The Dan

I'm pretty sure I already have

Retail is only $750 with adaptors for the ID1000's and $1050 for the ID2000's. Any more than that and you're paying too much

Garrett make the cartidge in the HKS turbo, why would it be different?

Be careful buying online from EBay as there are copies getting around for cheap. VPW are pretty good for price and genuine Bosch stuff. You can also try MTQ Engine Systems as they are a Bosch dealer

Nope

That's what everyone says until they wanna make horsepower

To start with, they may not be ripping you off so there's no reason to jump to conclusions. By the sounds of the information you have given, they have replaced a cam cover (rocker cover) gasket and a '3in' gasket (which could be a 2 bolt 3 inch flange gasket for the cat etc). The gasket between the turbo and manifold is reasonably common to fail in these anywhere around 120k. We do one around every month or two so I would say it's the most likely cause. If it's a cooler pipe making the noise then it could be from them removing it to gain access to the cam cover gasket in which case, they should fix it....but.....if they did a 3 inch gasket at the cat converter and a cam cover gasket, then no, it is purely coincidence that the turbine inlet gasket has blown. Certainly no reason to give them the flick straight away. Take it back to see what they say, if they say something technical, get them to put it in writing and post it here. I am fluent in tech speak. SAU won't let anyone rip you off

Have seen 56psi on a standard gasket for well over 100 dyno passes and still going. Depends on your tuner. Depends on head studs/bolts. Depends on what position venus is in the solar system. It all comes down to how good your tuner is. The tuner we use is the best.....and yes, I will put money on it

It is likely that you either have a broken spring in the clutch plate or diaphram. If the fingers of the clutch cover are uneven, then as the clutch rotates it will be moving the release bearing over the high/low spot on the fingers and hydraulic pulse the slave cylinder up to the master and through the pedal as the recovery port is blocked when the pedal is depressed. I would check the usual stuff like pivots and slave cylinder first but I'm pretty sure your gearbox is going to need to come out

We use 'Windscreens for Cars' They can remove and refit the screens and they can source the aftermarket seals. I would definitely go Nissan genuine for seals though as the aftermarket ones never do the job properly. Also expect to have the front screen smashed when if it's removed. I suppose it all depends on whether you even need to remove them or if you're just replacing the very outer

Is the pulsing vibration there when the engine is stopped as well as running or just one or the other?

I've never had problems with the unit or the solenoids on, only the people who wire them in incorrectly. I'd say most people's grief would be caused by the same thing

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/358852-flat-spot-at-3000-rpm/ Here's one. It's still on the first page of forced induction. Try using search, it's probably the MOST common problem EVER encountered on these cars. There are literally hundreds of threads on this same topic. I'm actually surprised Ash hasn't put his generic search post in here and closed this. Oh well, one or two are bound to slip through I guess lol

yep

Yeah, power capability of approx the 4294 but the response of something like a T04Z Only a turbo you would select for making easy 600hp at the wheels or pushed hard to 800hp at the wheels with the right fuel. We use the 3788 as it's better suited to what we do/need

Oh sorry, it just looked exactly like a thread last week. And the week before and the week before that. My mistake. It's hard to tell these days

lastweeksthread? Is that you?

It's normal, pod filters make the circulation of air more audible than the enclosed box does

You may also find that petroject have changed their name to Automotive Service Solutions

They are easy to do yourself if you have a vice and some patience

You don't need a picture, there are two sensors poking out the side of the box, then the speedo. If you actually look, you will see it. Difficult to get to from under the car but you may have to drop the gearbox crossmember to lower the box to gain access to the switch. Trust me, look and you will see it

There are two sensors on the driver's side of the box.....if you drive on the RH side lol.....it is the one furthest forward from memory. The switch will either be stuck on inside or the wires are bare and touching. You only have to touch the two wires together and it will do what you are describing. I would guess it's the wiring and not the sensor as usually people do a half arsed job in that department and the sensors are a pretty basic operation

I'm sure you are right. that may be the reason the EFI boys run 150mph on standard engines. Who knows

Yes, we don't bother buying second hand units any more. We buy brand new sensors and rebuild the original unit with the new sensor. So basically you just use your old alloy housing and put a new sensor inside and new bearings - hey presto - new CAS Costs about $200-$250 depending on a couple of things

Yes it does. And I still need those bearings so I can rebuild that front diff for you. Have they arrived from Japan yet?