The Dan

You can't put a price on loyalty. Even if you don't stay with your new employer, make sure you at least give them the opportunity to fight for you. And remember......with great power, comes great responsibility!

I have already got design drawings for the N1 profile as I make the billet gearsets for the factory pumps but I agree that the spline idea is worth trying. I have a very reputable wire cutter that can cut any drawing you want to absolute perfection (as a spline will need to be wire cut, not CNC machined I believe) If anyone wants to have a crack at it and talk to the wire cutter for quotes, I would be happy to sell the drawings already digitised and ready to go in the correct format. I say sell as I had to pay a fair bit of money in set up fees and digitising. Shane (I think) still has the drawings for spline drive too but they may still be at the old dodgey machinist that he was going through. I can also lend a doner collar made by our machinist. I just lack the time and motivation after trying to sell the normal billet gears. They don't sell like hotcakes, I can tell you that

I built this engine. About 2.5 years ago. N1 pump was used at customer's request. I suggested using a Tomei as we were building two other Tomei pump engines at the time and you can't really go past them for quality/reliability The N1 pump was brand new. Collar was new and fitted by an engineer. We always check clearance on collars when we fit them. It had a ROSS balancer too so not a harmonic issue I don't think. Such a shame, that engine was destined to make some bigger numbers. Although I can't prove any problem with the N1 pumps, we just stay clear of them now due to the pump failures we have seen.

Ahh true, I didn't see where he wrote 5th. Thanks

Is it an Auto?

Referring to the gearbox as a whole unit.

The money would be better spent on a forged crankshaft that will ACTUALLY rev to 11k rpm. Your engineer can only balance it to 0 anyway, your steel crankshaft is not going to survive very long after 8500rpm. Not only do you risk destroying the crankshaft due to the very aggressive nature of the machine that cuts it, but the benefit of having a knife edged crank is minimal, like have a lightened flywheel. The cost far outweighs the benefit IMO.

Stop being tight arses lol, they are only $200

He hasn't looked under his ego yet. Get a couple of fellas to help him lift it

I understand most people would not have the kind of equipment to test them but surely your tuner would? Yes my statement is based on experience, the experience of throwing away dozens of sets to swap them for a Seimens injector of equivalent sizing and have perfect injector control from 500rpm up to a perfect spray pattern at 10,000rpm We have tested the Denso (SARD) injectors in most sizes and they usually come out at over 2ms. I'm pretty sure the Vipec will be unable to correct it as Link, Wolf, Motec and Autronic cannot.

Yes, mine are working

and +1 on overfilling the sump slightly (0.5 - 1L) at track events. But make sure you have a good catch can setup and check it every 5 laps or so if you can. You'll get to know what your car can handle once you have spent some time out and about

Most of the failed N1 pumps I have seen are accompanied by an equally failed harmonic balancer. At 8000rpm, if you have even the slightest harmonic imbalance, you are going to hammer the living f**k out of that gear. They get larger, they cease to fit in the round hole they are designed to turn in and they start to grab, then they crack or break. I have seen many people successfully run N1 pumps and standard capacity sumps at the track and not have a problem. I have seen guys with Tomei pumps at the track have problems. It works both ways and it's not always about having the absolute most oil flow you can possibly imagine and all your problems will just waft away. The fact is, the N1 pump flows enough to cope with any amateur type racing events, but is your oil up to the task? If you are going to run the N1 pump, make sure you are using an extremely high pressure resistant oil that has a film strength higher than any other oil on the market - Royal Purple It never hurts to have a larger sump capacity and it never hurts to have more flow, at the end of the day, fuel and oil are two of the most important things you need. Who really cares about cost? Another engine rebuild is going to cost you a frig load more. Another fact is that the materials used to make the Nitto and Tomei pumps are much stronger than the material used to make the N1. They WILL handle more punishment and not break. They have a longer fatigue life due to the material they are made from. It's the same as the forged conrod argumement - yes the factory rod can handle a shit tonne of hp, no it will not last forever. The fatigue life of a forged rod is much much much longer than the factory rod, and for $600-$800 for a set, why would you stuff around putting old (possibly tired) parts back into your new engine? If it were me, and I was going to spend 2-3 days a year at the track and 80% of the time it will be a daily, I would leave the sump and put on the N1 pump. If I was going to be spending a day every 4-6 weeks at the track, I would invest the money into a Nitto item. They aren't that expensive and will take a hammering for years

Post to get on the mailing list. This is getting interesting. When I get home I'll put in my 40c

And yes I am aware it is late notice but due to it being a casual event, I thought it would be ok to put it here as well. Has been in the members forum for a couple of weeks now

Meet and Greet Hello everyone, I am setting up a bit of a meet and greet for lovers of all things automotive. I'm putting on a free sausage sizzle and drinks will be $1. Basically a chance for everyone to catch up or get to know each other. We're halfway to the Gold-coast from Brisbane so you can even stop in on your way down for the weekend cruising/Goldcoast visit. I will be holding it on the afternoon of Saturday the 26th of March. Starting at 2pm and running until after dark or everyone leaves. Some of our race cars will be on display (550rwhp R33 GTST and R33 GTR which is currently undergoing an engine rebuild) and a couple of the other cars we are currently working on including an 800hp R33GTR with custom paint and engine built and blueprinted in house by us. Answers are still free so if you want some free advice, myself, staff and enthusiasts will be here to help you . We are at Unit 2/7 Angel Rd Stapylton (Just off Jacob's Well Rd). Take Exit 38 off the highway at the BP Stapylton (Yatala), take the second exit on the round-about, then second right into Quarry Rd, then first right into Angel Rd. Hope to see you all there!

First thing you need to do is get rid of those shit bricks they call injectors. Test the ACTUAL latency on them (with an oscilloscope) and you'll find they'll be 2.2ms. I bet you have a really lumpy idle as well? That's because your tuner is trying to get the correct AFR at idle but can't due to the terrible latency those injectors have.

Saturday will be unreal. It's not going to be too hot. Chance of a shower LATE in the evening but I think between 2pm and 6pm down at Yatala it's going to be perfect BBQ weather. Free sausages are going to fall into hands everywhere and visions of automotive beauty will be had by all

Today was great, hot heaps done, weather was great! I look forward to tomorrow because I know it's going to be great too

Using EFI Performance for all your tuning would cancel out any need to contact anyone for anything.....ever I'm not kidding.

No matter what country you are in, the tune should not be done any differently. I don't really understand what you are after, is it the config file for setting up ignition angle etc, or an actual tune? If your tuner can't tune a car, then are they really best equipped for the job? They are no different to any other straight 6 on the planet really. Don't forget that injector latency will have a big effect on the colour of the bumper and if you use something with a 2ms delay, then you may not be able to get it any better than 12:1 at idle. If you try to tune it at 14.7:1 at idle, all it will do is throw fuel out the tailpipe.

Exactly. And people are still forgetting that whether they can feel it or not, a different weight flywheel DOES make a difference. It's physics. You cannot argue against it.

I wouldn't consider the gun to be weird. Doesn't everyone carry a glock 9mm around in their car?

Many a ship has been lost in that black hole too

Was it a gradual change in pedal feel etc, or sudden?