The Dan

The number is fine but the clearance doesn't look right for what you would expect from a HX bearing. They are 0.001" extra clearance. I would have thought you'd see a clearance of 0.076mm (0.003") at least on a HX bearing from mid tolerance crank etc. Why is it tight?

It's not always a bleeding issue. It can also be an adjustment issue, master cylinder problem, clutch or hardware problem.

Everything you said then is pretty much incorrect. I doubt you can buy anything but 'copy' injectors for that price, R32 are 11mm, not 14mm. Spend good money, get a good injector. If you buy cheap injectors, expect engine failure

Oh and I forgot, if you just want to muffle the sound, try heading down to clark rubber and picking up some filter foam. Cable tie some of that shit around the BOV outlet and the sound will be cut in half at least. You can also argue that the air is filtered but I spent half an hour arguing with a coppa on that one and he ended up fining me anyway so at your own risk

That can be tuned around. It's more to do with the fact that for a completely legal ventilation system, your engine breathers should be venting into your intake - this = oil fume escaping from your BOV when it opens. If you say well, just run breathers on your catch can.....this is equally illegal This man....he knows You may be right, 100% of the rally championship entry line should be called immediately. Quick while you still can....tell them all they are gay! And recirculation valve is just another name for a BOV and vice versa - yes they do different things/operate slightly differently but the principal is exactly the same and they are there for a reason. While you're calling the WRC, make sure you let Nissan, Toyota and the countless other manufacturers know of their homosexuality They are better on ceramic turbine, yes. But they do protect the turbo from large amounts of reversion which stresses a turbo no matter what its made of. Heat damages ceramic turbos more than not having a BOV installed. I think we can all agree on one thing though.... PSSSSSSHHHHTTTT!!!! TUTUTUTUTUTUTUTUTUTUTUTUTUTUTTTTUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU

The only fail you will experience is if you don't get it towed there. If you don't know what you're doing with the tune, you could make your tuner's job harder later if you've changed something he's not expecting. If you feel the need to learn new things, accept everything that comes with it, including paying double

Agreed. Just change the 1.5mm one out for a standard gasket, weld the wastegate shut, turn the fuel pressure up, set the injectors to 100% and hold it flat.....good times

U should wait until the guy with the dyno has looked at it before you go out and start throwing parts at it. Don't listen to nonsense about R+R, it's the inexperienced mans way of diagnosing every miss fire or hesitation. Your problem sounds like its timing related due to the description you gave about the induction sound etc so AFM would be the most likely starting point but it all depends on how good your description is. Quite possibly a fuel pump also

It should be. Why would you not want your cake and eat it too? Noel makes 24psi by about 3500rpm from memory and he doesn't even have the VCT back on it yet. Correct turbo selection and head setup and you can make 550-600hp and still have good response

This is exhaust tubing. You regular stainless tube sales company that supplies to the automotive and/or light engineering or building industry is not going to be that technical on the grade to the point that you are explaining. 321 contains titanium but it would never be found at places like Tubesales or Right Price Exhausts. The difference between 304 and 316 is the inclusion of Moly in the 316. Their strength is much the same and they have similar corrosion resistance but when you subject 316 to hot and cold cycling close to the melting point, eventually the 316 becomes more brittle than than 304. 321 and 304H are not really used for exhausts. There is no point and they cost more. 304 wouldn't be used in heat exchangers because it is less resistance to corrosion than 321 so with steam, heat or presence of minerals and salts, it will withstand better. Most of the above has nothing really to do with Joey's exhaust, however. The tube will be 304 or 316 (most likely the latter) and the specific details of the composition of the metal aren't going to change much for him between exhaust shops/fabricators

And impressive quality job too mate.

As with most of these things, they have different grades for a reason. A higher number doesn't mean it is better for the job. 304 is typically used in exhaust systems due to the fact it is more malleable and the higher grades like 316 and 321 will polish much shinier but are more brittle so are prone to cracking in high heat situations

Not sure why. We have them control boost perfectly on everything from GT3076's running 1 or even 2 bar up to GT4508's running 3.5 bar. All on 2.5 and 3L 6 cyl engines It's good that you got your setup working properly but I don't know that the fact the gate pipe was welded off the housing was the cause.

I've done dozens of twin turbo installs and a turbo has never fallen off before

I've got 3 we've done here if you want photos

Weld wastegate pipe onto turbine housing and have no gate pipe off the manifold. Better response, more power, end story

Pretty sure EFI's CA18 S13 ran BP98 and 56psi boost. I could be wrong though. They were doing pump/meth stuff around that time as well.

