The Dan

Nissan run somewhere around 45 degrees on light load cruising on their factory ECU.

If you turn the key to the on position and you start getting leaks, then try replacing the o-rings first. Replace both top and bottom. You can get these from any injector cleaning place or mobile guy or from Nissan at approx $1 each I think (I don't know exact price as I buy them in bags of 200) If the injectors leak from the small holes on the side near the top, then they are fubar and you will need to buy new ones. For a basic street car, just get some siemens ~500cc and a Nistune or something equivalent. If you are after something more serious, talk to your tuner or mechanic more about the size they recommend and the brand they recommend.

Quite possibly a little end bearing which is not as serious. I didn't get a chance to hear it to confirm but I will if I'm up there tomorrow On a more positive note, I did rub my nuts on the left rear quarter of your car for good luck today. Damn clean car mate, well done! and I'm not joking, I actually rubbed them on your car.....well, through the shorts.....but damn that fabric is thin so I reckon it's the same

GTR injectors will always leak eventually. If you bought new ones, take them back for a refund. If you bought second hand ones, then buyer beware. If you buy another set of GTR injectors, they will ALSO leak eventually. They all do, there is no way to fix them. Before ditching them, though, check the top and bottom seals to be sure it is the injectors fault. Usually they leak from the small holes near the top on the side when the car is running. They will not leak when the car is not running.

Clean freak!

I wouldn't be too worried about the steam. It's normal if the car has not been driven very much. The condensation builds up inside the mufflers and it will burn out. They probably didn't bleed the system correctly so it may have only been down a litre or two. It is also possible your radiator cap is faulty. When you say they had put no coolant in, do you mean there was no coolant or no fluid at all?

Don't work to earn money. Work to evolve your thinking and the money will come naturally!

That's a half cut with a case of 21 yo Caol Ila thrown in. Did I not mention that? My bad

buy a VL

Only if the gearbox and starter are still connected and you can power up the ECU. Set up some sort of dummy fuel system and away you go...... Or you could just tell the guy you want a guarantee that there won't be problems when you go to start it, and if there are, he will return your money. Get it in writing. If he won't, then go buy one from a wrecker who will. Decent RB20's only go for like $1000

More of a rhetorical question lol. As for the N1 pumps old and new. I started noticing most failures about 2.5 years ago. Prior to that we could never fault them. There was another RB30 I built around the same time for a guy after he blew the headgasket, due to tuner stupidity, detonated the shit out of his old engine and blew the head gasket through...38 deg timing at 6500rpm and 24psi boost seems to have that effect Anyway, we pulled the pistons out for good measure to check them for damage and the rings were seized. So I convinced the guy to check his brand new N1 pump (1000km old)....had a crack through the inner gear. Engine never saw over 6800rpm From then on I never used another N1 pump unless the customer absolutely refuses to buy anything else. 1000km at no higher than 6800rpm, collar fitted and ROSS balancer - gotta be something they are doing with cheap manufacture to have SO many fail so close and all around the same time. Prior to that we only ever heard good things about the N1 pumps but were just starting to hear of a couple of failures here and there, never thought too much about it until 3 let go under non-extreme conditions. I'd say why take the gamble? If you have an N1 pump and it's old than 3 years, chances are it's gonna be fine. If you have bought one recently, I'd definitely stay away from it. Not worth the risk IMO

Coolant doesn't make your engine run cooler, all it does is increase the boiling point. In fact, due to Ethylene Glycol being an oil product, it actually reduces the thermal efficiency of water. Only products that reduce surface tension are going to reduce temps

The bikers at the Browns Plains hotel don't listen to reason when you tell them not to dance on the table. Their missus gets in your face

Yeah I'm only 199cm and 130kg. I couldn't fight but if I landed a punch...... No, I don't think the fuel is stale, I just tasted it and it seems fine

Bat flattery Boz, we have initiated 'GO CHARGIMON' Then it's 'GO TUNIMON'

oh and f**k you and your corporate/loose party decisions

I know what you mean, I was a bouncer for almost 3 years. I know you wouldn't expect someone as small as me to be in a profession like that

Where the hell did the two flats go?

May....your April be filled with joy!

Yeah it must be so much frickin hard work eyeballin all the pussy every day. Quit ya whingein!

Trent is probably doing nothing wrong. The engine may not knock at all. 110 would definitely be audible. The problem is also that you are pushing a stock turbo almost to it's full potential so you are generating a lot of hot air. This may cause knock spikes after a few sustained runs and it may not show up on the dyno

they need to be checked dry

+1 r34 Sidemount

Yeah not a problem mate, always glad to help. It was only a very minor mod at the end so not a big worry. I can arrange something like driving the car to your place of work or something similar. I am able to get lifts from just about anywhere and if it means less hassle for you, then sign me up!

I'm pretty much finished mate. It's all up to the ECU now. That get's done tomorrow as long as there are no more holdups - holyf**kenshit I hate japanese instructions on intercoolers that are supposed to 'bolt on'. YEAH RIGHT!