The Dan

NPC 07 3277 9403

You'll be lucky to find those types of car washes these days. They do exist but are very rare.

approx increase of 30kw at the wheels

Diff parts?

Thanks. They seem to be what we were looking for. And only about $150 so also the right price.

The MSD RPM switch looks like it only turns something on at a specific RPM? We need to turn it off again at a certain RPM so that means it would need to be programmable

I'll look into that thanks. The factory RB25 inlet gear is adjustable....it's just on the back of the gear I have seen someone do a bolt configuration through the gear so it was adjustable from the front.

For it to be closed loop it will need a signal input from the camshaft position sensor that you will need to install. You can't just use RPM as an input for closed loop as it's unrelated to what you are adjusting

oh sorry, standard bore RB26

The benefits are as stated above. The principle is to increase and decrease the overlap of the camshafts by changing the valve timing on one side. By doing both sides, you are still increasing or decreasing overlap, just in a different way. I'm not going to spend thousands making a system to do both sides as the benefit would be nil or minimal.

No, it's not closed loop. But that's a weird question

Huge difference. Up to 1000rpm better boost response and an extra 40 odd HP through the entire midrange You cannot really do two due to the way it is activated and you are only increasing/decreasing overlap so having both going is pointless.

Better than picking my bum. No need to apologise, I'm very grateful to have you as a customer.....and even moreso one that doesn't pick my bum

38.2% of people wouldn't believe that

exactly

We are looking into an rpm box for you guys.

Well it depends on what setup you have. If you have an ecu capable of switching a solenoid at a certain rpm, then we would be able to sort out something within a couple of weeks. We are still working on the standard ECU guys options.

None, all the technology in the RB26 head is present in the Neo head. Valve/port angle etc. The only benefit the 26 head has is more readily available parts

Can't tell you the cam specs sorry. That has been the most important part so far. We have spent a lot of time working out what will work and what will not including head off 2 times in a GTR in one week. I hate doing them Our stuff is different to HKS's.

No I mean 26/30's with VCT

RB26 head. We only use the R33 VCT inlet gear and the rest we make ourselves. So far, costs have been minimal but we had the cylinder head off already. That would add substantial cost to the conversion but good for anyone in the build. We are working out all our cam specs next week as we don't want pistons saying hello to valves when everything is advanced. The difference is amazing in both boost response and power. You guys are talking about possibly going the 30 instead of a VCT setup.....what about 30 AND VCT together? I just barred up a little

Check your earth connection to the battery as well. When that starter needs to draw like 60 amps or some shit, if you have bad connections, it won't be enough to throw it. Sometimes, also, adding the extra lead enables it to get past this point and throw anyway, even though the bad connection is the slip rings or solenoid. I'd try cleaning earths and power cable first, then if it still plays up, pull the starter apart and just clean it out. 90% of the time it works every time Right, now I'm gonna head home...I've spent enough bloody time at work today!

VCT for RB26 is not expensive

I hope that guy leaning over the bonnet isn't listening for knock? LOL if he is

Nissan grade their bearings because they want to save money. If you understand their process of assembly, you will understand why. First of all, they employ dozens of people to assemble their engines and MILLIONS of dollars in machines which can tell them exact dimensions of a crank or bore. Can you imagine them having to pay for each person to hand assemble every engine one at a time? I mean, they hand assemble them but they don't sit there with micrometers or plastigauge and measure each and every bearing journal etc. Therefore, they stamp the crank and the blocks so that the person who does have to assemble it, can do so quickly and efficiently by grabbing the necessary bearings and just screwing it together. As long as the numbers match, they don't give 2/5th's of a shit what the clearance is because Mr Nissan already worked that out for them. You may think ACL have taken the cheaper option by producing one-size-fits-all bearings but that is not the case. They spent a huge sum of money developing a bearing which has approx 40% higher load carrying capacity in a tri-metal bearing rather than Nissan's bi-metal design. There is also the fact that as long as your bearings are all within 0.0002 of each other that it doesn't really matter. We never let engines go with a difference or more than that but usually due to ACL's fine engineering, we can be assured that they are usually all the same clearance, if not, within 0.0001 of each other. We have sent a few sets of bearings back to ACL for incorrect tolerances but in most cases we just keep them and buy another set when we are not happy. Every engine has slightly different characteristics, whether it be tunnel size or journal size, so we are never concerned about putting a set back into a box and trying another set as we know the next engine will probably use the set from the first. My recommendation, whether using graded bearings or not......measure your engine before putting it all together. It's not worth the risk on your investment. It's like handing a stranger $10,000 and saying 'please take this money and invest it in what you think is the best return investment'