The Dan

Does anyone know if this car actually runs a dropping resistor for the fuel pump? Not every car has one so I think it would be good to check. I think what was said before about boost rising and fuel pressure not rising with it is a fair call and I think the problem you will find is the factory FPR is not really up to the task. When more pressure is present in the manifold, the fuel pressure needs to increase with it. If you keep rail pressure at 52psi when it should be around 65 psi, it's only ever going to do one thing....go lean. The manifold pressure acting against the injector is equal to the equivalent amount of fuel pressure drop. This means you are basically doing the same thing as reducing the fuel pressure by 13psi Your injectors probably have enough scope to handle a small increase but I'm guessing at 13psi it's probably a little too much. Do as suggested with a return style system or find out another way to increase pressure in the system

Who rebuilt it?

Yeah a lot of people freak out when they see it. It's gas fumes created by the approx 10%-15% of leakdown that every engine has. Imagine the cylinder pressure once you throw in 15 to 20 psi of boost. On a 100psi regulated leakdown test you would see a value of approx 15 psi escaping. When you are cramming boost in and combustion pressure also, that increases to around 300psi cylinder pressure or there abouts possibly more. So you can have around 40-60 psi of pressure bypass the rings but not constantly. It's just little amounts as the combustion and stroke is so fast. Add 6 cylinders all doing the same thing and it's almost like a mini steam train if you leave the breathers off. With compression of 160psi on all 6, it sounds like you did a decent job of the build. It's when it starts blowing raw oil out that you need to be concerned.

You are being paranoid. It is fine. The engine is supposed to breath.

The restrictor is IN the turbo. If you are going to change to a journal bearing turbo, you will need more oil flow. Usually you can add a restrictor into the top of the turbo but you need to check oil flow through the drain when the engine is running. Check with your turbo manufacturer for oil flow specs required. They will know

Surely the mechanic who compression tested it also did a leakdown test afterwards to tell you WHY the compression is down right? If not, then get a second opinion. Sounds dodgey. I have replaced 2 comp test gauges in the last 4 years. They don't last forever

With what you have, assuming you don't have some silly laggy turbo, all the suns and moons align and there is a 30 knot SE wind, you can pull off an 11 with 250rwkw in that car but in reality, I would expect you to run somewhere around a 13.5. If you get many many passes in while you're there you may.....may get into high 12's......maybe

lol, yeah I'm only messing mate. There is plenty of threads on this subject already.

Actually no. 200 hp is well and truly enough to run 11's in a less than 800kg car.

Oh ok. Never used the 3bond orange but the stuff on any unopened RB is the grey one.

200hp

The 3Bond is grey. I know the orange stuff you are referring to but that is used for gearboxes by Toyota. Not crankcase.

Nissan use a product called 3Bond which is made in Japan. Can be obtained from Bearing Traders or some other places like Bursons. Not saying it's better than loctite but it's definitely better :0 Urethane based rather than silicon based. Plus Nissan, Toyota, Mazda and Subaru (to name a few) all use the same stuff. Loctite works fine if you can't get the 3Bond

Hmm definitely a very abnormal sound. Not deep enough to be big end.....slight possibilty of little end but usually that's a sharper knock than that. Take a photo of the sump if you can. I wouldn't mind seeing the dent. They gotta come up a fair way to impede flow. You were right before about the lines not mattering. It's a sandwich plate design with no relocator but the other two fittings on the side, I would still like to see the instruction sheet to be sure in case the block itself has a specific route. Does the oil cooler get warm with the engine? If it's getting warm once the engine is running for a couple of minutes, then it is flowing correctly. Other possibilities are broken valve spring or a shim that has come astray. I wouldn't be going to all the trouble of pulling the sump off yet. It is likely the camshaft will have to come out and chances are the dent is not that bad. Post the pic for us to see

I am unsure who you have been talking to but I don't know how you are going to do a 'pressure' test on the cylinder head when it is splash lubricated. I hope you are going to be getting it towed to the workshop also. Any driving will possibly ruin it. The frothing of the oil is usually caused when the oil lines are arse about. You want to make sure you ask the workshop very specific questions if the engine is cactus. If they have fitted it incorrectly then they are liable for any damages. If they did fit it correctly then there has to be another reason. If they are still unsure of what the noise is and everything is fitted correctly, then take a GOOD video of the noise and post it. I should be able to tell you what it is. Also, if the ticking noise comes only once revved, then it's most likely not going to be lifters

The part number you should be looking for is 43281 AA100 or 43281 AA000 but I don't have your VIN so it's not gauranteed.

To believe the injectors are firing is not good enough. Run the checks or take it to someone who can. A noid light will help you check for injector pulse. Have you actually checked spark on all 6 or just assumed they were firing? Make sure the ECU plug is pulled in straight as this is usually the first thing people stuff up when playing around. What was the last thing that you did to the car before the misfire appeared?

Sounds like you got some issues mate. Frothing of oil is exremely bad. Was the dent in the sump before the cooler went on? If so, why the problems now? General rule of thumb is if you change something and then a problem occurs, look to what you just changed

I believe Nissan is the only option for this. Approx $400 per side from memory

Oh ok. Yeah I didn't think you would have got laid.

See how lovely our admins are? He even provided links for you. You get laid last night or something? lol

The shockproof oil is made by redline and is very expensive. It CAN help sometimes but the last couple of cars I have put that stuff in, we have been having problems with it spitting it out when the box gets warm. You could try the Motul Gear FF - part # 18-502-01 as it can help sometimes. I have put that into a few tired boxes and it works well. If it doesn't, drain it out into a clean container so you can use it again after the rebuild. Put in dextron 3 in the meantime. Should improve it out of sight failing the motul. Alternatively, you might just have to shift slower

+1 indeed

R34 have solid lifters. Check your oil level. Make sure you are on flat ground

And yes the speedo drives are different