The Dan

That is FALSE - Do not think that extending your breathers will fix the problem. We extended them higher and longer. It still made it all the way up and 1L would come out on cruise but none on the race track. It was only ever on the way to the race track we would lose that much. It would still lose it in small amounts on the track but not even a fraction in comparison. They are just avoiding the problem. We moved to a better oil, we no longer have this problem

I would disagree, if you close the exhaust as stated, then you will generate massive amounts of heat and pressure. Burn valves, lunch turbos etc. If you are talking about having a 2 or 2.5 inch system on it then it will be fine at cruise and idle. Maybe a little bit better description of the system that's on it?

1000

The oil sticks to the cast iron, flushing with a hose won't get it out. It needs to be heated, mixed with the water, then when it condenses it will collect at the cap Just keep cleaning it off each morning and keep monitoring it day to day. Eventually it will become less and less. If it gets worse, take it in to have it checked

If it had a blown headgasket before and oil mixed with coolant. It will take ages for that oil to get out of the water galleries. You could flush the system 20 times and still not get it out. I'm betting it's just the old crap working it's way up to the top. It will ALWAYS end up at the cap and collect there. Try adding mineral turps to the system as that can help flush it through but unless the car is overheating and there is oil mixing through ALL the coolant, I'd say you have nothing to worry about

Thermostat as stated

Yeah they cost about $35-$40 if you buy them at a wholesaler Retail somewhere about $60 ofr a 90 bend If you can provide me details of your stainless pipe supplier I would greatly appreciate it. I'm clearly paying too much from Tubesales. I only buy small quantities but if you can get them at half the price then it would be worth my while getting them freighted up here. I do a fair bit of custom exhaust work here. Just finished a 4inch full system on a 34GTR. He supplied the manifold and gate etc and it uses that flexible stuff you guys are talking about. Looks like rows hooked into each other. Seems to work pretty well and the heat coating we had done didn't affect it negatively and its strength is good too. Makes wastegate plumbing very easy. For other options, we use a 2inch flexible bellows - they are like a braid outer with a spring inside to bend. Makes aligning Vbands a sexual experience

Stainless costs double that of mild steel in the same tube size unless you buy it wholesale in which case it's about 75% dearer

plumbing 2 gates in is going to be a head f**k for the guy doing it. I'd say $1000 would be a minimum for this job. Don't forget you will need flexible bellows for the gate pipes as you won't line 2 up simultaneously once it's made. It takes just as long (sometimes longer) to do the wastegate returns - just because they are smaller, doesn't make them any easier. I reckon whoever does it would be looking at a day to do it which is going to work out to be $500-800 just in labour. If the cat isn't already 4 inch it will also be hard to adapt it with a flange as 4inch only comes in 3 bolt triangle flanges or vband. Vband won't go easily onto a 3.5 inch cat and neither will a 3 bolt triangle flange. It will need to be stepped down before the cat and that reduces the amoutn of room you have to run the gate returns Not an exciting job

Yes it would. And if the engine is not assembled with the turbo pistons in place, it is almost impossible to get the positioning right as a flat surface needs to be machined, hole drilled, thread tapped.....then you gotta get 6 oil squirters. Sounds like a head-f**k to me. Get a DET block as suggested

check the factory oil cooler on the standard oil filter mounting plate. The seal might be f**ked inside. Oil and water mix at that point *edit* and unless a wet comp test or leakdown was done, stop guessing about compression problems. If it was a warped deck you are more likely to get oil and water mixing both ways and going into cylinders. Warped blocks are rare....so rare in fact I have never seen one except a 1JZ making 1k hp that had a decent explosion in the cylinder which squashed a piston and if there WAS a dip between cyl 3 and 4....that would have nothing to do with oil in the water If there was oil in the water galleries as well, sometimes it can take some time to work its way up to the cap. How bad is the oil mixing in the water?

It is the same when I check them

Absolutely can. As long as you know what you are doing and have the correct tools to do backlash and preload. The pinion bearings are usually available ex-melbourne from Nissan. You can possibly source them aftermarket but I wouldn't risk it as they'll give you a bearing with the wrong clearance if they don't know what they're doing. Usually punches and hammers are the only thing required with a bearing change. If you put everything back exactly how it came out inc the shims all on the correct sides etc, 99.9% of the time they go back to the same backlash as before. The preload you must do by feel and it's not something you can be taught by text. Best I can do is say - loose enough to turn by hand - tight enough that it's like undoing a jam jar.

I thought you checked the injectors?

The GTR/GTST 25 boxes should take about 3.6-3.8L And don't tell me that you put 3L in your mates mates car and it was full. Drive the car around the block and check it again. Most of the R200 rear diffs will take 1.6-1.7L front diffs in the GTR about the same but closer to 1.5

I think it is more likely to be your diff. Usually t is due to lack of oil or lack of good quality oil. If it's the diff it will be a bearing and will cost you about $500 to fix, if it's gearbox it will be the input shaft bearing (you hope) but that's rare, or the hard casing is worn off the countershaft/4th gear(input shaft) <--- more common

I think he thinks you were running the hydraulic head still. Is that the case?

Yes it can be done 6 - 8 hours

It makes more sense to do a leakdown test at the same time as a compression test. Probably get the mechanic to do a comp test at the same time to confirm your results

What was the leakdown test result?

Supertech do two types of valve springs for the RB26 - one for use with the standard seats and the other to use with none (or their own). Even though Ferrea make a great product, if you use Ferrea valves and then the springs from someone else, then the buckets from someone else again, I think you'll end up having mismatch problems. It is always better to stick 100% with the one manufacturer in these cases to ensure 100% fit with no problems

There is only one problem that can be encountered from that setup.....he will have ford parts on his car. May as well drive the thing off the edge of a quarry right now.

I love the supertech stuff. By far the best spring available on the market today. And the above parts won't be enough. You'll need an engine and a turbo also. The camshafts won't make any hp

Check your cam cover breathers/catch can breather to make sure they aren't kinked. Check the turbo oil drain to make sure it is not kinked. If these are all ok and not blocked, then yeah....turbo is likely to be stuffed

To start with, your RB30 box is not going to last with the full potential of that turbo. You could possibly have it built to handle it but I have my doubts. If you read the auto - manual conversions....just reverse it. You would need an ECU with that turbo mod so assuming you go with a decent ECU like a V500 or a Platinum, it should be capable of auto control. The rest is just bolt in stuff in reverse of the opposite conversion (clutch pedal box removal, brake pedal change, flex plate, auto + converter, tailshaft, shifter etc) The rest is done by the ECU