The Dan

Then refer to my original post. The driveshafts (CV's + shaft) will be shorter in the A-LSD car because the A-LSD diff is 25mm wider at least. Not 100% sure whether or not it will be a problem but you should check that the driveshafts aren't pulling back on the half shafts. I could be wrong as I have never physically disassembled the A-LSD driveshafts and compared them to standard driveshafts. They may just slide further out of the tripod CV on the hub side, not sure. You should also check the half shaft length vs the centre depth to see if maybe they didn't go all the way in or something. The tin shield should go almost all the way up against the seal. If it doesn't, then it may not be all the way home.

So from diff right out to hubs is all non-alsd?

If it's like a whooshing/rubbing sound just before engagement, then that is normal. The button material is more harsh than the organic material so it is more audible

You said you pulled out an A-LSD. Did you change the driveshafts as well? You know the A-LSD is about 25mm wider than a standard R200 diff. Is it possible the attached driveshaft actually pulled the half shaft out of the diff slightly?

What is the main tunnel size measurement? And did you check the girdle for straigtness or fretting on the parting pace? Is everything clean etc?

We have found that linishing the crankshaft to achieve an exact measurement will actually do more harm than good. Of course you can generally always take off 0.0001 without too much trouble but anything more than that will make the journal not round any longer and create a wave effect over it. Sometimes it is better to have that small variation in clearance rather than the wavey journal, but once again 0.0001 is generally considered ok for a linish if you absolutely had to.

From memory NDC make the factory Nissan bearing don't they? And yeah, have sent a few sets of ACL back myself but only because we didn't like more than 0.0001 variation.

Nothing I said was ambiguous. You are the one baiting me instead of actually reading what I wrote. Here it is in black and white for you so listen up because I don't want to have to say it one more time. I DO NOT TUNE CARS. I BUILD CARS. My tuner said to me 'it's a good thing we have the fuel flow of that pump as it's currently using just over 9L/min of fuel' This is based on ms open time of the injectors at peak power. The injector is being told to inject an EXACT amount of fuel. The size of the injector is predetermined so we can calculate (using AFR's also) the EXACT amount of fuel being used at peak power. I was told 'just over 9L/min' I also said in my initial post (without reading back to find exact words) 'I can find out the figures and get back to you guys if it will help you out' Read it again if you have to. I clearly stated that I would be able to find out the exact amounts if I was required to. I was only told just over 9L/min not an EXACT amount, and I don't have the car here any more to be able to look in the Motec to find out what ms the injectors are open at peak power AND my tuner is away until Monday. SO, does this answer ALL of your questions regarding this topic or are you going to sit there and tell me now that fuel flow cannot be calculated using this method? Coz I'd really love to hear that story. Oh and completely pointless I might add. You have a go at me in a smartass manner to what effect? Just to puff your chest in a public forum? I was merely stating my experience with a recent build and a few other recent builds and our findings considering E85 is fairly new to most of us in the semi professional scene. Me having a flow gauge that reads 9L/min has absolutely nothing to do with the topic and is only a chance for you to pull some shit for a laugh. We are aware of that, each engine will be different, but if you have some specific knowledge or some way to apply a formula then instead of having digs at me, maybe offer a knowledgeable hand to others who don't understand what it all means and how it applies to them. Hmm?

I'd be happy for you to post the response you gave me here. Tell everyone here what is it exactly that you said when I asked the same information of you when you called me out in another thread? Good luck finding anything because you never responded. Even when I then called you out on it in your own build thread after having aonther dig at me, you still failed to provide the simple data which I asked for. You have not personally built the cars that are making the hp or running the fuel systems or seeing what happens to cars with inadequate fueling. You just read stuff on a forum and spit it out like its gospel. Apart from your own car, do you actually have any real world experience or is it just you pulling your dick over dyno figures again? I asked for simple figures from you. YOU NEVER PROVIDED THEM. I told you before and I'll tell you once more, if you cannot provide the simple data I have asked for, then your claims of hp are guesses at best.

