The Dan

Yes, most definitely

Why was it off the road for a long time? What was done to it?

Did you try Nissan?

Do a search for High Energy in Google. http://highenergy.com.au/Text/1107333118875-4391/

Yes, Nissan should

If the sump was extended, then I would assume they welded it? If so, the seals should have been removed prior to putting the sump in the oven, so yes....you should replace them as they are damaged when removed.

damn that's even cheaper than the Justjap kits. What you are saying about the dust boots is correct also. A lot of people ask me this when they are considering a brake upgrade. As long as the proper maintenance is done when changing pads, they will perform well for many seasons

If you ring Nissan, you can buy what's called a turbo fitting kit. It comes with all the gaskets, o rings and washers you need to do the job. Always buy studs, just ask yourself 'Do you want to have to do it again?' Chances are, they will be fine but for $5 each, not worth the risk IMO

What air flow meters is it running. Stock ones would be maxxed by now so I'm assuming Z32's or something like that? Those turbos should be good for about 400kw at the wheels but only a few have made it there reliably. Also the injectors will be ok there but they are rubbish for idle mixtures as the latency sucks. And depending on the fuel pump as well, it just says bigger, doesn't say how big. The power is off for the boost it is running though. 20psi should be nearing 480-500hp from the ones we have done

Seriously what the f**k is your problem? Pull your head in I said for most basic users. You're still going to get better results with individual runner temps. If you are going to post noob personal attacks, make sure they are funny coz you f**ken bore me

Yeah even a single sensor at the collector is going to be enough for most basic users. Even the odd track goer

I don't find your pictures funny And I don't think your emoticon is witty Sure, you may be fine. But you all prance around like you know every scenario for every engine ever built. People will read this shit and think they have knowledge enough to do it themselves. Armed with the peace of mind that SAU forum goers have given them. Well I can tell you it's not that simple. Make jokes all you like and have your fun now. Yes your tuner is probably doing ok. If you don't have any idea of temps in your exhaust, at a minimum at the exit of the turbine, then you could probably make another 50-100hp at the wheels and not risk anything. Or.....you could already be running over 1000 degrees and not even know it. Knowing temps at the runner will not save your turbo, however. As we have found, a restrictive turbine housing creates so much of a heat build up, that 750 in the runner can mean over 1000 at the turbine. Then 1 inch back in the dump it will still drop at least 100degrees out. Tuning Noels car to 0.8 lambda with 7's in, cold start was f**ked, missfired its arse off, tuned to 0.95 lambda and egt's went from 600 to 750 at the cylinder head. The point I was making about it being a waste of time without EGT's is you are moving to E85 to make more power/torque, you aren't going to be tuning it to it's potential without knowing temp and, therefore, wasting your time

When people start blowing engines up all over the place, then maybe others will sit up and take notice. Just like all the v8 supercar teams did

If you don't run individual EGT's in each runner then don't bother using E85 coz you're wasting your time. You'll have no idea what temps you are at and therefore the tune could be miles off. Not so important with pump fuel as you can tune easily to AFR but with E85, every setup is potentially different which means one of you could be 1000deg egt and the next person with the same engine and turbo could be 600deg egts. 0.8 lambda doesn't run true in every case with E85, or at least that's what we found while having our cars tuned with it

How many of you guys are getting your tune done with EGT sensors in each port?

Royal Purple 10w40 can be used with any alcohol fuels but it is highly recommended to run the Racing oil if you want added protection from fuel dilution

That's exactly right. That is why when I give warranty it is under the condition that I run it in and it get's tuned where I say. When you take out all variables except the owner, it makes it fairly easy. But regardless of how an engine fails, the cause can usually be determined before the new engine is ready to go back together. That way, if the owner has stuffed something up, it can be diagnosed correctly so it doesn't happen again.

Inlet manifold is different

The GTR piston has a shorter pin height so you will also need to run a GTR crank. Anything more than 0.040 and you run a very high risk of splitting the block. The 87.5mm and 88mm pistons have to be used in an N1 block that has more block material to cope with the larger bore. Is the damage that bad that you can't just do a finish hone and run the same size? Often piston manufacturers make pistons in various sizes but all in the same size (if that makes sense). We often search through boxes of pistons at the supplier to get a set that is 0.001 or 0.0015 larger for that very reason

RX7's have a synchro in reverse gear. But to the OP, the clutch won't be your problem. Clamp the line to the slave cylinder and check pressure at the pedal. If the pedal falls away then you could have a master cylinder problem. The adjustment you have made could also be wrong. Remember that too much adjustment can also cause the gears to not engage and will also cause it to crunch in reverse/1st Cracked pedal box will cause it Broken pivot ball or throwout fork will cause it Detached throwout fork retaining spring will cause it Heavily damaged spigot can cause it 70k on an R34 and you can bet it won't be the clutch plate or cover. Still could be but it's the least likely of all the things. It would have to have a broken spring in the diaphragm or plate for it to not disengage properly

ANY drag racing or ANY kind whether or not it's once a year or once a day will require a button clutch or carbon clutch. Organic clutches cannot handle the burst heat delivered in a high rpm launch

No, this one is definitely better. He spelled 'losing' incorrectly in the thread title

The clutch that is best for you depends on what you are going to use the car for, not so much how much power you are making. Drag racing/Drifting and you should choose a carbotic button clutch. If you are just using it for street use then you will need something NPC's Bigmouth street clutch which will easily hold 400hp at the wheels but it's an organic plate so not as good for the drag launches. Circuit racing you can choose either. A HD Exedy will hold it for a month or so but they are not so good over 240rwkw. If you want an off the shelf clutch from Exedy that will hold 400hp then it will have to be at least the 5 puk ceramic button clutch. Exedy are the largest manufacturer of clutches in the world, so yes, they are good quality

Every car is different. Read the manual, adjust accordingly

Don't lie, you luv da skids!!