The Dan

Seano try clearing your cookies.

Have you got a crush on me or something?

Then don't go to them or watch them? No need to be racist about it though

You bought a standard cam?

Some people like to make a big number on a dyno. Others like to drive in a straight line as fast as they can for a few seconds. Then there are others who like to drive fast around a circuit or get their car sideways on that circuit. What does it matter what people are into? Just because you're not into it, doesn't mean they need/want your approval.

With stock cams you are wasting your time thinking about advantages and disadvantages. You are only going to get so far and VCT will be better than anything you can time on a dual adjustable setup. Custom cams that are profiled specfically for an exact seperation etc are going to benefit from that.

Centre should be signal. The two on either side are not polar dependant as its for the heater element so they can be either way ground or positive

I put it in a seperate post so you wouldn't think I was talking to you. Obviously you need to read a bit slower. Calm down and take your time. My question would be - can anyone calculate that? It would be different every power stroke. My next question would be - does it matter and can you prove that it does?

No. VCT cannot ALWAYS compare to proper cam profiling and cam selection. But 90% of the time yes it will be better. The engine with adjustable cam gears may have been set up for response rather than peak power though. VCT is a combination of both - response and the ability to maintain peak power due to the lobe seperation and its variable nature

I would also like someone to explain how your torque plated engine means anything when your engine is actually running under power Static comp might be better or leakdown might be 1-2% better.....or worse. Dynamically, none of that matters. Your bore flexes like a barrel when you add cylinder pressure, heat and other factors. Your torque plate doesn't factor any of that

PMM race fords don't they? Their engines are based on the Windsor. Not sure about them doing their machine work in house or when that was or for how long because they were having multiple engine failures and employed the services of Hastings ring experts and tech guys from NZ to help them work out the failures. Chilton used to do their machine work as well so maybe this was all before then? They also used to use gapless rings which have also been proven to be a wank. NASCAR are advanced in technology (although some don't see it that way) but what's good for a NASCAR isn't always good for a street car or even a drag car. They are built for purpose and that purpose is unique to that sport. There aren't many secrets after a while and you won't catch F1 teams copying NASCAR and vice versa.

Not everyone like beer mate. Cocaine and hookers would have been a nice suggestion too

Lynch and burn? Who's in?

Your mph says you've got 300hp (~220kw)

Where are the corrections and other run data?

Your problem sounds hydraulic. Check to see if the fluid in the reservoir moves up and down when you push the clutch in and out. If it does then it's likely the front cup seal in the master is bypassing. If no luck there, peel back the boot on the slave cylinder and see if it pisses out. Either way it sounds like you might need to replace both. Unless of course they painted the engine bay and needed to remove the master....in which case it could be only an adjustment problem

Great. Lets do a test. I've got a couple of engines ready to put together. I'll document what I find.

If the bore is done perfectly parallel and the deck is perfectly perpendicular on both halves, a torque plate isn't going to change anything

Depends on how competent they are I guess. I use Chilton Engineering. His bores are better than perfect every time I get them back. We've never used torque plates and never will. They are for engines that have too much flex (like windsors - lol) I build an RB30 single cam that does mid 8's and a few 1Js that do low to flat 9's and it doesn't seem to bother them at all haha. Maybe I'm just weird?

Torque plates are for Windsors

It's about time they fixed it too. Hopefully they address all the other issues and we might consider buying one

Yeah you can set dwell time but can only choose one figure for the entire rev range. In something like a Wolf V550 you can set coil charge time over RPM and also over battery voltage. It has a full tuning table for both at 125RPM intervals

Should go with the Liberty air shifter mate. You'll go faster than ever

Yeah, they only have a set coil charge time. This means if you want LS1 coils or any other host of reputable replacements that require 5ms charge time, you can't use them. Sean explains it like this: An engine at 6000rpm has 20ms between coil firings on one cylinder eg. Cyl 1 fires and 20 milliseconds later it fires again. The problem is the coil requires 5ms to fully saturate charge so there isn't enough time for it to fully charge again = MISFIRE! So what do you do? You reduce the charge time. But not by a little bit, you have to come down to 4ms because at 7000rpm there is even less time to get it going. Now this may/may not be a problem in 'some' of the platinum range (as we haven't tested all of them) but when you use them sequentially it's not so much a problem and when you use standard coils it's not a problem at all because they only require 2.5ms to charge. We are still finding problems with the platinum coil charge time dropping when you mash the throttle though ie. when you go from idle to full throttle or cruise to full throttle quickly, the charge time drops out the arse and it hesitates or misses. They all have it. It's the same sensor and disc. It has to do with the belt and sensor inside. Crank trigger is the only way to be able to fix it 100% Them refusing to fix it isn't the only problem. They don't back up their old products. If you take a link G3 to link and tell them it has a problem, they fix it. They offer support and whatever. The tech guy from Haltech actually said this to me 'The E11 is shit. Even we think it's shit. Upgrade to a Platinum and you won't have these issues' You'd think they would at least have SOME love for their old product. After all, some dealers are still selling them and it was only about 1.5-2 yrs ago they even released the Platinum from memory. E11's were still being brought to us up to a year after that - never used I also asked them why their 'Pro' series ECU didn't support the fitment of a crank trigger. Their response was that if it didn't come out standard on the car, it wasn't covered on their plugin range of ECU's. So I said it's basically a Nistune with a couple of extra inputs and outputs. He was offended by that. But what's the reality? What's 'Pro' about that? They told me their ECU's don't have the timing fluctuation problem so we don't need a crank trigger. We were fitting a trigger BECAUSE it had that problem. To have a crank trigger setup you need to use their Sports model which is a full wire in. I asked them why they didn't offer full adjustability in both models so people could do what they needed to and they said it was to reduce the support requirement. Fact is, if they don't give you all the extra bits, you won't ever (ever) need them so they don't ever have to provide support to you....ever

I've got an RB25 here that isn't built yet but is ready to measure and assemble. It has Ross Racing pistons, Eagle forged conrods, ARP main studs and ACL race series bearings. It doesn't have a crank collar fitted (I was going to go external sump) but I can have one fitted free of charge. Wanting $4.5k and will come with warranty. No cylinder head