The Dan

Yes they bolt straight in, yes you get a small gain in midrange torque. Very small. Downside is damage to lifters at high rpm due to the ramp rate on a hydraulic lifter Many people have done it. I haven't heard anyone complain. I have heard a lot of people advise against it but they are usually just repeating what they have heard. Proper hydraulic cams are definitely better

Blown turbo gasket

I would say someone has left out the washer that resides behind the balancer or they haven't got the balancer all the way down tight

I'd say the noise will be the turbo flange gasket for the turbine inlet. Your turbo is most likely fine.

Sounds like AFM damage

Yep

Try gearbox fluid, but also where does the clutch disengage/re-engage? Right at the very top or near the floor? If it's only between two gears then its going to be most likely a synchro problem - whether that be oil related or material related, but sometimes a bad adjustment of the master cylinder can cause overthrow on the slave which inverts the fingers slightly on the clutch. More common in conversions to Silvias though so probably less likely for you

They do touch. Can you push the fork so the bearing moves away from the fingers about 10-20mm?

I cannot see how it would work. Their instructions tell you to take the oil from a gallery that has a low pressure feed. The gear needs to be fed with high pressure, not low.

Good oil, regular changes (5000km), regular other maintenance, good fuel, good tuner, 300rwkw = piece of piss easy

EFI Performance (07) 3801 8075 Best tuner in the state. People drive from Townsville and the Central Coast to get tuned by Sean

How many engines have you built before and what measuring equipment do you own? Not saying don't try it, just make sure you accept the consequences if it turns pear shaped. We see 600hp at the wheels on standard engines all the time reliably. Nissan did a pretty good job of it. It's the aussie tuners that f**k it up

When I said move it by hand I didn't mean you could grab it with your fingers and turn it lol. Cam gear on, belt on.........turn the bolt in the centre that holds it on the cam until it's tight. When you turn it further to tension the bolt, the camshaft will turn but the outer gear part will stay still. You are looking for the wrong problem. The gear will be fine on both

Yeah. I understand you probably won't be using it due to a dry sump setup but for the regular folk it would be interesting to know how deep they need to go into that gallery wall

What about the oil gallery. How much more before you bust through into the hole?

There is no way that 240SX belongs to that dyno graph. Have a look at the way it ramps up compared to the power line. There is also a very very very slim chance you would ever get a real 530rwhp from a GTX3076 and not on 26PSI. On 20PSI the GT3076R is lucky to crack 300RWKW. 6psi more and a 10% more efficient compressor does no equal 130hp at the wheels. I'm betting methanol or nitrous help if the figure is right

LOL, can someone please tell you? It's like the 4th thread you've started to ask the same question and numerous people have told you. You will end up having problems if you rebuild it with 40thou bearings and you will have problems if you didn't have the crank rehardened.

I reckon you've been told already You're asking for trouble going 40 thou. Are you getting the crank rehardened?

That is correct 50nm

You can't really modify the stock manifold for external gate. It doesn't work effectively as the manifold is split into 2 groups of 3 cyl. Best bet is to have the wastegate coming off the turbine housing. We do this all the time and the results are great

Or you could just tighten them to 50nm

If you put the cap on the wrong side and the top half overlaps the bottom half on the leading side, it will start removing material from the cap as it rotates. The removed material will just stay there, stuck in the middle and continuing to wear the cam away like a big clump of camf*ck

It is weird. As I said earlier, it's not the measurements we would normally see with that combination. New crankshaft with HX bearings I would expect to see 0.003" clearance, not 0.0024" As for rings, you should definitely consider a larger gap for the second ring. I understand the manual says certain things and yes, the clearance of 0.0024" on these engines is perfectly fine. What I am getting at is that it's not consistent with what I'm used to seeing (and yes I have used many new cranks and blocks before) There are still certain general rules that should be adhered to when building your engine. One of them is second ring gap should be larger than top ring gap

You've already been told

0.040"? whory sheet