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The Dan

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Everything posted by The Dan

  1. Top hose in the pic that is broken - get it from Nissan (Usually the first place you should try) The plug should be the same as Bosch 2 pin standard so I would try Repco etc for those. Pretty common plug. It won;t look the same but should still fit the Bosch 2 pin knock sensor. The other wiring is anyone's guess
  2. A true friend wouldn't do that to one of his mates
  3. As long as your fuel pump is up to scratch, 400rwkw is just under safe limits for E85 on 1000cc injectors. Easiest way to work it out is this: (keep in mind that this is factoring in all variables and should be considered as a safe estimate) E85 - Total cc's / 11 = whp (eg. 1000cc x 6 injectors = 6000cc / 11 = 545hp) Pump 98 - Total cc's / 8 = whp (eg. 1000cc x 6 injectors = 6000cc / 8 = 750hp)
  4. There are no bad ideas, only bad execution
  5. Is that a metaphor?
  6. Cool mate no worries. I'm not saying you WILL have problems but the chances are fairly high from what we see. Bigger gate is always better and if they are just going to swap it out, it's going to make things a lot easier, not only for boost control but also for fitment by the sounds of it
  7. Plus people are having boost spike issues bad enough as it is on the 6 boost manifolds. 38mm is too small for that setup IMO.
  8. It's going to be hit and miss. That's bigger than a GT3582R so I'd be definitely going for the 44mm. In fact a 50 would be better but not absolutely required.
  9. Shit yeah. Does anyone actually use standard bolts these days?
  10. We use stock gaskets in applications over 600hp and 30psi boost without issues. If you do the job correctly, it will be fine
  11. I think you are referring to the valve seat. Both have it I think
  12. And you may need a new cat converter. Burning coolant kills them hardcore
  13. Just replace i with a standard gasket from Nissan. They aren't that expensive and are very good quality. Get the cylinder head fully recoed while it's out. Valve regrind, stem seals, deck ect. Get your injectors cleaned right before the head goes back on Replace all the heater hoses
  14. That's because you granny shift, not double clutchin like you should!
  15. It looks like the crank has been chewing out the centre of the back of the pump. Thrust bearing must be totally shagged
  16. Yeah if the turbo is any bigger than a 3071 you may have spiking issues. What turbo/manifold/engine combo are you running?
  17. Has the crank fouled against the oil pump?
  18. Don't do it. Get the 38 swapped for a 44. You will regret using the 38
  19. Depends on how soon. You'll only be good for about 10k on those plugs anyway.
  20. Also....I would be more than happy to inspect any high res photos you can take if you want some advise. I've seen a lot of this stuff before so I can lend my experience if you need it. I don't have much spare time but if I can help you out I will
  21. Then he is wrong. Yes that is the only way they can break other than putting them in incorrectly. If you don't line up the little locator lug they will snap across the banjo part. If the piston hits it, it will snap the stem off and leave the banjo part in tact. I prob have spares if you need some but I'm guessing you'll need more than just that to get this up and going again
  22. They come out of the box at 0.8mm they will work in everything from standard to 400kw fairly well but a little bit cold for a stocker
  23. There should be some very very small witness marks on the bottom of the piston skirt
  24. There is supposed to be a spark plug link in the Quick Reference Guide but the link is broken. Standard skyline - Platinum PFR5G-11/PFR6A11 - Iridium BKR6EIX-11/BCPR6EIX-11 or Copper BCPR6ES-11 (only regap if required to bandaid) Mild mods ~ 100hp more than stock - BCPR7ES
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