The Dan

Wasn't having a go at you. Just don't want to go back and forth and back and forth teaching you to do something without you actually knowing what I'm talking about. It's a waste of time otherwise.

500 hp will still cost you the same. The ONLY difference is the turbo and they are all within $100-$200 of each other in those sizes

You won't do it for anything less than 30k reliably. 20k if you don't build the engine or gearbox 15k if you buy everything from ebay but then it could go either way - maybe it works, maybe it doesn't, maybe it costs you another 10k to fix all the bad stuff

Sounds like the tailshaft centre bearing could be loose or worn out. Fairly unusual to be worn out on a Skyline that age so check to make sure it's not loose. Pretty much the middle of the car there is a joint there. Grab the tailshaft and push up and down. You should get some movement in the rubber but you shouldn't be able to bash it around like a parson's prick in a sugar bag. It could also be the diff mounts or excessive backlash in the diff itself. Get it checked by a professional if you aren't sure. Most should at least check it free of charge

Start an apprenticeship? lol jks. Unlock the 12mm locking nut and wind the pushrod away from the pedal (towards the master cylinder), so that you have more pushrod length between the master and pedal. Start by doing it 1 full turn at a time. If you adjust it too far you can make it not go into gear at all. Don't ask any more questions until you have 'actually looked under there'. Now go forth and conquer

You need to adjust the master cylinder pushrod under the dash

Is it a clunk or a crunch?

You don't need to point fingers. Just tell him to run it in, not f**k around with the idle on a very fresh engine. #1 way to kill a brand new engine = idle

Fixed

Please tell me that's not PWR?

Oh yeah and Haltech are ok too but I prefer not to use them because they lack a lot of functionality that the others have and even after being told about the problem several times they STILL haven't fixed their coil charge time issues. Once again, oscilloscope print outs were rejected by them. Then there's the fact you need to buy 40 little boxes to do the same thing as a single G4 or V550. Great marketing though. Best in the industry IMO

Nistune are pretty good mate. It all depends on the application. Some people have fairly heavily modified cars so we wouldn't suggest a Nistune to someone with massive cams and huge turbo etc because they don't have as many tuning points as something like a G4 or a V550 so the end result is usually a bitch to drive. Every car is different so we generally assess them as they come. I still won't recommend a Microtech to anyone but they do have their place. I don't want to start an ECU debate because everyone has their favourite for various reasons but at the end of the day it can all come down to a few key things: 1. Does it do what the customer needs it to do and does it do it reliably 2. Does the tuner the customer trusts have experience tuning that ECU 3. Does it fit into the budget requirements Obviously trading off any of these things means the final result will usually always be less than desirable. In my experience, the Wolf V550, Autronic and Link G4 are the three best ECUs on the market today (Motec is obviously up there but it falls well away from point #3 for 95% of us) Vipec automatically tags along with the G4 brand but I think there are still a few differences between the two?

I would also add that a lot of ECU problems (regardless of brand) can be due to poor wiring or poor installation.

Because they do exactly what they say they are going to do and they do it reliably. Don't get me wrong, I f**ken hate Microtech ECU's but they are built for an intended purpose. The LT10 and 12 were never designed to be a high end ECU so I'm not sure why the price tag but they have definitely been making cars go fast for more than a decade. They are shit to tune, yes. They have hardly any features or outputs/inputs, yes. There are much better ECU's on the market for most street applications, yes. Most Microtech street applications were born from small wallet syndrome so unfortunately they were applied to cars they shouldn't have been.

It's pretty hard to build a loose engine. Poor catch can setup, poor ventilation in general and lack of a PCV valve can all contribute to breathing like that (visual smokiness). The vapor coming from most breather filters is mainly steam. You can see the 'smoke' doesn't make it more than about 3 inches away from the filter before it dissipates.

You should be speaking with the tuner, not the engine builder. Why would the tuner be fixing idle on an engine that needs to be run in first? Running an engine in also requires more than 2500rpm to do correctly.

Deadly serious. Ventilation like that can be caused by a number of different reasons. Anything that runs methanol is going to vent like that and a lot that run E85 will also. It doesn't necessarily indicate there is a problem.

Has anyone run the engine in?

I'm not saying they are all the same injector. I'm saying it doesn't matter which injector is used, they are all the same ie. who cares....pick an injector. They all have a potential for problems but if you look after them accordingly and have them checked before you use them, you are less likely to have problems.

You should tell that to ID. I saw the invoice and the flow charts provided by ID. Pretty sure they were serialed too. This was about a year ago. Not sure if things have changed since then. We don't ever buy ID ourselves. I get all my injectors from a local supplier and never have a problem. Bosch, Siemens, ID...whatever. We get them all tested before using them anyway and due to the exceptionally good data logging on the new Wolf loggers, we can see problems before they become a problem. I think a lot of people are missing the point here. All these injectors are the same. There is no problems. Just get them checked before you fit them and take care of them appropriately according to what they are being used for.

The video you posted doesn't show any excessive blowby. It shows normal crankcase ventilation, however.

By my customers......and no, not from Ebay or any other reseller. There was nothing wrong with them, they just didn't work until we cleaned them

They were purchased directly from Injector Dynamics in the USA

The black connector in the second picture is for the knock sensor. The brown one in the top is for the idle control solenoid. You should have put a question for each picture because the first question seems like you're asking about the brown plug. Anything under 20psi boost and 400hp stay with the standard head bolts. ARP for anything above that.

No. We've had two full sets of brand new ID's dead out of the box. Read above. It's all explained there