The Dan

Doesn't the 33 Vspec have Active LSD? Also pretty sure the ratio changes but I could be wrong. If the ratio changes, you need to replace the front diff also

Yeah I was into the same stuff, I would have been too scared my old man would backhand me if I was caught doing shit like that. WTF are the parents doing these days?

Rule #1 - If your machinist wants to line bore an RB block, go to another machinist Rule #2 - Always ask on here if you aren't sure of something that is being done. A lot of old mechs at hand and a lot more track racers around that can give you solid advice. I try not to give advice on forums about how to tune your car or other things where experience is really a necessity, or any other job that might require special tools or is at an experience level higher than backyard. It's too easy for someone to f**k it up and blame the guy giving the advice. It's good that you got it sorted but don't lose faith in the professionals, just make sure you are using the right ones. Depending on where you are, a lot of people here can recommend no BS places for you to go to

For anyone reading this and also to the original poster, speak to Chris from Audio Express. They can fit a decent quality TK104 GPS Tracker. They aren't expensive and you will be able to find the car even up to 60 days after the car has had its battery removed. You can ever send an SMS to the device to tell it to shut off the fuel pump, sound horn, lock/unlock doors all via sms.

Yes you can do it, no it's not a wise move. Not only will you reduce the hp driven to the wheels to give you acceleration, but you will destroy the transfer case from binding the clutchpacks too much

ok, well nothing wrong with having a crack at it yourself if you have the right gear. Just doing run in numbers is easy as so if you take small steps and make small changes as well as save as you go, you can't really go wrong. Even block tuning will make it run ok so just select 2-3 row sections and make them slighty richer or leaner where you think it needs more or less. You will quickly feel the changes you make but don't go too far obviously as it can be risky when you have no experience. I would avoid going over 4k until you've done 500ks anyway, that will give you time to play with it and learn as you go. Make sure you save the tune and keep it safe before you start. You can always load the old one back in

One of the workers at Nut and Bolt factory has his 32 stolen last week. Same thing....burnt out and dumped at logan. Apparently a young guy driving around in a stolen purple metallic 33GTST is to blame, also I was told Police know who it is and are looking for him. Could be the same guy. He stole it from the Hyperdome. They have his face on CCTV buying the petrol IN the car that was stolen right before the car was found burnt out. So he's f**ked if they get him. I would contact logan CIB to see if it's your car

You have a different tune/setup now. It needs to go to a tuner to be corrected to the new setup. Guilt Toy is completely correct in what he said. If you aren't tuning yourself or don't know how to tune it yourself, then it is probably not safe to mess with it. Get it to anyone with a dyno and tell them you just want a safe run in map which shouldn't take them any longer than an hour. EDIT - ok had a look at the file I can see and it seems like you have a wideband on it. Are you trying to learn to tune it yourself just for the run in?

STOP. Read the second post.....do as he says I'm done.

Not necessarily. It isn't the boost so much that makes it slip. Clutches slip due to torque. The torque your engine has to output to drive the car in higher gears is greater at lower speeds so generally clutches will slip in higher gears first. It's just probably that you use third more aggressively at the moment. Trust me, I know where you are coming from, I have been a mechanic for many years myself and run a business that specialises in high performance Skylines. I worked in the clutch and brake industry for 5 years so I have seen many 'older' mechanics try to get away with old tricks. These things come up onto torque more aggressively than cars used to due to turbo chargers etc. so clutches will tend to slip when their torque threshhold is reached. I am also not 20 something or a backyard overnighter - have been helping SAU personally since 2002, donate to the club, give discount to members and all that. Yes I can be a prick at times when I'm tired but thats usually the same time I read funny posts from 20 somethings trying to do what you are doing. My palm is always facebound in those instances. More credit will be given in future

And you don't need to spend $3k to get a clutch to hold 400hp at the wheels. If your engine plans come to fruition then maybe a twinplate is warranted but the NPC single plates we use are holding in excess of 600whp. The organic 250mm plates we have made are good for 400whp but haven't tested them above that. If it has slipped twice and you machine the flywheel, of course it is going to grip a little better for a short period of time. 240rwkw is the rated maximum for the Exedy HD organic clutch. I'm sure there are people running around with slightly more and I'm sure there are others with less who can make them slip. The point is, the clutch is not adequate for the job so nothing you do is going to change that. But if you can change it yourself, go ahead, it's only your time.

Woah, start by pulling your f**king head in Secondly I asked the question, I didn't tell you it was a pisstake. Slow it down and read what I wrote because you clearly did not. And I quote "probably 80% worn clutch to grab again for what? 30 days? If the clutch is new, then it needs to be upgraded because soon it will be slipping in 4th and 5th." See the word probably? then I said if it is new and slipping then it needs to be upgraded. Take it how you will but you need to step it down a notch before you attack people for replying If you have an organic clutch and it isn't one of the high clamp 250mm plates getting around, then 400hp at the wheels is going to fry it. All I am saying is it would be pointless staying with a clutch that cannot hold the torque you are making. Now I'll just go back over that in case you forget to read it properly again. Notice I didn't say you DID have an organic clutch, I was only assuming you do but it's a little hard to tell from your extremely descriptive original post. I read it several times trying to find any shred of helpful information but alas, I could not. So if you want informative or educational answers to your questions where you are asking for peoples opinions, get a f**king clue first and 1. Be more descriptive and 2. Read the advise CAREFULLY and 3. Take a chill pill before you read it because it seems every reply I have seen from you has been an aggressive onslaught at people who don't get what you're talking about. Oh shit you're in Perth. I should not have wondered why you arced up so hard

Is this a pisstake? You're seriously going to go to all the trouble of removing the gearbox and cleaning up the flywheel just so you can get your probably 80% worn clutch to grab again for what? 30 days? If the clutch is new, then it needs to be upgraded because soon it will be slipping in 4th and 5th.

If you talk nicely to it

My only advice would be to wear protection. If you are going to hang your dick out the window, which it sounds like that is all you want to do, don't be upset when the guy with the better setup passes you sideways

RB20 + GT35R 0.82 = power to 9k

Ifraz (sp) makes 640hp at the wheels with his RB20. Pretty sure it has standard rods and yes RB20's will do 9k every day. Even with standard rods mine didn't fail until the oil pump finally let go. It saw 9k rpm most of the day for 18 months. Put in some rod bolts and it will survive. If you want to rev to 10k + I would get a forged crank for a 26 and do up the Neo engine with a 2.8 stroker. 290 - 310 degree x 10.5mm lift cams and all the supertech gear in the head. It will swallow babies but it will sound like an FA-18 on take off.

You'd be mad to put in anything less than 320 degree

Step 1. Install cat Step 2. Add nitrous Step 3. Winning

Your turbos will be a bigger restriction than that cat if it's a 100 cell. Have made multiple 550hp at wheels using those cats

It may be possible you cracked a spark plug when installing them

Syncromax is different Synchromax® is recommended for manual transmissions that specify an automatic transmission fluid or motor oil. It is also ideal for 4x4 transfer cases and / or 2-cycle and 4-cycle motorcycle gear boxes. And yes - Max Gear is suitable for LSD

http://www.royalpurple.com.au/index.php?ptl=a2_max_gear.php

Yes, we had to keep pumping it back in. Even when it was 1L down, it would still pump it out up 3M of hose that was half a meter higher than the factory point and spit another half litre out into our bottle

We use Royal Purple 75w85 in all the street car stuff and Royal Purple 85w140 in the race stuff Or Motul Gear Competition on request