The Dan

Yeah the rating that Bosch give them is (off the top of my head) 209Lph at 5bar. I have heard of them as high as 220Lph but never higher than that. Having said that, though, Noel's car made 530hp at the wheels on one bosch 044 at some stage. It consistently pulled 500rwhp in race events for a long time with one. He had SARD 800cc injectors but the pump was running out of flow as we couldn't make it any richer, the pressure would start dropping at full noise when we did. So I would say one Bosch pump is good for 600hp (500whp) give or take a few.

It's actually more like 200lph

The pumps are not just good for E85, they flow a shit tonne also. Highest flowing pump in it's application. They are factory fitted in AMG Mercedes Benz and the same company that designs and manufactures them makes the pump for the Veyron. The only currently available line that can be used 100% with E85 is the Teflon braid 200 series stuff. However the cost to get all the fittings crimped is astronomical so we went with what the sprint car guys are running and it's the blue Goodyear pusklock hose. It's not impervious but we will be changing it out each year. At $15 a meter it doesn't brake the budget. (Which is extra good for someone like Noel) EFI Performance sell the pumps as do we. They retail out for $450 each but I'm sure you can admire the price vs quality/flow (~350L/hr). I'll post up some more pics as soon as we're finished and let you guys know about the smell. Noel is unable to as both his sense of smell and ability to use intermanets has deteriorated since he turned 72

Certainly does. A surge tank is only an extension of the factory fuel system. We have engineers approval on that and a blue plate just in case I'll tell you when we start it

Noel's new fuel system includes: 2 x Pierburg fuel pumps flowing 6.5L/min at 5bar 1 x 4L surge tank 2 x cleanable fuel filters -6 hose in boot and complete underbody hard line mounting in -6 fuel line. 1 line for each pump 6 x New Series Indy Blue injectors ( not the old style ones ) 1 x Tomei fuel rail and a whole bunch of fittings that Noel cried about having to buy again

it's working now

Default Server: mygateway.ar7 Address: 192.168.1.1:53

Have deleted cache from browser, flushed dns, reset modem/router, danced a jig and still get the orange account suspended screen.

I'm pretty sure the thread for diff and gearbox will be around 18 x 1.5 or 20 x 1.5. The diff drain plug is the same and the gearbox one but it's 110% not a M12 x 1.25

Have you got any more information form the supplier in testing in an actual engine? I wouldn't mind seeing it pull the particles of Iron in a normal running engine. If it does what they say in an actual engine, then I would be interested and would probably take a few off your hands. The guy in the harley vid has massive particles of metal in that container. If you have that kind of material in your sump then you have more issues to worry about. The second vid shows a 'mock' sump with, once again, large particles of metal being poured in. In the lab tests we have done on engine oil from Gervase's race car and Noel's race car we generall see 15-20 ppm (parts per million) of iron, which is basically the only magnetic material it will have during wear. Considering oil is designed to suspend these particles I would be interested to see if it can pull these microscopic particles from the suspension of the oil. Do they have any videos of that?

500+ rwhp on two R33's running standard gearbox with 5 puk button clutches and have never broken a gearbox yet.

Are you getting an RPM signal from the ECU through the hand controller while cranking? If you have fuel pressure, injector pulse, coil packs firing and compression in the engine.....as long as the timing is correct then it will start. Try checking timing with a timing light while cranking to see what it comes up as

Forget that, already done. Ask for Craig and tell him you're a mate of mine

Yeah Springwood carry most of the stuff you need for your Skyline and even if not they can get it quickly from Japan. I'll ring Joel and tell him you're coming if you want me to tee up some trade price love?

did you actually ring Nissan? or just assume it would be dear? $34.50 and in stock at the springwood store. I'd say it's a commonly sold part and $35 isn't something to cringe about

Just go to Repco and buy a new grommet. Have bought many before

To start with you will need to source a new crank. The one you have cannot/should not be repaired. If anyone tells you otherwise, then you can automatically slot yourself into the engine failure bracket with the rest of them. Basically a straight rebuild as a freshen up will cost you about $5k but it really depends on what you are doing. Rings and bearings can just be thrown in without too much cost but to do a thorough freshen up, there is a fair bit more to it.

Is that a 4A block? different pistons for different engines but the ones up top in your first post are forged

This is also true but still normal for these engines to run rich at peak torque or midrange. Anything less will usually kill them

rich - yes.....fouled - no Pull out any turbo spark plug and it will look like that. The black is normal. The centre of the plug tells you what condition the cylinder is running in. White is lean and black is rich, light brown is perfect. If it has deposits on the outer and/or centre electrode (which it does have tiny amounts) it would usually indicate poor fuel quality/additives or slight burning of oil but I think it would be fuel moreso in this case

a 3" 100 cell is fine. You only need a 4" 100 cell if you are going to push out over 400rwkw If you want to do it right the first time then listen to the guys at CES - they are undoubtedly the best in the industry

Also, if you wanna do burnouts - you are going to continuously wreck diffs and gearboxes so save up to replace these often unless you invest in a really good quality oil like Royal Purple or Motul Competition

+1 Cluster shaft bearings. If the noise goes away in 4th that is the only time torque is not being transfered through the cluster shaft. Gearbox rebuild. Unless you have the pullers required, you won't be able to disassemble it

How is that rich fouled? The black around the ring is normal for any turboed engine. The center is where you should be looking Yeah I was joking lmao

Yes the thread on the rod that goes through the fork that attaches to the clutch pedal. If you haven't gone far enough, then it will be wrong.....if you went too far, then it will be wrong. There is really no way to describe how to adjust it correctly (well there is but I'm not going to type an essay here as there's too much information) What I can tell you is if the pedal feels like there is nothing there until the very bottom then you need to wind the rod out of the fork more. Or if the pedal feels like it has pressure from the very top but it still doesn't disengage the clutch then you have gone too far and are blocking the recovery port inside the master cylinder so it doesn't work how it should. Learning is fun aint it.