The Dan

Here are some more cars if you doubt what the wolf can do Trent. Not only drag cars, all of them are street registered cept the Celica. All the cars we have tuned by Sean at EFI drive as smooth as OEM tunes and go faster on the track than most.

Yeah maybe one day you'll learn how to tune them and they won't seem so bad. This one plus all the other 8 and 9 second cars they do don't seem to have a problem. If you want to have a pissing contest, I have no hesitation comparing notes on what your favourite ECU is capable of VS what the V550 can do. You made the wrong choice. The Autronic is still a better ECU

Or you could just buy a Wolf V550 and it does all that for you

We still give warranty within reason. No track work and run in and tune is done by us 100%. There is no reason to not be able to warrant an engine build if it's done properly but you can never account for owner abuse or misuse.

Why do you need a thermostat? Do you live in Tasmania or Antarctica?

Are you standing on your head?

You can (or at least I do) walk straight in their front doors and buy them also. Mention my name and I get more discount You can buy the sandwich plate from Performance Wholesale or even places like Autobarn/Repco with or without sensor holes. You get the PWR cooler with -8 lines fitted and you can use -8 hose to the fittings that will come with the sandwich plate OR you can go -10 lines but you will need to get 2 x 3/8 NPT > -10 male adaptors and 90 deg -10 fittings to come off the sandwich plate. So all up usually: PWR Cooler: $220-$250 (depending on size) Sandwich plate: $65-$85 Lines: 3 or 4m @ $30-$40/m Fittings: ~ $50-60 Apparently they tested the Setrab ones beside these and the PWR ones outperform them. We have seen the same

PWR For around $500 you can buy the larger 19 or 21 row coolers, lines, fittings and sandwich plate. We have tried Setrab, Greddy, HKS, JustJap and they all do 'ok' but the PWR one was the one that reduced oil temps the most. We see around 20-25 degree drops which is also equal to about 4-5 degree coolant temp drops on the track

The hardest part is knocking the bearing races in straight and then setting preload. I highly recommend freezing the races over night or over 2 nights so they go in easily and make sure you give the inside of the housing a light rub with sand paper to ensure no heated metal has raised or moved in the last 20 years. Don't take too much away though

Can be done in car, we do them all the time like that

Not sure why you would be weening people off them. They have a purpose and that's to make a Garrett turbo a direct bolt on. They will not flow as much as the housing that comes with the turbo unless its the 28 series. That's why a 3071 is suggested. It will provide very similar, if not the same, response and make the power he wants. The only turbo that under-performed on a sonic housing for us was the large GT3076R. It only did 275rwkw at 16psi and more boost just made it ping. We did a GT2860RS on an RB20 and it had identical response to the factory turbo and at 200rwkw on moderate boost, it also was a good performer. I have fitted dozens without a single issue but anyone trying to get good power (280rwkw +) should be considering other options anyway. Too many people want to eat cake these days

We use CRG creations. Should be able to do within 2 weeks but the difference is he will do custom work. That's why we use him, whenever we get something a little different it's never a problem

Normally I would go the Z because it won't stop at 560-600 but the 3788 will spool faster. If you don't want any more than 560-580 then the 3788 is perfect, after that, the Z is still comparable for response with the 0.99 housing on the 3788

Sounds like a lot of effort

http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/739548_dash_RB20_dash_25/Nissan-RB20_or_25-Ball-Bearing-Upgrade/pd.php That's about all I can find on the Sonic website as far as what's got a housing but we have done quite a few upgrades now with really good results. Genuine Garrett turbo and the housing fitted is a 0.75 A/R. It can be fitted to anything from a T28 up to a GT3076R. Then you can have the standard RB25 comp cover machined to suit the front so it's a direct bolt on arrangement but we always pick a size larger when we do this because the smaller comp cover does effect airflow a little bit. All the standard piping, dump and manifold all fits back up to the original place. One of those would get you 260rwkw and is complete bolt on except for the water line around the back of the head needs to be cut to suit the line kit you get Then there is option B which is to leave the 3071 comp cover on it and do your pipework as planned. I think the last one we did was 275rwkw at 18psi but may have been 16psi I cannot remember right now

The Sonic turbine housing will outflow the OP6 housing

Quick answer is no I may be wrong but a 2871 is going to only just squeeze out 250rwkw, then you're going to choke it with an OP6 housing? Why not just get a GT3071R with the Sonic housing - Happy days

Yeah I know how they work, I'm just saying that it's a rather poor idea IMO. If it is correctly machined and shrunk fit then it will never need grub screws. They have just copied the JUN collar I imagine

I'd find out why you are blowing turbos first. It's certainly not normal to shit them that easily

We've never needed to go anywhere else but Chilton Engineering Tighe make the collar and Chilton shrink them to the crank with precision. Supplied and fitted for under $250 Don't know why anybody would buy a collar that has grub screws. Seems like a dodgey way to secure it. Like the shift knobs always coming loose

And bingo was his nameo

Question: Can I bolt an R33 GTR clutch to my R34 GTT RB25DET Neo and will it work? Answer: Yes Secondary answer: They are not the same. Even though Exedy may now sell them under the same part number, they have different release properties due to cylinder differences and the fact the GTR has a clutch booster, so you may get a shit pedal feel. Most people adjust it out but there is a tradeoff.. I will make a 50c bet that says the $500 pull type twin plate makes a better boat anchor than it does a clutch that will serve you well. Rebuild it - IF it's possible to and the damage is not too severe AND you have just outlayed $1300-$1400 when you could have just bought a proper single to do the job that will feel nicer, drive better and will be BRAND NEW for half the price. I understand where you are coming from though, but out of every customer that walks in my door and presents me with a second hand part to fit, they have ended up needing to pay more than what it would have cost to do it properly the first time. If you still want to get the secondhand twin plate, let me know coz I have a few old rear main seals and an alright looking spigot bush laying around somewhere.

Damn it I missed Alf. Flamin mongrels everywhere

GT35R on 25 pound of boost and E85 is going to see 500 hp. On the subject of buying a stuffed clutch - do you know what you are looking at? How are you going to tell if the plates are worn out or if they have X life left? Then even if you know that, are you going to be able to tell if there is spline damage, a warped hub or a fragmenting friction material? Just because something is is $2000 new and you can get it for $500, doesn't mean it's going to work well and the fact that it's 1/4 of the price would usually tell me that it needs rebuilding.....which is going to set you back about $800-900 anyway.