The Dan

You have a short circuit. It's going to be hard to give you advise on how to solve that one if you aren't electrically minded. I would start by isolating the 4WD controller you have or make sure that switch isn't grounding somewhere.

No, you are wrong once again. I am very willing to help. I offer advice on these forums all the time. Before I waste my precious time answering every silly question out there I merely asked if you were taking the piss. A simple 'NO' would have sufficed but you were too quick to lash out with your arrogant attitude. We can keep our track car stable at 6000rpm with 550hp at the wheels. It has good tyres. It has average suspension. If I put my foot all the way to the floor, yes it will easily step sideways in 4th at 110. No you can't f**king drive I wsn't being a smart ass in my first post So here's my big 'f**k OFF' to you

Quick to jump on the defensive much? Nice cover up. Pity he's a moderator and can clearly see what you originally wrote. Abusing the mods will get you no where. the reason I asked about a piss take is because it's the third thread in almost as many weeks I have read with someone asking this question. I have X amount of power and I keep skidding everywhere. Granted, the last guy was in the wet. I was only checking to make sure you weren't having a joke. There is ample responses above to give you the information you already wanted to hear. You only wanted people to tell you what you already knew. 1. Learn to drive 2. If you can't handle the power, down tune it until you get used to how to control it 3. Put on some better tyres option 3 will pretty much cancel out options 1 and 2.

Is this a piss take?

Sounds right. Set it to 20 deg on the HT lead. I thought that is what you were referring to as your primary. I realise now you were actually referring to the primary circuit wire.

Setting it from a primary lead on cyl 1 is the most accurate way. You can do it that way without problems. set it to 20 deg BTDC if it's a 32 or 33 GTR You can also set them by ear to get them close or a dial indicator if you have the proper equipment but that's a lot of stuffing around to set your timing. If you have a problem with the CAS, it may be off. Also what ECU are you running? Factory ECU I think the manual recommends that you disconnect the TPS when setting timing to put it in base timing mode.

turn your inductive pickup around the other way. Sometimes that makes a difference. There is also sometimes two loop wires, try the other one

Never had a forged engine use more than 200ml oil. Have had them over 600rwhp. There is no reason for a forged engine to use more. Who told you it would?

Not really. On the first one you will see higher levels of iron but nothing too serious. If the engine is assembled clean, then there should be nothing more than that. Doing an oil test after the first oil change (at say 500-750....or even 1000km) is probably the best way to go about it. Also with run ins, whenever I build an engine for a customer, I always do road run in. Dyno run in works but you need to factor in problems that may not appear in the first few hours of engine operation. Leaks etc. Take it slow. Do small runs at first and gradually go further after each check. Never leave the engine in one load point...always be accelerating or decelerating, never stay on cruise for too long and never idle for long. After 500km not so important. If you change the oil at 500km, you can drive it 100km more and do an oil test then if you like. Make sure you take the sample just after the engine has reached op temp otherwise any particles will settle. Never poke the tube all the way to the bottom of the sump either...for the same reason. You get the results back in a few days and hopefully you'll be near 1000km by then and ready for tuning

I have the results for Noels engine after 500km (same oil the whole time) and from memory the lead and copper were both under 1ppm Iron was about 25 or so (which you'd expect from ring bed in) I have the results on the computer at work so if I get a chance/remember, I'll post them up Any amount of lead is bad. The crank should not make contact with the bearings so the lead should be virtually non existent unless there is something chewing away at the top layer. Every 'oil starvation' failure I have seen has always shat the big ends, never the mains. The only time I have seen mains wear on every single one is: A: Customer fit clutch incorrectly causing the crank to be locked against the gearbox (twin plate). After 10,000km or so the thrust bearing took it's last rotation. ALL the mains were completely gone B: Girdle left loose by previous engine builder - every main was cactus Oil starvation will wear journals 3/4/5 first but due to the fact the mains feed oil to the big ends, even when starved, the mains are the first to get oil again and the big ends get starved more. Also due to the fact the big ends have 100 x the load on them and the squishing effect removes oil very quickly. It takes A LOT to blow every main. Then you said you have every big end pretty much ok. That tells me something was wrong with the mains, not just something WENT wrong. I know this isn't supposed to be an engine failure thread but hoping to give you a better understanding of what may have caused it. I personally use Wear Check Australia for our oil analysis. They cost ~$40 and are pretty clear to read. The results you showed were clearly engine fail but they suggested that it may have been normal for a running in engine. Lead and copper are big fail indicators. Iron not so much

Who left the main girdle loose? That's about the only way you could do that kind of damage - either that or incorrect clearances.....like miles off

what mph did the first two run?

In relation to the double fuel for E85 vs 98, I always allow for double flow. It's a general rule that 20-30% increase is expected with E85....sometimes 40%. We went from 4L/min up to 7.8L/min but also went up in hp at the same time. Then we tuned for EGT's and it has come back down most likely....but we didn't do a calculated fuel flow after the first one If you tune E85 with EGT's, in theory you shouldn't use any more than 98....without EGT's you would be tuning to around 0.8:1 Lambda. With EGT's you would find more like 0.95:1 Lambda is where it suits best. On that note, though, I definitely wouldn't recommend anyone tuning to those AFR's without EGT's in place.

We build these cars day in and day out. Some make more than others, some where the customer supplies shit injectors or whatever. Every car is different. You are only EVER going to get estimation when it comes to this sort of stuff. If you plan on making more than 450hp at the wheels on 98, consider a better fuel pump like the Pierburg which flows 6.5L/min

Well said

AFI

If I had an engine with those results after the 4th oil change, I'd be pulling it down. The results we get are different to those ones. obviously lead is the top babbit layer and copper is underneath. Tin is the back shell material. High levels of lead and copper are a bad sign. High levels of lead during run in are ok but if you get copper, that means you are wearing through the top layer of the bearing which shouldn't be happening. I would definitely NOT be taking it to another track day. I would bit the bullet and just pull the engine. You can save a lot of dollars if you do it now rather than later once it has completely failed.

Sorry didn't get time to call you Duncan. Seems like you got it under control though. Keep in mind, everyone, that ester based oils CANNOT be used with alcohol fuels. I have had a Motul rep in my shop telling me if we run E85 or Methanol that we are not allowed to run their oil as it will damage it. Redline uses the same ester base stocks so I assume they would be the same. Are you running E85 Duncan?

The nismo pump flows more than the 044. Not sure. The only way to know for sure is to calculate the fuel usage by knowing how many ms your injectors are open for at their peak value in the tune you have. So basically if you can tell me what the largest ms value is in your tune, then I can tell you how many L/min of fuel you are using. Your engine will consume more E85 than it will 98 so the pump will have to flow nearly double to achieve the same power.

Yeah have had a few make that much on a single 044. The fuel pump isn't the only piece in the puzzle though. Make sure you go slightly overkill on the injectors and make sure the tuner knows what he's doing. I recommend EFI Performance for tuning. Sean there is a tuning god second to none

Recommendation is above. Nismo use Denso injectors.

on E85 about 300hp at the wheels - tops on 98 about 500hp at the wheels - tops

You will regret the injector choice. Or maybe not if you don't know any better. Latency is not supposed to be the enemy and 2.2ms is gay when you are trying to tune idle

Who is tuning the car? Go with whatever system they are most comfortable with. As for injectors, anything around 500cc will be sufficient. I would recommend Siemens injectors This shit has been covered SO MANY TIMES

wolf v500 > nistune > apexi