The Dan

Yes it's a common problem but usually easily fixed by fitting a dual pulse disc in the CAS. Don't remember it being more than $100 and when your engine blows you'll kick yourself. Either that or you'll see your timing walk around 10-15 degrees in the top end and that'll be enough for you to make the decision to fix it

As above or have you checked the level? Thermo fans are gay considering how much air the factory fan pulls. Also make sure you are not just getting a false reading on your gauge. What gauge are you using?

Congratulations on the result. What exhaust manifolds are you running?

Have seen around 50psi. I've seen autos handle 250rwkw and heard of them breaking at 220rwkw About 50hp loss I think

nah I know, was moreso replying to what Zebra said

You forgot to add What car is used for: Street/Drag/Track Very important in port selection. And 265cfm is nothing for an RB25 head. We have made 480hp at the wheels on a stock head with pon cams. I'll try to get more information on flow etc for Noels head if Marty White will give them to us. It is also important that the flow specs are checked properly. Some people incorrectly check flow at the cylinder head face. 2 inches of tube should be added on the exhaust side to get correct flow on an RB cylinder head

different thread size again

huh? Both pumps ALREADY HAVE check valves on the end of them. Bosch put them in the box attached. Just wire in both pumps and have a mac valve as well to control your boost.

The bosch pump comes with a one way valve already on it. Get the banjo and cap from mercedes. Don't put it on a switch, that is a lot of stuffing around for no reason

Plus the EGT's out of the runner were only 750. It's when it got to the bottleneck at the end where we don't know what temps it was running.

Yeah it had been running for two days no problem on the street. Did (I think) 3 drag runs with pauses in between on the Saturday. We checked the spark plugs at the stop over and everything looked sweet - still does Then Noel did two back to back drag runs and it died at the end of the second run Yeah there is 18degrees in places where 0 degrees used to be so I am told. The tuner has a lot of experience with E85 and Methanol.

What I mean is will the 1.06 housing be enough to drop the temps. Consider this. What if the EGT's exceeded 1000degrees momentarily? Will the 1.06 rear be enough to drop that momentary heat rise to below 850? We spoke to Garrett in length and their answer was basically this: We give this charts based on standard vehicles. Noel's engine would be exceeding 100% efficiency. We cannot give accurate guidlines on turbine housing selection or turbo selection on heavily modified engines. ......Yes I did think wtf. If we swap to a 1.06, what if the housing temps get to 900? They are only rated to 900. It is too close for us to play around with it. I think also that the E85 MAY have something to do with the heat rise also. We are in fairly unchartered waters here with this new fuel and even though logically it shouldn't, I think it is having that added effect. The V8 supercar guys are having more trouble with engines blowing since the change to E85 than ever before. This is straight from their own mouths. And they believe it is due to the extra heat it is inducing. I don't know the technical details behind it but I am going to do more research and find out

It's not the power that creates the overheat, it's the restriction. And can you 100% guarantee that the 1.06 rear housing will be enough for him? Give him a guarantee and I'm sure he'll hold you to it. The fact is that we THINK the 1.06 will be enough but it's not good enough to think it will. We have to know it will. So if there are ppl who are making 550hp at the wheels on a 1.06 rear running 24psi and can give us turbine housing temps and comp wheel speeds, then I would love to hear from them

Yeah I thought that's what you may have meant. That's pretty much the idea he had also You can suggest it but I can tell you what Noel will tell me if I forward that suggestion: gof**kyaself - followed by a beating with a barbed wire stick We don't want to take any chances, the 1.06 rear MAY.....and I mean MAY be ok but Noel has made it quite clear that he does not want to do this next one on a maybe. He's been through too much already for me to make anything but absolute decisions. If we go back to a Garrett turbo it will be the GT3788R. This turbo made more hp than the T04Z and came on sooner by about 3-400rpm which is only a tiny bit laggier than the 35R but with the 4088 comp wheel it flows way more air. The housing is a T4 so gas restriction is at a minimum. It's either that or the Borg Warner turbo of equivalent size which has a tougher bearing assembly, billet comp wheel, turbine capable of higher temps and comes with provision for wheel speed sensor, had a built in recirc valve and is internally gated (yes it's a large gate and has been proven to work at high volume) I am personally worried about swapping to an unknown device (as in unknown to myself) but we still aren't ruling out Garretts option

Not always more timing as it's not really being limited by the boost at the moment. I think we are going to have to really sit down and consider all options. It's fair to say we have found the limit of this turbo. Hopefully knowing a benchmark will be all we need to move forward productively

well from what we can gather: 3L bottom end + GT3582R with 0.82A/R rear housing 750deg runner temps but possibly exceeding 950 degrees in the housing due to the size restriction. The bearing cage and everything around it was blue all the way to the comp side apparently. Considering an offer from Garrett but if he moves to the BW turbos it will be a 0.92A/R but better than that it will be a T4 footprint which means more gas flow and less heat. Unfortunately it means more hp which we don't want

Deadly serious. Busted the bearing cage and sent the turbine flying into the exhaust. On a more positive note the engine survived it with minor abrasions. New bearings and a clean out and we're good to go. Waiting to hear what Garrett have to offer us before we make the next step

lunch time brain fart and I still can't think of the correct word. Radiators are also a type of heat exchanger but what I am trying to say is that the intercooler will absorb heat from the charge air on acceleration, then on decel a lot of that heat will be put back into the air stream. If you hook up temp sensors and monitor before and after you will see what I am talking about

The intercooler is a heat exchanger, not a radiator. The heat only transfers from the pipe/cooler into the air stream when you decel or idle. Almost the instant you mash the throttle the cool air coming from the intercooler is able to enter the engine without absorbing too much heat. If you were to HPC coat the inside and out, I'm sure you might get a small advantage but the cost would far outweigh the advantages

13ms injector time at 7500rpm

To give you an idea...Noel's setup makes 550rwhp and he chews through 7.8L/min of fuel at 7500rpm. He has 1600cc injectors at 81.25% duty cycle

You need to know how many ms your injectors are open for at their highest. Then you can work out how much fuel you are using......exactly to 0.1 of a L and then you will be able to determine if you double it, you'll have enough. General rule.....if your injectors are more than 50% duty now, then no they won't cut it

What HP are you making now, what fuel pump or pumps are you using, do you have a surge tank.....more information is required

Big enough for what?

It will be fine like that unless the Charcoal canister valve breaks and the gate stays shut. I would plumb it to another boost/vacuum source from the plenum like where the BOV goes or just on the one next to it. T piece is fine