The Dan

Looks fine. Can you take a higher res photo?

Did you adjust the master pushrod? The master you have on it should work. You have not set it up correctly

Yes the GTR fuel rails fit. You 'may' have to trim the spacer depending on the injector you use though.

A group buy is supposed to be about providing parts to the Skyline community to save them money. I'm pretty sure Kudos (forum trader) sell these at the same or cheaper price. Fairly sure 999 sell them at that price individually as well and I only just raised my price on the racing kits to $300. Your friend at Repco is going to have to do much better than that. Unless you are trying to make a few dollars yourself....which is not really the purpose of the group buy idea

Wow, I should bump my prices up

It can only be the tune or the car.....either way the dyno is there to tell you. The fuel consumption is not normal so just mention that and take it back to have it checked. The tuner can't fix it if he's not aware of the problem. You may kill two birds with one stone

Not only that but the RB20 box is only about 3mm longer than the RB25 box so no length adjustment is required at all

Put it back on his dyno or pay to put it on someone elses dyno. I don't see that you have too many options. And if it's a simple fix or something wrong in the tune, I doubt you'd be paying for it.

Yeah those Nitto cranks are good for 12k apparently. Well so Nitto tell me

We rev our race cars to 8500 and 8800rpm. I have friends who rev their RB26's to 10k and the Nitto R34 would have to rev somewhere close to 11 or 12. Forged crank if you wanna go over 9000. Harmonic balancer upgrade, oil pump upgrade...etc....etc...where do you want to stop? You should just tell us how far you want to rev your engine and we can tell you what you need to upgrade to safely do it

The factory redline is 7500 isn't it? Plus the turbo wouldn't make more power past 7000rpm I would imagine so there is really no sense shifting after that point

Until you ring the person who built the engine. Fact is, there is no use keeping that stuff a secret. It's all been done before. Only the tune is different. People have been making over 1k for many years, it's just a matter or how many more are coming up

I'll bet its fun. What secret spec cams are you running?

I'm glad you have raised these points as I am quite happy to elaborate. I'm not trying to defame anyone on here. It's not defamation if it's true and we have hard facts to prove it. He tried to bullshit his way out of responsibility when Noel's exploded and Noel just didn't have the energy to fight it. I'm here to educate as many ppl as I can and until he changes the way he makes his clutches, I'll continue to do so. His clutches can be dangerous. I am the last person who wants to see a death as a result of him using second hand parts. and yes....he uses second hand parts to build them. Several cars have been victim to one of his exploding clutches but no one ever says anything. Everybody is too busy prancing around listening to his bullshit stories about dowels and bolts. All of the clutches built by Exedy and NPC (not sure about Direct clutch) undergo burst testing as required by Australian standards. The whole reason why they ditched the non-nodular cast iron pressure plates is because when they introduced burst testing, they didn't pass. These pressure plates are in all the early Skylines. These covers are getting harder to find so more and more of the clutches coming out of that place will eventually be able to withstand the hard loading that they are apparently designed for but who knows when you'll get an old shitty one? I've got photos around somewhere I'll be happy to post them up if you want to see the destruction. Not only that but you pay $1100 for a clutch that should retail for $6-700 As for adjusting the clutch, yes, it's incredibly easy to adjust the free travel at the pedal end. I'm not talking about the pedal adjustment. I'm talking about adjusting the cover height which can only be done when building the clutch. yes you can directly use the pull type cover from the 33GTR and adjust the pedal to suit but it will still be a shithouse feel. I'd be happy to talk with any of the mechanics you want. I spent a decade in the brake and clutch industry. Think of it this way..... 10,000 ppl could eat at a restaurant. 5 or 6 ppl you know who went there got severe food poisoning. Then another friend says 'Hey I wanna go to that restaurant'....would you tell them go for it? or would you educate them and tell them there is a possible risk? We have discussed this many times in these forums. I would actually REALLY REAAAAAAALY like Jim to come here and tell me why I'm wrong. I would hand him his arse on a platter coz that guy will kill someone one day and he bloody knows it

You wouldn't be able to use it anyway, it's a water pump

Oh so you need to know where oil comes out and goes back in? Flow is into the outside edge of the filter and returns into the centre. You should be able to work it out from there

Even if you know the answer to the question, how are you even going to test it?

Don't take on a setup like this unless you have $50,000 to spend. This $50k can be spent two ways: 1. Really good setup with all the correct parts and advice and you'll do 9's all day. You won't crack 8's because you need the chassis set up properly and the cost doubles 2. Buy all the cheap shit parts around to get it to work and spend $50k fixing your setup for every time it breaks

No, absolutely nothing to do with flywheel. Noel had the billet aftermarket one. It was the second hand cover/pressure plate that exploded like a grenade and nearly wrote the car off.

Gasket between turbo and manifold or the manifold to cylinder head. The ticking usually indicates the latter. Cylinder 6 port is probably leaking.

Workshops don't have to give warranty on performance engines. Standard engines - yes......modified engines - no. This is why a lot of the workshops around get away with dodgey rebuilds. I've had to clean up a few from other places

Yes the cover is the pressure plate. The pressure plate is actually part of the clutch cover. It's the thick metal disc in the centre. It should pick up just before the half way mark usually. It can be adjusted but when using the standard 33 GTR cover it tends to engage right on the floor even when at maximum adjustment. The height of the cover vs the pressure plate needs to be changed and you wouldn't know by looking at it. You would only know if you ask the person building the clutch to modify it. Don't get me wrong, it WILL still drive but it just doesn't feel as good as it should unless you modify it

I've seen standard CA18's run 56psi and 100+ dyno runs. Standard head gasket, standard NA pistons etc etc. I didn't believe it when I heard but then I saw it with my own eyes. What these guys are all telling you is true. You are probably asking the wrong question. If you want a turbo that can run 18psi and have almost factory response then you need a highflow or a GT2860RS

+1 actuator rods are too loose or the diaphragm is fubar

Not only that but the pull type 34 clutch is 250mm diameter as opposed to the 240mm 32 and 33 covers. R33 GTR cover is not all that needs to be done. The pedal engagement point is shithouse when using a straight GTR cover, it needs to be modified to make it feel the way it should as the heights are different. Why can't you run under 10's on a single plate clutch? We have them holding over 600hp at the wheels. Made by NPC of course. The only way you'd ever want a Jim Berry clutch is if you don't value your car/toes/legs as his second hand covers tend to explode when used in combination with slicks and over 450hp. Seco wouldn't be the pick of the cover brands. Exedy covers are much better quality. We have had more ppl come back with problems when using the RPM and Seco covers than we ever do with Exedy ones (customer supplied seco and RPM covers that is - we refuse to use them)