The Dan

Any numbers on the centre cartridge? Near the oil feed. A tag of some sorts?

you sure it's T3?

155nm

Forget about CR. It has nothing to do with that Unless the machinist took off like 0.5mm.....but even then, the head would be pretty f**ked anyway. You can't take off that much material. The only reason that much material would need to be removed is if it had a MASSIVE warp in it, which it wouldn't have had. I cooked my old cylinder head years ago so bad that it MELTED THE COIL PACKS and even that would only have required a 15thou cut to level it Your problem is located elsewhere

Trigger angle is the angle before/after the trigger at which the coil/injection fires. If the figures are wrong or the setup in the ECU was changed, this means your timing will be way off. Try checking the timing while it's on power on the dyno.

What ECU? Have you checked the trigger angle is correct?

A head skim is only going to take off 5 thou. 10 thou is considered heavy. None of this 0.25mm crap. Just because you made more hp before the head was ported, doesn't mean the person you got to port it knew wtf they were doing. Most instances they have no frickin idea and do more harm than good....like opening up the ports too far....I'd be worrying less about CR and focus more on the actual cause of the detonation.

+1 on everything except the last sentence Stock Rb25's are ok to 500hp at the wheels if revs are kept to sensible levels And providing you get it tuned by someone who knows what the f**k they are doing

Check AFM's and O2 Sensors. Also check for vac/boost leaks The ex temps are cooler because more fuel is being injected. The injector duty is up because the ECU thinks it needs more. What a/f ratio gauge is it? Narrow band? or do you have a 4 or 5 wire wide band fitted?

It's not a better option and there is no way they can prove that it is.....basically, an RB26DETT gearbox is an RB25DET gearbox with a transfer case on the back. Not only do you have more weight hanging off the back due to the Attessa clutch drum, but you have also got to factor in the cost of modifying your tailshaft as the GTR one is different. The clutches are the same as long as you get an R32 GTR gearbox pre 07/91 and it's a push type. They are all the same....RB20, 25, 26 etc. There is no strength gain from going to RB26 gearbox as the internals are identical to RB25. I just find it awkward that you would want to hack apart a GTR gearbox when it will cost roughly the same to buy an RB25 one that will go straight in, will be as strong, and will not have as much rotational mass to turn as the butchered GTR one. On the subject of why a GTR box is not going to be as strong....that is only true for second hand ones that have not been rebuilt. Because more torque and more revs are usually put through them, 2nd, 3rd and 5th synchros cop a punishment...but that goes the same mostly for the RB25 ones getting around. As soon as ppl stop paying $1500+ for f**ked RB25 boxes, then the prices will start coming down to 'fair' levels.

+1 for S2 turbo and R34 GTT turbos both have Nylon(or could be baker-lite) compressors

Yes, you can do that or injector plugs....whichever is easier to get to. Then once you have found the cylinder, you can then move to finding whether it is spark, fuel or compression

there is no code for a hole in a non-structural area. The only thing you can do is put it under 'Chassis Mod' but it's not the correct code for it. And yes, before you ask...I have the code of practice here

Why would you butcher a perfectly good GTR gearbox? Just get an RB25DET one, they are the same inside

find what cylinder it is missfiring on first

No one's doubting that it 'can' happen. But the back end is more likely to go before the front end. And no one is winding up turbos or crying about it. The topic of 'safe' boost levels for these turbos has been covered a million times before. The question was how high can one go?

I don't think you can trust a rod that doesn't have laser etching

Have you got their contact details?

+1 they are glued on. So the heat generated and the turbine speed cause them to spin right off

Shut the gate completely and watch them go over 40psi

My suggestion would be to work out why you need camshafts in the first place. What are you trying to achieve?

Unfortunately those pistons are discoloured on all sides and all pistons. That is pure age mate. I understand what it's like to want to find answers when it comes to engine failures but you can see by the burn on the ring land and down the skirt that it has been happening for quite a while. That's carbon baked in.

poor ring sealing nothing to do with tune as long as the piston wasn't melted. Better photos could get better diagnosis

Don't forget, guys, that it's a dry cell battery he is talking about. These need to be charge-discharged slowly. It's a special process that can only be achieved with smart chargers. It will charge the battery, sure, but it will fail quickly if you keep charging it like that

I don't think they'll hear it unless it's on a hill