The Dan

There is no use over-complicating the issue. It's practically a dead stock 1JZ....the likelihood of glazed bores is so remote, it is literally the last thing you would consider. That and the fact it would smoke all the time if that were the case. You definitely need to do a leakdown test before you can make any assumptions. It could even be a worn valve guide causing the valve to seat incorrectly AND make the stem seals leak - also not likely on a single cylinder Remember when you are doing the test to have it at TDC Comp on that cylinder

Bent fork or incorrect mounting. Not lubricated correctly on the ball vs fork. Clutch spring too heavy Slave cylinder pushrod too long due to someone changing its length

The 3L block has its flaws. Yes they are ok to make HP but the 26 still does it better. If he has a Tomei stroker going in then he is better off with the N1 block anyway because it's ability to be further machined and still retaining strength. Then theres also the fact the Tomei crank will spin up faster due to its reduced weight, better counterweighted for the aftermarket rotating assembly and able to rev much higher without risk of crank flex or movement. When everyone else is changing gears at 8k, he will be flipping the bird while he hangs on at 10k I would say let the guy do as he pleases, he's not doing anything wrong.

The more I think about this, the old guy definitely didn't know much about the car and considering he said its a Suzuki, he may have been looking at the Skyline S on the bonnet or whatever. It could be one of those 2 tone blue/grey R33 Skylines

Hey guys, I received a call just now about a car that looks to be abandoned. It has my ERD sticker on the back and is a Blue Suzuki hatch/square backed thing (old guy wouldn't tell me a model) It is parked on the wrong side of the road facing the wrong way in an awkward position. If you know who owns it or you own it as your daily, please call me on 3807 2789 or 0407 111 229 and I'll tell you where it is located.

Check the oil level. If it's not low on oil or the oil is in bad shape, then yes, throwout bearing is the most likely cause

That would be true if the bottom end wasn't already together

If you read that link from Eagle they say they do not use an off-the-shelf ARP fastener. I'd be going off the rod manufacturers specifications. There are plenty of good machinists up here Dave, but it's simply not a job that just anyone with a line borer can do. The length of the block prohibits most people from doing an accurate job and even though it may look accurate, most of the time they are not. I have never encountered a block that needed line boring but I'm sure they exist. I've seen some really nasty examples done by some well known engine shops. Girdle bolted down flat, tunnel was round but not straight on one side. I only picked it up because I use a straight edge every time. It was straight on the main length but not the horizontal, and only on one side. You couldn't see it by eye but the girdle would have walked around on the block and caused a myriad of other issues. 0.001 is a lot of tunnel distortion. Are you sure you don't mean 0.0001? We commonly see 0.0001-0.0003 (in extreme cases). Yes an open hole jig was used to determine stretch. We spent a considerable amount of time working out what worked and what didn't and what was acceptable and not.

They may need to be 40 or 43ft/lbs. Check the link below and confirm which bolt you have I haven't used an Eagle in a while so they may have changed them They do not use standard off the shelf ARP bolts so don't go off ARP's recommendation and DO NOT only do them down to 50 Nm as the standard ones are http://www.eaglerod.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=25

Firstly its not hacking the studs. This procedure was actually recommended by ARP themselves when I called them about it. Yes I did ring America and yes I am that pedantic about my engines. Drilling is possible but risk of damage to existing thread is high so it is actually the LAST thing you should attempt and certainly not for someone who lacks the experience to carry the job out correctly As above, ONLY capable people should do it this way and even then, there is a reason Nissan didn't make the thread go deeper. The oil feed gallery actually runs within 5mm of the base of that hole on one side. Drill too deep and you bust into the oil gallery. Sure this may not be an issue because the bolt will cover the hole anyway but what if you drill through and a tiny bit of swarf hangs on? Just needs a small amount of oil to wash it through of maybe some engine vibration or whatever. I don't think it is the ideal way but if you really know what you are doing, you still need to be extremely careful Also not a good idea. There are nowhere near enough competent engineers who can accurately tunnel bore a straight 6 block. The fact is it doesn't need to be tunnel bored, none of the engines I have built have ever needed to be tunnel bored. The torque specified by ARP is not specified because they know the exact torque they want, its because they want a certain amount of stretch in the bolt so that the bolt load is correct. We have checked bolt stretch at the 60ft/lb mark and the stretch is still within ARP specs and also confirmed by them to the point where they are considering changing their instructions based on our findings and the fact they also agree tunnel boring is not ideal You should find that Eagle rods will be 44-45ft/lbs (they used to be 44 but changed to 45 later). You can actually find the information on their website if you don't have the spec sheet with you.

