The Dan

Ageing box my friend. What's the bet you paid top dollar for it to? This should serve as another lesson to everyone else out there that a series one, or even series two gearbox IS NOT WORTH WHAT PEOPLE ARE SELLING THEM FOR. Sorry to hijack it abit there mate, just sick of hearing about people buying these things for $1500 and then having to fork out another $1300 to rebuild them. I hope you didn't pay more than that. You can try a different oil but it's not about how thick it is, it's how well the synchro operates in that oil. I wouls actually suggest a thinner oil like transmission fluid as it will help the synchro grab the gear easier. But be warned, it's a last stand and the gearbox may develop small leaks in about 6 months. Use the time to save for a rebuild

Dont waste your time with a second SMIC. Just save and do it once...properly. If you absolutely have to, the R34 SMIC is a small upgrade and fit straight in. R33 is the same as R32. This is very well documented throughout the site and is easy to find when searching

Could have the timing retarded as suggested in above post. It would get it very hot very quick. Just make sure also that you don't have an air lock in the cooling system at the turbo. Crack one of the lines and make sure there is water coming out, that way you'll know it's def getting water in there. But even no water wouldn't make it get excessively hot. The only thing water does is cool it down when it's really hot.

Garrett GT BB turbo's all have the restrictor built in. -5's included 0.8mm The only time you would need to restrict more is if you had an external oil pump that flowed like 40L/min at 2000rpm.

I don't really have the time to argue with yo any more. Do what you like. I just hope people think twice before doing things like this. I never said 'there's a 100% chance you will break something', all I am pointing out is that it's never a good idea to put anything into a cylinder that isn't supposed to be there. You might have no issues, ever, but for the home mechanic who is already bound to make a lot of small mistakes while trying to fix his own car, it is a very bad idea. It's just one more thing that can go wrong. You might have spent time as an Aero Engineer but it is completely different working on piston engines. Just because you have done so, doesn't mean you are unable to make errors. And even if you can do it your way and not make a mistake, does not mean this guy will do the same and get away with it. There is a simpler and safer way to do it. In answer to your question re. oil - the reason I mentioned it is because when the engine is creating torque, there is oil between the bearing and journal, right? well when the engine is stopped, there is little oil there to protect the bearing surface from micro bruising. Your argument of an RB20 and it's torque at 8500rpm is void as it has sufficient oil to protect it while it is rotating. Your comment after mine said: 'Lubrication isn't going to protect anything so I don't think you really have that much of an idea on how oil is going to protect a stationary part with such a small amount of force on it.' If YOU read back over what I said, you will notice that I was explaining that what you are doing is applying force to a bearing with no oil to protect it. Here it is so you don't have to scroll down: 'Do not suggest people put things down cylinders and are you aware of the kind of force you are applying to the rod, gudgeon pin and big end bearing? All with no oil to protect it' I don't need to attend night school. Maybe you should stick to aeroplanes.

To start with my qualification is as a mechanic. The torque an RB20 creates at 8500rpm with 20psi shoved in is balanced and the mass is rotating. It isn't having something jam up against it to stop it moving. The torque of 155nm is to be applied to the flywheel bolt when it is installed, add 10 or 20 years of heat and micro welding of metals and the torque required to crack that bolt would be at least 250nm. The engine running, with oil coating the bearing surface, does not have 250nm of torque pushing one way while it tries to fire the piston the other way. Have you ever built an engine? I'm guessing not. Are you aware that you can bend a rod in a vice just by torquing the big end bolts down? Are you aware that it only takes a small microscopic crack in the bearing surface (caused by the metals touching) to f**k it? To add to that, I never said oil was protecting the stationary part, I said EXACTLY THE OPPOSITE. So instead of getting all keyboard warrior on me, read first. Maybe putting rope down a cylinder works for you for doing valves. The only harm there is that there is an easier and safer way to do it without shoving foreign objects inside your cylinder. But you are suggesting applying torque against the stopped piston, not just holding the valve up. Ever pulled apart an engine that has hydraulic locked? I have Ever pulled apart an engine that hydraulic locked at idle? I have Ever seen a rod with a 0.004 bend in it from such a hydraulic lock? I have Does your magic RB20 make 250nm of torque at idle? No it doesn't. I'm not big noting myself and you never made a valid point. All you did is mention that is the method you use. I am not telling you to stop doing it. I am telling you to stop suggesting other people do it. It is a stupid idea. YES STUPID! IDEA! 1. to put foreign objects into your cylinder and 2. to jam a piston while applying torque to either end of the engine It's also a bit silly to bet your left testicle. I might collect on that.

No, the easiest way to do valve springs is to use compressed air to hold the valves up. Do not suggest people put things down cylinders and are you aware of the kind of force you are applying to the rod, gudgeon pin and big end bearing? All with no oil to protect it. It's a f**king stupid idea and if anyone does it, they need their frickin head examined.

Yeah man

RB20 and 25 hydraulic lifters are the same if that helps you

manifolds are the same, throttle bodies are different

Easiest and quickest way to get it undone and to do it up again (155nm torque btw) is to do the same as suggested above with a bolt in where the main gearbox bolt goes. Then get another bolt to go in where the clutch bolts go in. You can join the two with chain or get some wire and wrap it around a few times to hold them together. Can do the same to put it back together. DO NOT PUT ANYTHING DOWN YOUR CYLINDER!!

I can't believe you just suggested that

lol. Nah mate. I'll save you the extra phone call. 07 3290 7890. That's Highway Nissan. Easiest, cheapest and quickest way to get one for your 34.

Yeah, Nissan

12 8 4 1 5 9 13 11 7 3 2 6 10 14 NM: 40, 60, 80, 105 4 stages After you have torqued them down 4 stages, loosen each one, one at a time and retorque to 105. (This means, back number 1 off, retorque to 105, back number 2 off, retorque to 105 etc.)

sorry 2025-GTR yeah got my numbers mixed up. So yeah, part number you want is FS2025-GTR

FS2026-GTR ACL part number for the full gasket set including commetic head gasket. Should cost around $500-600

Then have you done a voltage output test on the AFM to diagnose it?

Have you replaced the AFM yet?

No but the sump does

Unless your motor is out of the car, there would be no point doing all that work for such a little gain. I only do it as a small aid due to the fact the 20 year old pump can do with a bit more oomph. The oil pressure increase is not really going to do too much for you. Also, there is no difference between a 26 pump and a 20 pump unless it's an N1.

yeah pretty much. Why's that?

I'm not 100% sure off the top of my head right now but is there a coil pack earth at the back of the cylinder head? S1 has it but just can't think about the S2. If that is not connected properly, then it may do that. Also, you may have cracked a spark plug if you have not installed them correctly

Well it was more so suggested because if he disconnects it and the car runs, then it's either a cooler pipe blown off or a faulty AFM. Narrows the search down somewhat and it's an easy check to do

Why not ?????