Oh you like that!?

If you correct fuel pressure, power to injectors and pulse, power to coils and spark but the injectors are not ticking when you turn the CAS over by hand with IGN on, then yes, most likely cause is seized. give it a little tappy, tap tap taparoo..... or just replace them yes

If you have 12V at the injectors and they are getting a pulse (tested with noid light - available at any repco or autobarn for about $10-$15) but the injector is not delivering fuel, the internal solenoid is seized. Now this is a tricky one - not difficult in practice but a difficult scenario for me to offer advice on - you can lightly tap the body with a screwdriver and hammer to try to activate them (get a friend to rotate the CAS while you do so it is trying to fire at least). Sometimes the jolt will free them up. If they free up, I HIGHLY recommend taking them out and having them cleaned and flow tested. Injectors that have sat for months will usually always seize unless stored in lubricant or fuel (bad). If you tap them, they start working and you can drive your car....I take no responsibility for melted pistons because you didn't take them somewhere to have them cleaned and checked. The fact they were seized means they cannot be trusted.

Torque depends on the lube used. If you use the ultra torque lube, it is about 10lb different to the super moly arp lube and different again for engine oil lube. ARP website has the information you need, if you can't find it, ring Performance wholesale or Rocket Industries, tell them the application and they will tell you what torque ARP suggest in their kits. Every one I have done has been 70ft/lbs using the super moly and 65 using the ultra torque lube.

As long as a competent machine shop has done the balancing then no it will not matter. The weight of the crankshaft compared to the weight of the collar is something like 100:1. The flats are opposite and the outside diameter of the collar is so close to the centre axis that it would not be able to be measured accurately by any conventional small/medium engineer ( I say this because technically everything can be measured but how much do you want to pay ) Short answer: Hurry up and get your engine to skid status

I must have read the email reply from Motul incorrectly but I'm pretty sure they explained why all oils aren't compatible regardless of service intervals unless you change it at EVERY meet. But that's kinda silly unless you are running an extreme dedicated super car with full sponsorship

Yeah it runs very well. Noticeably more power (~10-15hp more at wheels but I'll have to dyno it to see exactly - it used to be 74.2hp at the front wheels prior on 95) The only reason I can run it is because I can manually advance the timing on the distributor. I haven't even bothered checking how far I advanced it. I started out with approx 50% mix of E85 and E10 around 6 months ago. 20L of E85 and 25L of E10. Obviously its a 45L tank. This is 45L to the absolute brim from cutting out pulling into the driveway of the fuel station. Once the mix was in I wound the dizzy all the way forward, got in, floored it - pinging. Stopped, got out, turned the dizzy back a little, got in, floored it - pinging....rinse and repeat about 4 times until it stopped pinging audibly (I love these NA shitboxes) I used to get 600km to a tank on 95 - 650 if I babied it around like Ma Kettle. I now get 600km to a tank and 650 if I baby it around like Ma Kettle. A/C on constantly I get 550km on both. There was no economy drop changing to E85 for me. So eventually I started thinking about running a higher percentage. I would do a 70/30 mix occasionally and it ran well, no change to economy either. Yesterday I put in 36L on top of 20L of 95 I put in the tank 2 days prior. (yes this doesn't work out but 2 days of driving used 11L) The interesting thing was that on the 95 it pinged hard at any more than 50% load. I know the timing is advanced but back in the early 50/50 days I put 95 in a couple of times and it didn't ping and if it did, it was only on steep hills in a gear that was too high. Now it was pinging hard and using a LOT more fuel. 90km used 11L I have been speaking to the E85 Guru tuner Sean at EFI and we both think that possibly the Mirage Death Ray might have adaptive tuning but I haven't bothered to look it up. So anyway, now it has about 80/20 and runs even better again. First 80km seems to be consistent with previous 50/50 economy. Power is still there but seems a tiny bit more (could be placebo) Next week I will be putting the wideband on it with 100% mix and see how it goes. It's about $15-20 per tank cheaper and if it doesn't required any more fuel to get me the same distance, I say up yours to the fuel bowser I will be fitting our hydrogen setup to it later on this year so hoping to get 1000km to a tank once that goes on and having the greenest Mirage in the world. Oh and the engine is a 4G15 (1.5L mulitpoint) with 350,000 kms on it