The Dan

Clutch should be bed in - always. Button clutches, not so much - they kinda find their own way if you know what I mean If you do 6k launches and clutch kick on the first half a dozen drives then expect shit to be problematic. In fact, clutch kick at all and you need to be slapped. I have never seen the use in clutch kicking, get more power

Yeah but you have an awesome clutch

No, it takes months of rich running to abrasively smooth a bore - or during ring bed-in. Valve leakage is not always a problem, the valve rarely seats in the same place twice in half a dozen rotations If your CAS is wrong, it will also not be injecting fuel or sparking so it's not possible to be overfueling the bore. Have you checked for injector pulse and spark and had a result. I know I like to assume you do actually have it when you say you tested for it but I have been surprised before

95% sure it's a complete swap. All 4 wires have to be changed as if the plug was upside down Maybe start with that and if it doesn't work I'll actually take the time to get you a pinout. Changing wires takes about 1 minute. That includes 30 seconds of beer drinking

R34 CAS wires back to front. You'll need to swap them ass about - same as CA18 if I remember correctly

You'll need to actually make sure the injectors or coils are not firing, don't trust the ECU to give you that information If you are cranking and see an RPM signal in the ECU software then the CAS should be fine. If you don't see RPM, then you need to check for 12V at the CAS, if it has 12V there, then check the signal wires for continuity and also signal back to the ECU. Use a noid light to check injector pulse and there are a number of threads on here explaining how to do spark checks but a HEI spark tester works well. If you have a CAS signal and RPM, then you need to check power to injectors and coils. Start with all that

The EPROM isn't programmable from factory so you will need to install a Nistune or similar

0.040? I hope you have a good tuner and great fuel

They could be NA if that crown is raised. But that won't matter. What are you using it for?

That's not series 2 The one you just described is Series 3 or R34 CAS

yeah stockers

Photo?

They all have half moons inside them. Do you have the sensor with the plastic top or the aluminium top?

Tech night? Link me

^^This Fix it so it reads correctly. That sounds awfully similar to - "I assume it does"

When I was 22 I got a quote for $5600/year for full comp. Although I have a fairly colourful traffic history

LOL you beat me to it!!

Yes. I don't know the exact numbers off the top of my head but ALSD R33 should be around a 3.9 and the Mech R32/R33 should be a 4.1

Yeah unfortunately there is no way to tell for certain for anyone here but if you get in contact with WearCheck Australia you can take an oil sample fro your next change and have it tested. If you get high levels of copper or lead showing up, then you know the answer. The test kit costs about $40

Are you getting the tracker fitted by Chris? If so let us know how much coz I'm getting one as soon as its running as well

Have you checked for power at the solenoid up the front? Also, you can turn VCT on at idle and it should change revs noticably. Use the nistune software to do this, its an easy test

Almost identical setup we made 485hp at the wheels and I think it was hitting 19psi (max boost) at about 110-115km/h Definitely some small improvements to be made but looks like you got the AFR's pretty spot on. Not bad for a street tune considering you have no idea what the torque is doing. It might accept more timing in the top end? Anyway still a decent result considering

Not to mention the street cred

That's a little bit silly mate You should be using a motorised pallet jack to move objects like that

How sure are you about ratios? I've seen 3.9 and 4.11 in those diffs