them to many cars. Get nothing but rave reviews from each person every time. Be careful over 400hp though, we don't often push them harder than that so how far they will go is still relatively unknown

Haha, every customer is *special* in their own way. We try to cater for everyone in that regard but sometimes when you see someone who just says they want it to be a burnout car and nothing else, you can tell in the back of your mind they will never use it for that at the end of the day....it will end up being their daily driver instead and they will complain about the ECU 'they' selected. It's always better to have a little bit of overkill for those ones. BTW are you still tuning over in the land of sand? How is/was it?

6 x 1.0 x 35

As it is ours also but when an ECU does everything better than the rest, why not promote it? I do what I feel necessary to ensure the brand I like gets a proper plugging. We have cars using every different type of ECU. Some we have removed to replace with others that do a better job. You are the one who mentioned having a piss on and burn party. I'm not sure why you are so scared of the V500/550. We get the absolute best results when using them