The Dan

I would start by moving your battery to the right hand side like everyone elses. And no there is not supposed to be a hole there.....and no the guy at QLD transport doesn't know what the f**k he is talking about because it has nothing to do with structural strength and does not effect the roadworthiness of the vehicle. Tell him to re-educate himself

Bleed your cooling system and make sure the heater is turned on when you do so and try to do it on a hill so the air moves towards the front of the engine. Sounds like the water is moving about. It's the sound it will make when air is travelling through the system.

Did you get a cam card when you bought them? And 272 degree cams are best suited to turbos of the 2860-5 or T04Z size and will give you only mid to higher rpm efficiency, standard cams are most efficient at lower rpm being only 238 and 240 degree.

300rwhp is not the limit of the RB20 box. It's the limit of an old one that get's changed in silly ways. I have 2 RB20 boxes I built in cars making over 400hp at the wheels......2 years and still together on one, 18 months on the other. And you'd be looking at approx 2750-2800rpm in 5th at 100 with the 25 box in place

Maybe read your first post again. I wasn't taking a stab at you, merely reading a post that kept saying 'I this' and 'I that' And qualified doesn't always mean qualified mechanics, it means maybe take it somewhere like ABS - A brake and clutch specialist. If someone knows how to test the system properly, they will find it straight away, not just say 'oh the next step is....' Find the problem....fix it

Are you just rebuilding things randomly or are you actually getting the problem diagnosed? Take it to someone qualified and you might get it fixed once and for all

1047.6hp

Have you ever built an engine before? You should be taking the bearing measurements prior to fitment and use a micrometer. How are you measuring bearing clearances?

when you have the torque wrench in your hand and and you click 50nm onto that rod bolt, tell me then that you think it feels like too much. I reckon it feels like not enough. But it's not a matter of how many nm or ft/lb required, it all comes down to bolt stretch. If you have a stretch gauge, torque them down til you see 0.006 stretch and that will be spot on.

Also I have run this on two RB25 engines that still used factory rods and bolts and they are both over 80,000k old without issues

I got that from the factory manual......and I didn't say ft/lb....it's 50nm

Factory rod bolts and main bolts 50nm for both. FSM says torque in kg/cm2 or something....nothing about 60 degrees. If you have aftermarket rod bolts/rods or main studs then these settings will be different

+1 Spark plug is going to have f**k all effect on cold start - unless it's fouled of course

It's hooked up correctly, but the factory hookup would work the same with that can....even with ss wool inside

With all due respect, there is no one correct plug for any engine or power. The only correct way to determine what is the best plug for your application is to start with one, run it for 5000 and pull it out to see what she looks like. It is a good idea to see what others are running, though, so you know roughly where to start from. But where hp vs heat range is concerned, due to the colder burn of the ethanol, you'd be able to go back to a factory recommended heat range and work it from there.

Those heart sunnies are the shizzle. Where can I get some?

It's likely it'll be days before I could get some and even then I'll probably forget. It sounds more like pushrod adjustment on the master cylinder. Why not take it to a professional? Better than guessing

Pics? There's an easier way if you haven't completely drained the whole system. From the slave cylinder only - crack the bleed nipple, push the throwout fork towards the cylinder (forcing the pushrod into the slave)....while it's in, close the bleed nipple, then release the fork. The internal spring will force the piston in the slave out. This will draw the fluid through. rinse and repeat. If you really want photos I will post them up on the next one I do but it's really simple if you follow the instructions in the top post or this one. The only problem with the second way is that if the fluid was completely drained dry, you will need to bleed the master first, then gravity bleed til it comes out the slave, then follow the instructions in this post.

Why is he wanting a standard flywheel? Don't you already have one? What's the clutch setting you back $ wise?

They have a washer. Parallel flat ones. Nissan should be able to get them or you can use any washer really. If it's not going to be punching out more than say 300rwkw and you aren't doing hard launches on slicks etc.

Re doing the battery earths was a good idea!

No one is suggesting you replace the fuel pump.....test it first....or get it tested

These are not your problems. The AAC is only active on cold start, the IAC and AAC are both null and void when you crack the throttle anyway and the TPS voltage is fine. Have you checked to see what the fuel pump is doing yet? Also, block off or cancel out the charcoal canister to see if that does anything for you

You made the right choice.....swapping a ford for a nissan. The clutch fan will pull more air than the best thermos you can get. Leave it there. The hp gain is easily offset in the temperature rise which lowers your hp anyway. 5hp for 2hp....not worth it. Fords need all the help they can get

Why do you want thermos?