The Dan

Mate it's not an easy thing to get an exact exhaust note. Your best bet is to go to a few of the club events and see what other guys are running. See if you like any of them and ask for advice there. The club scene is very helpful and the event guys are awesome. Not only that but you'll make new friends and learn a lot about your car at the same time

No, a damaged piston or head gasket can cause a missfire at idle but not when above 1000rpm. Compression could come back 100% as well. Valve can be the same. RB's aren't well known for carbon buildup on valves or ports but it can happen. Do the comp, if it's 100%, do a proper leakdown test

Anyone know what a spark well gasket is? It's doin my head in!

Ring or valve would be my guess. What was done in the 20 months it was off the road?

The GTR clutch cover has a higher clamping force and the clutch plate usually has the heavier duty springs. It is better than a standard clutch but I'm pretty sure they are equal to the HD

Yeah definitely not as good as a GT35R. For similar power the 3788 still shits on the 6265 for response from what I have seen. It almost traced the same boost line. Noel (Fineline) ended up making 565 on 24psi I think but it's having some wastegate problems so the boost has been tapering off to 16 and making about 520. That's on E85 though.

Not sure mate. I'll find out though

Just built an RB26 for a guy using one of these for the first time instead of a GT35R and I can tell you it is a frickin monster! 600rwhp @26psi and equivalent response to the 35R. The biggest difference is the GT35R won't live a long and happy life at those power levels. It get's the from me

the line "only it goes away when the clutch pedal has even the smallest amount of pressure applied" would indicate that it's not the bearing as the smallest amount of pressure on the pedal will not stop the gearbox from spinning

Lubricate the pivot ball and fork. You can also lubricate the shift boot where the pivot fork goes through on the side of the gearbox.....that one caught me out once before. The rubber squeaking on the alloy bellhousing. Usually it's the pivot ball, fork or the actual throwout bearing. Have had good success with just lubricating these components

Also: RB25DET engine gasket kit comes with everything you need to overhaul your engine. Kit includes new seals, o-rings, valve seals, stock headgasket, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, chain tensioner gasket, AIV gasket, turbo outlet gaskets, valve cover gaskets, spark well gaskets, and many more! The above listing for the link you provided - WTF is a spark well gasket? The picture shows a gasket set for an RB26 but the listing says RB25. It also says EVERYTHING you need to overhaul your engine. I don't see rings and bearings? And if I'm being a picky cunt, it's also missing the half moon seals

Turbo timer has nothing to do with it. Detonation usually as a result of too much ignition timing or overheating. Considering you ruled out overheating, that is probably not going to be the cause. the running rough for a couple of weeks would have been due to water getting into the cylinder and causing a wet spark until the heat evaporated it or it blew out the exhaust. The spark plug thread you should let your engineer fix it when he does the cylinder head service. and buy the gasket from Nissan, stop frigging around with Ebay and cheap shortcut options. Get the proper gear and do it right otherwise you'll end up doing it twice

Love the idea. I think it would work....but you'd have to ask the question of why the car companies have not done it yet? There has to be SOME reason why it won't be economical

We've seen more like 1000hp on the standard ones with no problems. The issue this guy is going to have is he will put on a commetic and, as stated above, if the surface grind is not perfect, the gasket will not seal properly and it will end up blowing out. Then there will be another person bagging out commetic gaskets as a result.

Exactly....but would I be happy packing shelves at a local supermarket? Hell no. Obviously you have the potential to earn more with a busy employer or a large company in need but Mechs are the lowest paid trade in the world

award wage is $19/h fully qualified sad but true

Ok I get it now. The Sarge is correct. Now that I've read it a few more times It does make sense. You won't create any noticeable positive pressure while in 'N' because of the lack of load on the engine. Make sure your gauge is accurate by checking against another one

Buy a standard head gasket. You don't need anything different You also need to find out why you blew the headgasket.....it's not very common in these engines unless there are tune problems or overheating issues. Both of which, will not be corrected by choosing MLS for a head gasket

Needs moar WD-40!!! Have you tried Inox? I've heard it's better

Change the shockproof for something else. We had the same problem in both our race cars and a couple of customers cars that shockproof went into.

Because powercruise is always right after Jamboree which is a much better event. Jamboree has REAL racing rather than a commo skidfest, which, I can go down to the local hangout and see on a Thursday night if I wanted to. The quality of promo girls is mmm, ok but that's it, just ok. Then it's just a masisve line of yank tanks and cmmodores racing each other slowly around a circuit in short bursts. Each to their own though, you might like that kind of thing. Most people here don't seem to hence the lack of mention. http://www.powercruise.com/ Bookmark it so you won't forget next year or try http://www.streetcommodores.com.au/ as they might mention it more

Welcome mate. Good to have another enthusiast in our midst. And everyone loves an Irishman

Incorrect pushrod length maybe? Or, if you have done the conversion and kept the same master cylinder but let it go dry, you need to bleed that master cylinder properly first, before ANY fluid will go through the rest of the lines.

Whatever works for you. I wasn't telling you to change, I was only providing an educational viewpoint for the readers of this thread. Most good engineers can do 0.0001-0.0002 without too much of a problem but go 3 tenths or 4 and the journal WILL become out of round and uneven across the face. Whether that equals engine failure or not, I'm not sure, as there are so many different reasons an engine can fail but I do know that an out of round journal is worse than 1 tenth in clearance

Definitely better to have more than enough fuel than not enough. 2000's might be a bit overkill though so make sure your tuner will be happy with the end result but from our experience with these, they shouldn't be much of a problem as the injector time can be pulled right down with no real adverse effects