Feel bad for the guy but honestly these cars are targets right now. You all need to keep a close eye on your car because they can be gone in an instant. Most people can't afford the high end alarms. If you can't, at least get a double kill switch installed. If anything if will take them 5 times longer to get going if at all. Another option is to install a cheap alarm that has a loud siren, then the double kill switch, that way at least you know when someone opens a door etc. On the side of the police, fair go mate, the police that chase crims are not the same assholes that issue you with speeding tickets. Put yourself in their shoes, where would you start looking? On the other side of the coin though, walk into a bank and take $1000 and see how quick they run. I'm not justifying anything, just things need to change, and if they aren't, we all need better protection for our pride and joy

LOL thought so. Every time you have a dig at me on the forums I ask you to provide proof in the tune and you only ever come back with your ET and MPH. Never hard facts.

As long as your clearances are ok and you are using a tri-metal bearing you will be fine. The bearing is not going to be a point of failure and if you were going to be pushing the limits of either manufacturer then building it yourself is probably not the best option. Even the bi-metal bearings are ok in things mildly tuned - Nissan had no trouble with them

There is a whole thread on this only a few weeks back. Explains everything

Was waiting for you to jump in. Had nothing previously? Still waiting for those figures. You gonna sit there and keyboard slash or you going to do what I asked 6 months ago when you pulled the same gutless shit?

Hmm, what a conundrum. Now you'll have to start a thread on who's opinion is the best opinion. My advice would be to ask your engine builder, if you are the engine builder, then it won't matter

ACL

Yes it is basic math if the figures are correct to begin with Yes they do. Can we get a non-perth car to gives accurate hp figures in here. Is it just me or do you guys seem to all make 100hp more than you should? Maybe it's the air? Let's see the highest injector ms in the tune for both those cars at peak power and the AFR's for both as well please.

What has that got to do with the 800cc question and what power they are going to be safe at? You are suggesting 800cc injectors are going to be safe at 400rwkw and not 300rwkw as I have said? At least, that's the way your post reads - maybe I'm reading it incorrectly. Keeping in mind that we've had this discussion before about telling people 'she'll be right mate' is not optimum advice for a public forum and considering that AFRs will be extremely lean to achieve that hp. You can certainly make more than 400hp at the wheels on 800cc injectors but take the car out and hold 3rd, 4th and 5th til redline and see what happens. But....I suppose this guy can go out and run his car on the limit based on your advice, blow it up and you will be able to wipe your hands of it. I feel a little more responsible for the advise I give here so it's fairly important that the whole picture is examined.

Are you referring to the same T04GTR and Gav that posted in this thread? Because I'm pretty sure they said they have 1000cc injectors

I always thought the issue with having two different events at the one place at the same time was due to the fact that drifting is prone to more car breakages and therefore more track down time for the racers. Is this not the case? It has been every time I have seen it

Fineline here on Elite Racing computer you are the one who is wrong. Time attack is doing very nicely thank you. Call it sprints, call it what you like its the same thing. And yes, i am aware that every drifter isnt a spastic flat capper but unfortunately that element is largely the only group it appeals to as a spectator event. If you're referring to me in your comment re complaining and not entering you may well be right. We already have time attack/sprint/hillclimb events out the wazoo up here. I will by all means enter your event when it is in my part of the world but like many others I certainly wouldnt try and pursue a national series around the country. As for my negativity. Hell no! I am positive that combining drifting and t/a can only be detrimental to t/a in the long run. Nothing negative there at all. Just a factual observation from someone who has been around a while. As a t/a participant I resent the fact that you see the need to combine the 2. Colour it any way you like but to my mind money can be the only motivation for such a decision. As for drifting teaching you to drive, what a load of horseshit. did you ever think that if you spent your drifting time doing circuit work you would have imporved that much any way. Finding the limit of traction is a far more important feature of circuit work than drifting. Their goal is to lose it as quickly as possible. anyhoos, fire away, its your event and you can run it any way you see fit. Just dont post it on a public forum and not expect to hear opinions.

Exactly right.....and if he read my post again he would see what I wrote in brackets instead of beng as quick as possible to jump on my post

We usually go LS2 Truck coils on anything that needs more spark. They have 120mj output as opposed to LS1 coils with 60mj ouput CDI is good though, it does have its limitations in some applications and can cause extreme noise in street cars if not properly wired or shielded

Would be possible on 2 bar with E85

I'd work out why a forged piston melted before deciding which one you want to melt next 510hp is nothing, 1.7 bar is nothing and 8200rpm is nothing The answer to your question is not which one is going to be best, it's which one you can get the easiest and cheapest. They are all equal and no matter what anyone tells you, they are all going to be perfectly fine in your application. It's not until you start making over 1000 hp that piston choice really matters