The Dan

No they won't know. I'll head down to my bolt bucket now and grab one and measure it for you.

The block side should be 14x1.5 and the turbo itself should be 18x1.5 as zebra said 19mm spanner fits the block one and 22 or 24 on the turbo one.

Why not spend the extra $700 and get a Wolf V500 plugin. It can do everything you want including control your auto so you don't need to go piggyback.

We thought the same thing when we were trying to set up fuel and oil pressure feedback to the ECU/Dash and to be honest we spent quite a lot of time trying to find a cheaper fuel pressure sender. The sender in question is made by honeywell. You could try searching overseas (America) for this but I think you'll come to the same conclusion we did and that it's better to just buy the sender they provide. There may be another sender available somewhere but we couldn't find it. Someone on here might know though

Your best two options would be: Wolf V4X Haltech Platinum 500 The wolf has more programmable outputs (6 from memory) and a 3bar map sensor whereas the 500 has a 1.5bar map sensor and 2 programmable outputs so it depends on how many inputs/outputs you want and if boost is involved and how much Both good units and will do what you need very well. I wouldn't use any of the other units if those two are in your list If you had to pick a cheaper option: Emanage Stinger (although recently I found these to have a really weird trigger angle lock at 60deg which can present problems)

How the hell can you get away with writing shit like that on public forum about a ECU like Haltech? Everything I have written is fact. From direct experience with multiple units. This is not a once off problem we have had to deal with Their old 90's tech ecu's might have been crap, sure but they worked and performed well with the competition at the time. Yes this may be the case but like EVERY ecu, they can and do have issues. It's the fact that Haltech choose to ignore them and the customers that have purchased their units that drives these types of conversations How is it haltech's fault that you are too cheap to buy a up to date ecu to run your late model engines? then go and ask them for help with something they probably know has issues and cannot and will not fix because there is a whole new range of ecu's available designed to fix the previous issues? We bought the ECU and 6 months later they released the platinum range. When we told them of the issue and all the other issues they had they told us they no longer supported that model and to buy a platinum The new haltech's are great, sure I am biased towards the Vipec and will use one before a Haltech any day of the week but when i do use the haltechs they do the job very well. Give the guys a break, there are plenty of worse ecu's out there if your going to give them slack at least make it about something worth while with their latest products at least then they will make a effort to fix it ?? sorry for the rant but Haltech have come a real long way, Just like when the Vipec / G4 came to Link... Every company moves forwards to bigger and better things. Yes you are right, I should give them a break. Their new units are apparently much better, they have fixed all of the issues we know of that existed in their old units. I hope they move forward as well as every other manufacturer out there because at the end of the day they are all striving to give us better technology. BUT, if they continue to palm off their customers when support is called for instead of telling them 'speak to a dealer' (when the dealers know stuff all about them as well) and when proof of a problem is provided, just tell people 'sorry, we no longer support that model' (which was being sold as the current model only 1-2 months prior), then they will continue to get a bad rap. So I will be giving them a break......so they can think about how they are going to send me another ECU due to the fact they destroyed a working unit on us and handed it back. My answer will be: 'Express post will be just fine '

Yes, we have had SOME of the back ones foul in the lump in the back of the sump so either relieve the sump or remove about 2-3mm from the back 2 as well and yeah, the middle one is explained above

As for trimming, you should only need to trim the one that sits under the driveshaft tube. Yes you will need to otherwise the sump won't go on if you are still using 4wd. It is ok to cut it but do so carefully with a grinder (very thin blade and make sure you cut it slowly so as to not introduce much heat into the stud). Clean the thread in the block with a tap to make sure it is easy to remove and refit or with your grinder cut a slit in the top so you can use a screw driver to install the stud

The torque ARP specify is 70 ft/lbs but you will probably find that the tunnel will become small by about .0002 so we suggest only torquing them to 60 ft/lbs as it still meets the stretch requirements they specify but doesn't pull the tunnel out of round. It doesn't happen all the time but enough times to matter

The Z32 AFM will have a brown/orange coloured sticker. The green sticker is an R32 GTST or R33 GTST s1 AFM. All of this is well documented in the sticky thread inside Forced Induction on FAQ The Z32 AFM also has 6 pins as opposed to the regular skyline 3 and 4 pin AFM's

Never seen that problem in dozens of units we have used. Maybe it was a once off? I'm sure when you called Robbie it would have all been sorted out and the problem found though. The support is seriously second to none. The problem with Haltech is they won't help anyone and when you have a genuine problem and even show them all the scope patterns to prove it, they just palm you off. At least their Platinum range has been upgraded to 2008 technology. LMAO, gold!

The chemical test is called a Teekay test. Only accurate if there are visible bubbles coming up to the filler neck as it senses hydrocarbons and changes the dye colour.

You will find that the stockies are actually 225/50/16 so no, these will not be suitable for any skyline that wants to remain road legal Maybe $10 a piece to a drifter?

*double post*

If you ring whiteline you should find that you can get them to make you a bar of any type or thickness you want. Of course there is a wait time but they are just like King springs in that they do custom orders all the time. We had to wait 2-3 weeks for our custom spring order and recently had some not-on-the-shelf whiteline bars produced for us as well. Might be worth looking in to

I also forgot there could be another issue and that is if you have installed the wrong pivot ball or it's too long. You will actually hold the bearing against the clutch which could engage it. Then no matter how much you adjust that pushrod it won't fix it. R32 and R33 pivot balls are different and possibly S1 R33 is different to S2 but I have never checked so you'll have to do your own research on that

Yes that's the one, and no rebleed is necessary

Adjust the pushrod on the master cylinder. It has been adjusted over time to compensate for either a worn out clutch or the broken pivot ball

It has nothing to do with the ease of tuning. They are really easy to tune. It has to do with losing map data, losing connection mid tune when you are doing power runs and then there's the whole transient throttle miss that you will not be able to get rid of. I'll save you some time and tell you that it's due to coil charge time. Coil charge time will drop from about 3ms to 0.2ms when you go from 2% throttle to 100% or even 50% throttle. You'll keep adding fuel into the throttle pump settings in the hope to 'mask' it, and you may, but it will still miss every time. Haltech refuse to fix it as it is now an 'unsupported model' There is also another one we had that did a 200% enrichment just randomly and needed to be fixed in the map - yes you read correctly - it changed its own settings. Then it shat a map sensor a week later.

If it was just a freshen-up I would offer myself but if you need a complete overhaul I always use Springwood Auto Electrics. I know its prob a 30 min drive for you but they are definitely a no-bs operation

Whatever you do, don't send it to Haltech for them to look. They'll drill a hole in it and send it back saying it is an unsupported model and then you're stuck with a unit that no longer works at all. I will assume but shouldn't on the following: You have an RPM signal while cranking? ( I know you probably do considering you are getting pulse and spark ) You have checked the timing with a light for firing sequence? I'm not sure on the trigger number but I do know it is obvious when you read the description I think they give when you select it. Can you post a screen shot of the trigger selection? I can't run Halwin on Win7

You will find that those 'oil drains' work better as gas relief, rather than oil drains. Pretty sure its been widely covered too

Why are you selling it? Also brand new dump-front pipes are $150. What is so special about yours?

+1 for Paul I usually recommend only two workshops for engine building If it's south of Coffs Harbour, Paul from RedR Racing If it's north of Coffs Harbour, Dan from ERD