The Dan

There is something wrong if he makes only 22psi at just over 5000rpm. Noel's 33 (RB25DET) makes 26psi at 3800-4000 and 400rpm later on the 1.06. Tuning, cam timing, the rest of the setup, will all determine how efficiently it will run.

^^ what he said

Everything else will bolt straight up. The only thing you have to remember is if you use a 32 25DE head, you have to stay with the DE manifold. The exhaust is the same flange configuration.

Not all RB30's are the same. You need to make sure the block has the machined surface for the idler bearing and at the bottom of the block surface half way along it has to have the bung there for the turbo oil drain. The idler bearing is right next to where the tensioner is positioned on the 30 engine. It will just be a flat surface, with a 10mm hole and a 1.5 thread in it. This is where you'll need to put the idler bearing

Not really. Tomei pon cams are generally the cheapest you will find. RB26 camshafts will fit but the problem is the ramp rate for the lobe is too sudden for the hydraulics so they can cause some idle issues. Other than that, they will give you some small gains. Unless you are making over 230rwkw, then camshafts aren't really required. Get some cam gears and adjust the cam timing. You will get just as much of a gain at much less cost.

Judging by the fact you only have grease on the palms of your hand tells me you just rubbed them on some dirty parts for the photo shoot. What wiring issues are you having? I can probably help you out.

GTR's come with push type clutches and pull type clutches. Yes it does increase the clamping load by approx 100kg

It's a direct fit as long as it came out of a 32 GTR with a push type clutch

Share it if you get some!

The problem can be any of the things mentioned above. There are so many components to the system that it is very hard to determine an exact cause. Usually a cracked pedal box will cause a clicking sound rather than a creaking sound as the two broken metal pieces click past each other. The pedal getting stuck half way can be caused by a broken pedal box when they get really bad but usually you won't be able to pull it up again with your foot because the reason it is getting stuck there is because the pedal box is bent. It could have a hydraulic problem and the hardness in the pedal can be due to one of the cylinders becoming stuck or blocked. Check the fluid level to see if you have lost any fluid. Check by removing the lid as sometimes the master cylinder can appear full because the fluid will leave a stain. Get someone to press the clutch pedal in and out while you crouch in the passenger side to see if the noise is definitely coming from inside the car. Then jack up the car and listen underneath. You will soon identify the location. Once you know the location of the noise, you will have a better idea of where to start your repairs. If the noise is 100% coming from the pedal area, then the clutch is most likely fine If the noise is coming from the gearbox area, then it will have to come out. Before removing it, you could try greasing the slave cylinder push rod where it touches the throwout fork to see if that is the cause also. You may have a combination of a few different problems, creaking push rod, leaking cylinder, cracked pedal box all at the same time, check everything over thoroughly before taking on a largish job like removal of gearbox.

The gearbox needs to come out to fix the creaking mist likely anyway. Have it removed and the problem will reveal itself. I'd say the pivot ball is dry and/or broken. Could be the diaphram in the clutch cover also.

Traditional monthly reply

I'm confused. So what you're saying is that you'll courier them if the buyer organises the courier? I just wanted to clarify.

Do what the diff manufacturer suggests.

Was the engine from that car ever dynoed by itself? If not, then the 1000hp is just speculation. 180hp loss to the back wheels and 100 loss to the front is ridiculous.

If you go to a 0.82 rear housing you will need to use the stupid XR6 dump flange so it will need to be modified. The typical response lose expected from 0.6 - 0.8 would be somewhere around 400 rpm. But you also have a smaller, more restrictive housing on at the moment. Moving to the 0.7 rear will allow more flow all round and will retain the skyline 6 bolt dump pattern. I would say - expect 1 bar at approx 3800 (as that turbo is known to be particularly laggy)

I don't think he mentioned a noise issue other than losing the aggressive noise by changing. Maybe a mounty pulled him up for too shiny?

The bad experiences you heard of are most likely to be from people who have used it without the friction modifier. It seriously makes a huge difference. But as with anything, there is always a compromise. Redline is IMO the best quality gear fluid available. Some people don't like it, others love it. I have never had a single problem when using it and have only ever had good reports back from customers.

Yes it is fine. The way I normally do it is to buy Redline shockproof and a 1oz bottle of friction modifier. Put the redline in and drive around the car park. If the diff is grabby, then put in 1/4 of the 1oz bottle. Test it again and keep adding until it drives smootly or how you want it. 75 vs 80 is not really anything to worry about.

http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Dri...Efficiency.html Have a read.

It's called Skylines AUSTRALIA for a reason. Maybe mention you are in Canada when you post your question

Yeah, the one this guy has is the 700382-12 with a VG30 rear housing though. Sonic do a 0.73 rear housing that can be machined to suit everything from a GT2860RS to a GT3076R -12. It's a T3 flange and Skyline dump compatable. That is the housing he needs to go to. It flows more than the VG30 housing so it will take care of his power fall-off problem

Where are you getting this information? 4 of the 5 GT3071R's come with cropped turbines. I think you are getting your facts mixed up

All Garrett GT turbos have cropped wheels except the 60mm one. And the 60mm version came out after the rest so it isn't even the 'original' 3071 that everyone claims it to be.

Yes you can take an easy 5mm away. Read cubes rb30 guide. You have to take that much of the whole top section when doing that. There is the same amount of material at the bottom