The Dan

blow up doll, in a bag, next to the spare tyre

Just gotta make sure the height of the pickup is ok and not too close to the pan floor, also not too far away. 5-10mm from the entry should be ok. Also with the added length you may have issues with vibration in the tube so get them to re-attach the other mounting strap that is on the stag pickup. It will strengthen it

That is correct

ok so here's the re-cap: Tin sump - just make a custom pickup (you can do this using the factory unit, just cut and reweld some extra bends) Alloy sump retaining 4WD - external method

sorry I forgot you are going the other way. You should be able to just make a custom pickup using 16mm stainless bends and keep it all inside the sump (if you are using the tin sump) If you are going the other way, the external method is the only way because of the position of the driveshaft through the centre

custom pickup in the base of the pan approx 1-2 inches back from centre....tube exiting the side of the sump to a fitting (-8 or similar), then hose from there to the exhaust side of the pump where you have to remove a welch plug and tap a thread. Put a -8 or similar AN fitting in the side of the pump and join that hose. Tap a thread in the back of the pump where it normally sucks the oil in and put in a flat blocker or welch plug. DO NOT WELD IT or you will distort the pump. Job done

No, why do you want to do this?

I thought I already mentioned it was standard

Whatever it is looks like it's still connected. Those bullet terminals aren't factory fitted

Does it have an oil cooler with a thermostat on it? or any other type of oil control device inline with the system?

Check the main fuse under the bonnet. They are the big ones with the clear cover. Should be a 30A

Unisia Jecs is the company that makes most of the electronic parts for your car. Looks factory but someone has added something to it at some stage....possibly a SAFC or a Rev/Speed meter os something similar

If he advertised it as a turbo part, he should not hesitate one bit in refunding your money and paying for return postage. Item is not as advertised.

See how you go I guess. I don't recall any guides getting to the point where they made stem seals leak or caused any other alignment issues. If you get valve stem seal leaks 12 months down the track, check that first

Not the thighs of someone rubbing on them?

I think you don't have a desk and this is all a ploy to make us think you are someone important! I knew as soon as someone mentioned 'that's what she said', you'd show up lol

I hope you didn't pay more than $650-$750 for all that gear coz that's what brand new siemens injectors would have cost you

We buy them from the engineer as blanks and he cuts them to size. Chilton Engineering - 07 3391 1672

Holy shit dude, just get injectors to suit your Neo.

It would be a methane sensor, not exhaust gas sensor like we traditionally know them

btw, it had to be done: www.horse-dyno.com.au

tug on the shaft to find out

I have yet to see how the supertech Manganese Bronze guides perform but I'm sure we'll find out soon enough. The fact is, there is absolutely NO REASON to use anything bronze for guides.

We have tried them all. Guide clearance after a few track days is usually a couple of thou larger at that point. On the street cars I have disassembled engines for. The one that was fitted with phosphorous bronze were better than the old style bronze guides but were still over clearance after only being built (by another workshop) within the last 12 months. We recently pulled our race engine apart from the GTR which had cast iron guides made by our engineer, Chilton Engineering in Woolloongabba, and after 2.5 years of continuous racing, the guid clearance is still perfect. Nissan use cast iron guides in all their engines from factory but usually after 10-15 years they are a thou or two over clearance on the exhaust side so we normally knock them out and have them redone

yes the green one is the correct one for you. Do the check 3 times and see how many different results you get