The Dan

No, they are supposed to go to the charcoal canister over on the passenger side front behind the headlight. They won't cause problems disconnected but they do need to be hooked up for pollution control. If cops pull you up, you could get a nasty fine

What is the fuel pump doing when you touch the accelerator? Put on a pressure gauge and see if the pressure drops. Also check for vac leaks but if it's pulling strong, then this may not be your problem. Failing that, take it back to whomever installed the alarm and tell them it's playing up since the install. I have seen alarms temporarily cut power to fuel pumps when they piggyback the power sources from low load items.

Power, earth and signal are your only options Turn the key on to find power. The earth is as simple as a continuity check with ground and the signal will be somewhere between 0.2 and 4v depending on where it is positioned but usually the N/A will spring back to around that 0.5v mark The GTR has the two plugs, one is part of the body (Throttle switch - for attessa [and ALSD in R33 models]) which you will not need to use. The other one has a small loom attached and a 3 pin plug. The middle pin is signal. Looking into the plug, pin 1 ( on the left ) is 5V power and pin 3 (on the right) is ground Hope this helps

Ok so find out if it was just 'we need your car for 3 days' or 'we need to have it on the dyno for 3 continuous days'. I'd say they would just need the car for 3 days to get cold start right etc. Even a sloppy tune only takes an hour from start til finish. A good tune depends on the car, tuner, dyno but some can take up to 8hr, some more depending on functions you want.....but 8 hrs would be pretty much the limit as long as there were no major dramas

LOL when the snout of your crank snaps off. It'd be a cold day in hell before I'd weld anywhere near the end of a crankshaft. Considering you can take a crankshaft into Chilton engineering and have the collar supplied and fitted for around $220-$240, why would you even consider something like welding?

Check the fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. It ahs probably shat a slave cylinder

Have a look under the car. If the slave cylinder pushrod pushes towards the back of the car, then it's push type, if it pushes towards the front of the car, then it's pull

Sorry, probably bad wording in the previous post. It doesn't shoot off when the factory one falls over, it makes more power all over, it just comes on at the same time

talking about response here. Not power The Disco craps on the factory turbo, but before it makes it's power the lines trace each other for response, then the Disco says goodbye

Yes that is correct, Garrett don't make any T3 housings for them but both Sonic and AVO do. The sonic housings are a cleaner casting though. Have bolted a couple of these on to RB20's now so no comparison of response can be made against a 25 but I can tell you now that when the power curve from the Disco was overlayed against the factory turbo, they run on top of each other until the disco starts shooting up over the top of it when the 20 turbo runs out of puff. Roughly $1900 for the disco with a Sonic housing, water and oil line kit, adaptors and new studs all over. It even matches the power output of a highflow but has the response of a factory turbo. EDIT: The Sonic housings are 0.73 also

No it has nothing to do with N/A and Turbo, the oil pumps are the same. The garrett turbo you have does not have any 2mm restrictor in place. It has an oil inlet that is approx 2 or 3mm in diameter, then on the side of the tube internally it has a 0.8mm hole that feeds oil to the bearings. You DO NOT need to add anything except it is recommended to put a filter inline to protect the turbo against oil contamination as suggested above. You can add as many restrictors as you like, but you will slow the oil down that is heading to the inbuilt one. This will reduce oil flow to the turbo and possibly damage it. The only sure fire way to know is to doa flow test from the return pipe and contact Garret to find out what that particulat turbo needs to have as oil flow. You will find it will be within their specs with the inbuilt one

That is incorrect. The 0.8mm restrictor is in the side of the one you are looking at. You don't need to add anything. All this is covered in the other thread if you read it

battery faulty or dead. Starter motor drawing too much current. Check earths, check cranking voltages. If the cas works when you turn it manually, but not when cranking, then it's usually a case of voltage drop when cranking

8th result down after a search for restrictor brings this up: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Oi...p;hl=restrictor

OMG we didn't just answer this question 5 minutes ago either. Use the search function

Yes they are insane. They are the most responsive turbo in their fram size. Including the GT25 range. I don't think anyone here has actually compared the flow charts for them to a 2530/35 otherwise they would reliase the Disco is a much better turbo for the job. Like was said above, smaller doesn't always mean better. And there is somthing to be said for MATCHING the right turbo to an engine, not just getting some tiny thing and saying 'oh it's sweet, it comes on hard at 2700' when the last part of that sentence ends like this: 'yeah but it drops off very quickly at 6000rpm' Disco will come on at the same time, gives you the potential for moe power when you want it and will pull all the way to redline.

+1. I was just about to say the same thing. The narrow band ones are a waste of time and by the time you see something on it, the event has been and gone. But yes, you can wire it to the narrowband signal wire that goes to the ecu. It's a copper wire with a clear shield usually. Don't remember you saying what model car you had though

Something else you should consider is the factory 12.5psi boost cut. Will cause major issues while at full boost. Although, it does sound like a vacuum leak causing the dodgey idle etc. Check for vacuum hoses that you might have not reconnected and check to make sure the timing has been set correctly. You may have just one problem causing everything or you may have a few problems all working together.

You have probably not bled the system properly, adjusted the pushrod on the master cylinder properly or there is another problem present

If the pedal feels normal, then it is likely to be the hydraulic system. Master or slave cylinder. Make sure the master cylinder has fluid in it. Make sure you take the lid off to look, don't just look from the outside

Not neccesarily more responsive. There MAY be 100rpm in it but the disco makes up for it with a better comp cover and then it also has the advantage of being able to turn up the wick when this guy decides he wants a bit more hp. And yes, no matter what he says now, he will want more later. 300hp is a rediculous power figure. You can easily do it on the standard turbo if you get it tuned properly

Why didn't you use the Z32 ECU from the 300zx? VCT can be used then

GT2860RS Disco Potato

Mate there are quite a few possibilities. I would just be taking it back to where it was done the other day. Could be clutch, fork, pivot ball, slave cylinder, master cylinder or pedal box. Pretty much every component. I guess the most important question to ask if I was going to ask one, would be, does the pedal feel normal or does it have no pressure behind it?

The reason is probably because he added fuel to compensate but because the pressure is dropping, he would have to add the rest of the injector duty and it still wouldn't do anything. The fact is, it doesn't matter how much you tell the injector to open and close, it will only deliver the amount of fuel according to the pressure behind it, and if you reduce that pressure, not only does the injector move below it's opearting pressure (and sometimes cease to even open properly at all) but it also messes up the spray pattern. Don't forget - unburnt fuel will also show up lean in your mixtures