The Dan

Suggestions were made, you have offered no further input Also, my crystal ball stopped working last week

Keep in mind people, bleed nipples on brakes are tapered flare or ball seat - (ball seat in old euro stuff only usually). Thread tape should NEVER be put on to seal them. If you are referring to the fitting that houses the nipple, that should also never have thread tape on it....use locktite thread sealant or thread lock if you have to. Much better seal that way

Also, unless he can show both myself and Sean (tuner at EFI) that he actually NEEDS more than 565hp at the wheels, then he won't be getting 1hp more. If it was a dyno car or something that only saw driving on weekends, I'd push it til it stopped making power. Should be good for 700hp at the tyres with everything going for it.

If you had blown 5 turbos in 3 years and had to rebuild the engine every time, lunching bores and destroying heads, I think I know where I'd stick that envelope if he pushed it. The aim of this was purely to give Noel a fast car. He continued to push the 35R til it's absolute breaking point. Every time one would blow, another would go on, then blow. We moved to this turbo because we know what it can do and hopefully it will mean he can actually go out and race the car instead of waiting for me to have time to build him another engine.

No, that's on the street. Sean had a 20psi boost cut and a 4200rpm cut. I was hitting boost cut at 3900 in 4th. This was pre tune though, the timing will effect how the boost comes on so we'll see if it makes any difference.

And sorry for not using multiquote - it is bugging out on me for some stupid reason

From what we heard before we put one on Gervase's 33GTR, the XR6 guys were replacing Z's with them and gaining about 100hp at the wheels and 400-500rpm better response Gervase took off his 0.84 T04Z and put on the 0.89 GT3788 and gained about 400rpm response and made (I think) about 80hp at the wheels more on the same dyno. This is the 4th one of these turbos I have fitted now, every single one is as responsive as a 35R or around the same but makes 150 odd HP more at the wheels depending on the application of course (mostly 25/30's or heavily modded 26's)

No, at wheels

They have been super popular. New turbo design. They are only about 1 year old technology now.....well, to retail This thing sees 20psi before 4k - approx 3800-3900

Absolutely not. The aim is for same power but more reliable at those power levels GT3788R, RB2530, Wolf V500, E85, Bosch Black 1600cc injectors etc etc. Boost response on the 3788 is virtually identical to his 35R. The lines literally trace each other

The Niva Lada was made from the scrap metal from Russian tanks after the war

I got dozens of f**ked ones somewhere

Well, that's false

Lies! Everyone knows it's 48

What do you do? You turn around like we did. Or does it take a tourist on your bonnet to realise that shit is definitely not what SAU is all about? Probably something to do with Kym launching in front of everyone, then everyone just follows suit.....or possibly the pep talk pre cruise where he told us all to race other turbo cars if they were to come next to us at lights - even if a cop car was next to us. I mean, I know this is in jest but cmon, we're not school kids any more.

Then yes, it will fit if it's a push type also

Yeah, let's start a section where people can thank us all for the free information we give. Or they can donate, that would be better. Or we can just give the information to help others.....and not dwell on the thankless task we are taking part in, being happy in the fact that we have helped someone.

The centre bearing goes on the shaft by spline. You need to mark this before removal. I'm not talking about the spline into the back of the gearbox. If you undo the centre bearing and remove it, then put it back in a different location (on a different spline) then it will be wrong

R33 GTR is pull type - and no, R32 GTR push type won't direct fit it

Mate if you did the centre bearing and didn't mark it, I'm pretty sure it's about 22 splines. So there are that many different positions you can put it in. Good luck, it looks like you have a busy weekend ahead of you. Oh and putting the uni back in the wrong position where it mates up with the diff USUALLY won't give you a vibration. The Nissan diffs are very accurate and don't have the high/low spots that old hilux and 9inch diffs had

You'd piss it in with 13k mate. Forged rebuild with -7's should only cost you about 11k

You have turned your clutch plate into a ball of hair most likely.

I have fit a couple of the 2860RS (Disco) to RB20's, the dyno overlay from before to after showed a complete line trace in boost response, then the disco just kept making more power where the standard turbo started to turn. Made about 220-240rwkw in both instances EDIT: I forgot to mention, that was with a Sonic turbine housing which makes it about a 0.73 A/R instead of the 0.86 standard form

I wouldn't cross fingers, it makes it hard to put bolts in

You don't need it but you definitely want it. You should get your tuner to hook up the consult and in the active test section they can activate it and deactivate it to see if the solenoid is working. You can hotwire it to test the solenoid also (direct from a 12v source) If it's not wiring or solenoid problem, then the Nistune is to blame