The Dan

You assume too much

^^ Not the way to make friends

you'll put almost 3L in the gearbox and about 1.6-1.7L in the diff EPX80w90 in the gearbox and LSX-90 in the diff is best for the cheap stuff Or Syntrans is pretty good also

As above - the ATTESSA system is extremely complex. Just the ECU side alone is a headf*k. Plus not many people know too much about it to be able to offer advise when you're half way through it so you'd be stuck if you started it and couldn't finish. GTS4 or GTR

Oh sorry, I didn't realise you took the time to go to the windows character program to type the little half (1/2) symbols. My bad Also if you are making more than 400hp at the wheels and using a button clutch it is a good idea to have one due to the explosive nature of cast iron when extreme sudden torque is applied

Radius should be 0.25-0.26m roughly as the clutch plate itself is 240mm in a standard skyline. I'm surprised you overlooked this as you clearly went to a lot of trouble with your cut and paste

Don't let that person work on your car

So why can you blow through it one way and not the other?

You seriously need to do more reading And to the others, he's not talking about making the skyline flywheel heavier to go up hills. The flywheel it has is perfectly matched to the size and power of the engine in standard form. It's an engineered part of the car as he said. Everyone focusing on the 'I can't feel it so it mustn't be there' idea, really shouldn't be commenting because they have no idea what they are talking about

These guys get it. 100% correct You're only looking at one aspect of the equation Yes, the dual mass flywheel is designed to remove resonance but it is also tuned to the car. The manufacturer engineers spring strength and cushioning into the DMF according to engine harmonic at various torque areas, drivetrain resonance and even things like tyre size and diff ratios etc. Flywheels do more than attach your clutch to the back of your engine so the guy who suggested that, stick to your day job as you clearly missed the point

No, I think you might be only considering one aspect of the equation here. It does reduce stored energy. That is a law of physics. On the other hand, lighter is always better....ALWAYS......for a track car If you value the way it drives and feels on the street, then don't go too light. Lighter is not bad, just too light can make it feel shit to drive, especially in traffic. I can tell you now, having a 3kg flywheel on a street car sucks arse to drive around town. Having it on a car that sees constant revs above 4k is nothing short of awesome

Regardless of what they suggest, it is still correct to run a diff in by doing figure 8's

+1 as above also if you drain out all the fluid you will need to bleed the master cylinder first, then the slave cylinder.

I must have the wrong thread here I thought it was the 400rwkw thread, not the 390rwkw thread. Can anyone link me please?

No wonder you made less on Willall's dyno, you did the run in Gear 0. The ratio must be a killer!!!

You should always use LSX90 regardless. LSD oil is always back compatible but non-LSD isn't forward compatible. Meaning you can use LSD oil in everything, you can't use non-LSD oil in everything

It's normal. Do the figure 8's. The chatter you are experiencing will quieten down considerably. Without doing this (as instructed in the Nismo instructions) you will not bed it in correctly. Nismo is a Japanese company, surely they found a place to do figure 8's. Try ringing them to ask where

+1 as above but also check/clean your AFM

Yep Only some of the R33's had large terminals fitted as the large battery was an 'option' I'm not allowed to trade on these forums but hypothetically if someone were to walk in and buy one they would leave $120 poorer

They are all LSD in the GTR's The difference is Vspec or not. Pretty sure fins=Vspec but I could be wrong You can take the diff out and remove the hat and see inside fairly easily.

Yes, if your R32 had ABS, the diff would have had a sensor in the front snout next to the pinion shaft and they are about that much longer. The only way you will be able to fix this is to buy a complete non-abs tailshaft

I carry the Bosch s3 ones. They suit all the Skylines and are sealed for boot placement as well.

Did you set it on it's soft setting or leave it on it's 'out of the box' medium setting? Also if you used the Veruspeed oil that 'should' come with it, it has no friction modifier in it so you may need to stop in to your local performance supplier like rocket industries, performance wholesale or other places like that to pick up a bottle of redline friction modifier. This will help to quieten it down. I see on pt3 what you said about the oil but it should get the Nismo oil straight out of the box. It will become less agressive over time but if it's truly annoying, you can adjust the centre from the R/R half shaft. Just drop the R/R (right rear)driveshaft where it meets the half shaft and put your socket (17 or 19mm from memory) into the hole and turn it anti clockwise. That will put it onto it's light setting. Also, if you didn't do figure 8's in a carpark or whatever for a half hour, it probably hasn't bed in completely yet either

Is it an RB20? I heard they do that at 5700rpm