The Dan

Stephen (Rush) did the stickers on our race cars. Quality second to none. 2 years on the side of the car and still not faded one bit. He also has wrapped his entire car in matt black vinyl. Very impressive

I don't know a single person with 190-200rwkw (because they usually have factory turbo still fitted) that can stop it from wheel spinning past 3k in the wet. Tyres will help, wheel alignment will help suspension will help.....it's always going to spin in the wet if you put your foot down.

I blew the head gasket 3 times in mine and the 4th bottle of sealup didn't fix it. Apparently it doesn't seal oil gallery vs cylinder leaks....only water ones. I got $40 for it in scrap metal. Well worth it.......still not cutting edge

That's almost double what you'd pay for the same clutch from NPC If you value your feet and your car then yes. May not explode like a grenade but the more over 300rwkw you are the higher the chance of it happening I hope AT LEAST you have the turbo 25 flywheel and not using the RB30 flywheel? Both are street cars

Lasers are a lot of things.....cutting edge isn't f**kin one of them!!

Easy fix. Buy Nismoids Laser and learn Gary's foot control. You will be the bane of wet roads. I can just see you taking corners at 20, 30 or even deadly 40's

Both our track cars make 550hp at the wheels. One a 33GTR and the other a 33GTST. Both use an NPC Bigmouth Track Single plate clutch. Various track and drag days have been done on them without issues. I have pulled both clutches out after events and they still look brand new. We have tested them to 610hp at the wheels but anything over that and you're on your own. You MUST run a billet flywheel!

Take it to a mechanic

The injectors should only have power while the ignition is on. If they have power all the time then either the injectors have burnt out internally or there is a problem with your main loom powers/earths. Check the main power wires, they run around the base of the strut tower on the turbo side and up to a large rectangle plug beside the power steering res. Make sure nothing is melted/grounded/joined to another wire. If you have a 12v power connected to the trigger wire, you'll still get continuity back to the ECU but you'll get constant power at that wire which means the injector will not pulse

The clutch booster will be the problem and they cost $200 from Nissan. If you think that's an arm and a leg then you should be driving a Daewoo

Yeah locking ring gear is the other accepted method

Yes please. As I understand it, dyno's can only measure torque and then calculate power from that

Yeah sorry that statement is completely wrong. I read his wrong and wrote mine wrong. I'm not going to say the T word any more. It's now a bad word

ABW make a tool for this. It's called a Power Bar. If you put your car in gear with the handbrake on and tighten it that way then you deserve what you get if you pop a gear. I've said it a million times before but one more for those that are new. I have seen it happen with my own eyes. Do it at your own risk. The powerbar can apply over 600ft/lb of torque to the bolt and it won't damage anything in the process. I will happily lend it if it means I can save a transmission

One more thing Drag cars - go and talk to any of the top door slammers and ask them when they change gears. Peak power or peak torque? You can even hear that they aren't peak revving them AFTER they get them off the line. It almost sounds like they shift early. Because the greatest RATE of acceleration is peak torque, therefore they change before it falls off so they remain in their maximum acceleration mark.

Power DOES NOT determine torque. It is the other way around. I'm going to leave this from here on. We are just going to keep going in circles. I'm totally with Birds on this one, he's got it completely right 100% The rest of you are correct with your gearing etc. they use it to overcome the lack of torque in different rev ranges. A diesel engine still one Lemans 24 hr last time and broke the records.....used less fuel than the rest and never revved over about 5000rpm from memory. Fastest acceleration from lowest + widest torque range and it pwned all these other cars that can rev to infinity AND make much more hp

No you are wrong there. The rate at which the power increases is at a lower amount. Yes it makes greater power, but the HP/sec generated is less. Look at the angle on the graph. Power climbs at a steeper angle when torque is greatest. Then when torque falls off, the power is still increasing but because there is less torque to overcome the resistance against it (rpm is a resistance to torque), the angle at which power is increasing becomes less. In other posts I see comments like power being work over time but that is also completely wrong. The very definition of torque is work over time. Power is then calculated from that torque.

Yes that is absolutely correct but your original argument is that torque does not tell you how the car will drive. I would have to say that hp is exactly the same because both rely on mechanical advantages to make them accelerate how the manufacturer wanted. But power is always calculated FROM torque so my argument is that torque is a very valid value to have included in the specs of any car. Torque is what you feel pushing you in the back. Early torque means it will be punchier from lower revs. Late torque means it makes more hp but it's laggier off the line

But you're talking about mechanical advantages again. I am talking about RATE OF ACCELERATION. If you were to measure how fast a car accelerates in M/s/s (meters per second per second) the greatest rate of acceleration occurs at peak torque. Yes the engine makes more horsepower at the higher rpm but the rate of acceleration declines as it meets wind resistance and rolling resistance etc. CVT transmissions hold the engine at 80-90% peak torque constantly until they reach top gear. Once they are at final ratio they continue through the rev range until redline - (this was in answer to the lancer guy btw)

Try to think of it this way: Two cars exactly the same in every way except one makes 400Nm of torque at 2000rpm and the other makes 400Nm of torque at 6000rpm. Apply an equal braking force of 1000N to each car pushing against the front of it. The car making 400Nm of torque at 2000rpm will not only start moving first but it will accelerate at a greater rate (eg. M/sec) until the other car can produce the equivalent torque. Forget gearing and mechanical advantage. Forget about what is going to happen when the first car reaches 5000rpm. Torque is the engine's ability to overcome the resistance against it. Dyno's measure torque. They do not measure power. Power is calculated from torque. It is more important to know how much torque you are making and when in the rev range then it is to know how much power you are making when in the rev range.

Seriously pull your head in mate. I am not arguing with you on this because I have work to do. This is the last post I make until I HAVE TIME TO DO SO. It's not because I can't argue to your so called valid points, I don't have the time to.

No, I'm not saying that. If the Skyline makes 320Nm at 6000 rpm and the VW makes 320Nm at 1750 then the rate of acceleration for both vehicles will be identical when making that much torque as long as both cars are geared identically and they weigh the same

You all need to read this: http://www.4x4abc.com/jeep101/torque.html I don't have time to sit here and explain it all

You're talking in complete opposites. Torque is how quickly it will accelerate...not power

No not really. Towing has more to do with torque than power. Torwue and Power ARE two individual things. Yes they have a relationship but RPM works against torque. So the car making 400nm of torque at 2000rpm will accelerate quicker than the one making 400nm of torque at 6000rpm. At the same time, though, the first car will have power fall over fairly early because RPM will kill it. The second car will continue to pull at the same RATE of acceleration long after the first guy has changed gears. So which car is more usable on the street? Well both are intended for different purposes. Then we could start talking about VCT. VCT was designed for the sole purpose of widening the torque band over the rev range. This means the car accelerates at a greater rate for a longer period. Torque is applied in a very different way. And there is no multiplication required to work out Nm to actual torque. I think you might be referring to N which is short for Newtons of tractive effort.