The Dan

yes, and the car will run with a blown cooler pipe 90% of the time after you have done this

Never had an issue mate. It's more or less just to help out a 15-20yo spring

This happens every time someone cleans their engine bay. Run the car, find which cylinder it is missfiring on and look around that area. If it's multiple cylinders, just run the car gently around the block a few times. Chances are it'll clear up. If not, try cleaning the AFM and air blowing the back of the injector plugs.

I normally use a M6 spring washer that I straighten. I think they are about 2mm thick and it get's you roughly 10-15psi on cold start and in the top end when hot but doesn't seem to make much of a difference at idle when hot though. If anything it might be 2-5psi idle/hot

If you have broken the locating D drive off the camshaft or the inside of the CAS, it can go in about 6 positions but the car will only start on 1. Yes, with the ign on, the injectors and coils will fire when you turn the CAS manually. If they do not, then you have a CAS problem. The rubber piece in the middle isn't supposed to turn but I have seen them do so and not cause issues. It is just a seal and has nothing to do with the operation of the unit. If the belt is out of alignment, you need to fix that before worrying about why the car won't start. If you have put aftermarket gears on when you did the timing belt, some of the cheaper ones come with two marks. You need to make sure you have the correct marks lined up. I assume because of your original post, though, that you had the car running after the timing belt was already in place anyway. Is the timing belt still in place? Do a compression test

It probably won't have a timing issue. It should still start with 2 teeth out. Look for a blown intercooler pipe or disconnect the AFM and see if it starts.

boo frickity hoo. He answered the question so cheer up and get over it. sheesh

I'm sorry but that is incorrect. The stock injectors don't make any power at all. They only spray fuel

belt is probably 1 tooth off

Not disagreeing with you here Paul, and anything that works for you has gotta be a good thing as you build a mean engine. The example you provided with the micrometer having an error? If measured properly and the micrometer calibrated correctly and the engineer all doing their job correctly, any error in a micrometer can be picked up without needing plasti gauge to back it up. If you use the same micrometer for the journal measurement as you do for the tunnel measurement, the micrometer doesn't even have to be accurate, it just has to be consistent.

A micrometer. for measuring the crankshaft and tunnel sizes. You need internal and external mics to do the job accurately

Problem #1

Here is the one with lead and copper showing Elite_Raci_571GG_Engine_6862022_Abnormal.pdf

Brisbane 07 3326 6300 Perth 08 9347 3244 Sydney 02 8784 8666

The restrictors used depends on the cylinder head and oil pump used. Neither of which you have stated. The name of the company that does the oil testing was mentioned only a few posts ago. They have places all over the country so what makes you think they aren't local? If your friend did not measure clearances, then don't let him touch it again as it sounds like he doesn't know what he is doing

1. The leak down test is not going to tell you shit about the oil pressure or the knock 2. 110 - 120 psi is rediculous. Should be up around 150-160. If you have some kind of special setup or whatever they can be as low as 140psi 3. What did your friend use to measure the bearing clearances and who did the machine work on the crank and block?

It's about 100ml - 150ml and comes with it's own return postage. You mail it off and they email the results

Contact Australian Laboratory Services ALS Wearcheck

An oil test is something that all of you should be doing as part of routine maintenance. They cost about $35 per test, results in about 48 hrs (usually) and they tell you everything - even if you have a dirty air filter You can pick up an engine failure before it happens. I have done an oil test when pressure dropped 5psi. The test showed raised levels of lead and copper, we drove the car for a week and did another test, the levels of copper and lead increased so we pulled the engine down. Scuffing on the bearings and slight wear on the thrust bearing. Absolutely no crank damage, bearings were all still intact but all showing signs of wear. We were able to get to it before it did any damage. Unfortunately for this one, there is a knock, whcih means the damage is probably already done.

You could always do an oil test first. But any time someone suggests that, it always the last thing that happens Chances are one of the bigend bearings has failed. If it happens in the first 1000km then you can pretty much look straight at your engine builder. If one wasn't torqued correctly then it could be something simple like that. Either way, not a good situation

You need an M10 x 1.5 x 70mm bolt. As stated above, no problems with the grade 10 bolts being used. Cap heads sit proud and can touch the timing cover so stay away from the grade 12 bolts if you can. There is no need to go that high anyway. Make sure the washer goes back under them

Not sure what that means Terry but no, it was not a new bolt. I was instructed by that customer to not replace the bearings...only the belt. The idler bolt was never touched and broke 3000km later. That was a factory bolt and yes it was tested and found to have multiple fractures throughout. I have all of these grade 8.8 bolts here ready to send off for MPI, just waiting for the oportunity.

lol

And no, don't just replace the clutch disc without doing the cover. It's half a job and you'll end up having to do it again in 6 months time or less. I couldn't count the number of people on both hands and feet who thought they could achieve a decent result by doing that and ended up coming back to use to get the job done again.