1. 0 aux outputs 2. inability to do wheel speed over boost 3. inability to do windscreen wiper speed over wheel speed over TPS over engine temp 4. inability to do multi level rev limit 5. it's not red

I think you meant to say the 26 head bolts/studs? But yes, direct bolt up using an RB26 head gasket as long as you knock a 6mm blocker into the VCT oil gallery at the front of the head or weld it up and have the head refaced

Definitely better to have the 3 inch. Depends on how far away the exhaust shop is but I always recommend getting it towed. Imagine all the shit you have just gone through and then get pulled over half way there and they red card you. I doubt an exhaust shop would have a bolt on rear system for an R32. The one you have is fine, just get it modified to suit what you have or get another cat put in and have the flanges welded on to suit the way it needs to be clocked

Does the rear section bolt up to it? Being level isn't mandatory. As long as the rear section bolts up to it and doesn't foul on the floor or whatever, it's fine

The cat should be flat on the wide section. The flanges are rotated from the horizontal plane. Have you got it the right way around? Maybe back to front? Look for a sensor hole/bung in the side, it goes towards the rear of the cat and closest to the passenger door.....if that makes sense

ok so are you saying that if you were to look under the car with it on the ground, the cat points DOWN towards the ground at a 45 degree angle? or the bolts are just positioned so that you have to twist the rear section to make the flanges meet? Sorry this is taking a while to work out. Mechanic braille takes time lol

Ok well that makes sense. You wouldn't have any of the banjo bolts as the TR43 is different. The dump/front pipe and cat SHOULD be all correct. Get the rear section modified by an exhaust shop, it will be easy for them to do.

You should be careful putting that dump pipe across the terminals of a battery

Ok well the turbo oil feed on both the turbo AND the block are 12 x 1.25 If you have the front pipe bolts tight (3 of them) back them off a little and you will be able to swing it 5 or 10 degrees. The cat on all skylines should have parallel flanges meaning if you stand it on the ground on its 2 bolt flange, the opposing flange should be parallel to the ground. If the cat flanges are not parallel then the cat is wrong. The front pipe should kick in towards the tailshaft right before the end, just like in the picture in that link I provided. If its the stock front pipe then this won't be an issue. I would say it is possible the rear section was modified at some stage and this may be why it doesn't fit. What exactly are you doing anyway? Are you converting to turbo or just putting on another turbo?

It's also possible the front pipe is wrong. If you are trying to put on a one piece front/dump pipe this may not fit. I haven't tried before but I think the angle is different there. Dump pipe is definitely the same though although this would suggest otherwise: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17316&cat=276&page=1

There is no confusion. The water feed closest to the cylinder head is 14 x 1.5. The one that's an inch below it is actually the factory water drain to completely drain water from the engine. It has a bolt blocking it from factory. I have 3 RB20 blocks no more than 50 meters from me right now, another 2 at the workshop and at least half a dozen other RB blocks there as well. They are ALL 14 x 1.5 there. IF you have some kind of freak engine that was a one off build from Nissan and it's smaller than 14, it is going to be 12 x 1.25. Nissan didn't get very creative with bolt sizes The factory nissan turbo is the same for RB20 and RB25 including the R34 Neo turbo. They all run the same size water feed and return. Are you sure you are looking at the same one? and what happened to the banjo bolts that were attached to the turbo in the first place? The RB25 dump pipe is a direct swap for the RB20 one as the physical dimensions of the turbo are the same in that regard. The cat may or may not fit because it has possibly been modified at some stage or the rear section has been modified maybe? But it should fit anyway. The cheap ones usually have trouble

That's an easy fix. Ring NPC and order a new clutch and stop stuffing around with second hand shit that won't last as long. Their number is 07 32779403. Once you have ordered your clutch you may sit back and wait for it to arrive. Maybe even have a Piña colada and feel good about the fact you won't have to worry about anything except what tyres to buy next because the upcoming skids will be awesome. I recommend Federal

It won't help anyone because you have been given the sizes. I'm not sure where you are going wrong but life was not meant to be this difficult. Now, either you are doing something wrong.....or you have an aftermarket turbo or something. The engine is standard and that cannot change. The water feed below exhaust runner 6 is 14 x 1.5. How about take a photo of what you have and I will tell you what it is

Exactly. All our high end stuff runs ONLY pump E85 (Caltex Eflex) 600-1000hp and no issues. The price some of these companies are asking for drum E85 is just stupid

Hazah Small one for the block is 14 x 1.5 and large one for factory turbo is 18 x 1.5. I measured both on my thread gauge