The Dan

Weren't they just an ABS GTR with the ABS removed though? Still have the bolt holes for the sensors and the holes for them also?

That is the PCV valve hose. That is a normal sound

Which ones? And how did they operate the 4wd system without a wheel speed sensor?

ALL GTR's had ABS And the whole GTR diff should bolt up into the rear of the S15. Check NS.com to see who has done it

You changed the plugs, now it idles shit and you can hear an air leak? I think you just nailed it. Unless the air leak sound is coming from the PCV valve or hose connected to it. It always sounds like rushing air when the engine is idling.

M10 fine is Metric 10mm x 1.25mm pitch M10 standard is Metric 10mm x 1.5mm pitch Coarse is 1.75 The pitch doesn't matter too much as you are getting nuts to suit but I would definitely go with a fine pitch with something like this...you don't want it to rattle loose, and try to get Nyloc nuts to suit it. Washer size doesn't matter, just make sure the bolt goes through 100% of the nut minimum.

minimum 8.8 grade but aim for a 10. 12's will be socket head (cap head) which you can use but they are a pain in the arse.

+1 tap a spanner on your intake runner gently and watch it go through the roof. Rattling clutch, alternator, timing belt bearing, water pump can all be causes for 'noise'. And so can the beginnings of a spun bearing. OP: Don't treat it as nothing, just don't be overly concerned about it. And take it somewhere that has an electronic steth they can hook up or a knock box to put your mind at ease. Every engine is slightly different in frequency so your ECU might read worse on a different engine, it might read better, but the point is the readings are normal.

Low load knock levels up to 100 won't hurt anything. And like was said above, knock can be caused by many different things so make sure it's not just interference. If you have 20 knock below 3000rpm, that is the best place to have it if you've gotta have it somewhere. At those engine loads it can simply not be doing any damage. Drive ANY new manual car and put a knock box on. You'd freak out if you saw the knock levels when you stand on the accel or take off from the lights. But because it's at low load, it's fine.

Nah, purple is the colour or sexual frustration.

Try doing it for 1000hp or 2000hp. The gearbox has exactly the same counter force no matter how much extra power is turning it. The only thing that can change that is if the fluid changes viscosity (which it does - but ONLY to a certain point), the gears don't become any more resistive.

It's closer to a fixed figure than it is to a percentage. Unless you are talking about engines producing under 200hp, then both will be extremely close. The whole idea of power loss has everything to do with gear mechanics and fluid viscosity, yes, but once it gets to a certain point, the percentage figure becomes more and more inaccurate, the further away from it you move. Plus you'll need to provide a link to any article you are referencing so I can read it.

And if you want to pay the labour costs I'll happily do the comparo for you

^^ +1 This is exactly how I work it. Percentage loss is incorrect. You can all argue til you're blue in the face about it but it is simply wrong. Auto gearboxes are close because they have fluid vs centrifugal forces in the converter but it still only goes so far at being close, then the more hp you make, the less accurate your percentage will be. Most manual gearboxes + medium - heavy diffs will lose anywhere between 70-100hp from the engine. Autos are about another 20% on top of that, that's as far as the percentage will get you. Of course it's different for each gearbox but we're talking 10-15hp difference and it's about as accurate as you are going to get without engine dynoing.

No. there is approx 80-90hp loss through the drivetrain in a manual 34.

490-500hp at the engine

I know you weren't being smart but with all due respect if you put the effort into following the instructions, then there wouldn't be a problem. We don't all have photos just lying around of cylinder heads but with such clear instructions to follow, a picture shouldn't really be required.

Fun-policeman

There is no half moon at the front...only at the back. Is this a prank call?

I don't think the detent on the side is going to help you. It only stops reverse from being selected at the same time as another gear I think. The most likley cause would probably be the synchro clips haven't been put it or they have fallen out/broken. Drain the oil into a clean bucket and look for small thin metal parts. Metal 'hair' on the drain plug is ok. It's large chunks of metal you are looking for.

Just on a side note, that air filter you have is better suited to a 1.5L engine. The short fat ones don't tend to flow too well. Get something dual cone and a bit longer if you want best results

Repeated high rpm will break them eventually. Anything over 8.8mm is not advised. But yeah, like you said, should be ok but it's the same as everything else...its always when you don't think something bad is going to happen when shit really hits the fan.

How is it not easy to understand? The location has been spelt out about 5 times already. Front of cylinder head Front cam cap Corners where cam cover seals have sharp edges Put silicon on the cylinder head in those corners. Or another way to explain it: Take off the cam cover, look at the very front of the seal on either edge of the archway. Where the sharp corners of the seal are, put silicon on the head where those corners sit. The oil seals on the front of the camshaft: put some silicon on the outer edge and some grease (rubber or other it doesn't matter) on the sealing surface. Oil leaks gone

It's supposed to go between the gasket and the corner of the first cam cap. If you put it anywhere else on the sides of the cover it will end up leaking again. The rubber needs to bite into the aluminium and the silicon prevents it from doing so. It is necessary to have it in the front corners though. You don't need to have it under the cam caps but putting it there doesn't hurt unless you cover the oil seal return holes.

Yep, you definitely want the thicker chunkier camshaft. Nothing like rotational mass to make things sweet. I hope you don't plan on revving it past 7000rpm? 9mm lift is higher than you should go on standard springs. Hope you don't snap a spring or stuff a lifter.