The Dan

No, Nissan do not use anything around the cam seals. I use 3bond around them anyway to be safe as it doesn't hurt The only sealant that goes there is under the front corners of the cam cover gaskets. If you don't have sealant there or have removed the sealant blobs from the front, then that is where your leak will be coming from. It also doesn't help to be dodgey and not replace a $5 seal.

He has the VG30 rear housing

I hope you aren't being serious?

Does it ever go over 30? If not, then stop worrying

Exhaust side, below runner 5 and 6. About half way down the block just under the water line for the turbo. Approx 12mm hex head and extremely tight. Make sure you locktite it back up when you are finished. Also make sure you have the ignition on with the heater on when you are flushing the system as it will be full of old coolant also.

Go the Tomei cams from Hi-Octane for $1000

Get Nissan NZ to order them. They are just being lazy. It will only take 10 days to get them. If that doesn't work, order them from Nissan Australia. +61 7 32907890 and get them to send them over. If that doesn't work, let me know and I'll send them over.

Yeah ^^ It is better to buy new ones like he said. The bolts act as locating studs also so they are not something you can just buy off the shelf. I think you are also right about the 5stud vs 6stud axles having different sizes. The more I think about it, the more I think that is, in fact, the case.

The half shafts tap into the diff itself. Are you referring to the bolts for the rear axles/driveshafts where they join to the half shafts? I would assume so, and the answer is yes, they will all interchange with each other

Wow that's cheap for a male. I have two Staffies (both female) and they, and every other staffy I have ever encountered, are the most pleasant natured dogs you will ever own. Absolutely superb around children and great fun to have around. If I didn't have my two I would jump on this. Good luck with the sale

With all due respect, read the terms and conditions...point 5 to be precise, and stop going on about false advertisement. You got the turbo you ordered. It is EXACTLY the turbo you ordered. There are two ways to fit the oil line so it is possible the mechanics fitting the turbo mucked that up. If Tweakit did, in fact, leave out the spacer or silicon by mistake, then sure, they made an error. EASY FIX. Tell them they left some bits out and get a refund for those parts.

If you're referring to the VG30 back end then no, it doesn't. They are a new casting

Keep in mind that the ID tag has nothing to do with housings. It only identifies the cartridge. All the specs I said in the above posts are accurate. I sell these as a sonic dealer myself.

They don't crop the turbine to fit the housing. They machine the housing to suit the turbo. It will be all the same specs as the 3071-3 that the ID tag says. The turbine housing A/R is 0.73. $2460 is spot on the money considering it didn't come with spacer, studs or silicon. Who did you buy it from?

Fulcrum do a superpro inner and outer kit to give you around 3 neg

The GT3071 - 20 is the same as a HKS 2835 so you got the turbo you ordered. The power is good for that booet on that turbo IMO What exactly are you not happy about?

I've got a 33GTR at the shop at the moment with 275's on 19x9.5 Fortessr TE37's and they are a perfect fit. 265's on 10.5 will be a stretch fit considering they should be on 8.5 - 9 inch rims

LOL - BS

Also I'm pretty sure the JB4055 doesn't fit the RB20 Trent. They bolt up and work but the pushrod is usually at an angle which causes the cup seal to wear out within 6 months. I think the number you need is JB4184. I could have them around the wrong way though. Neither of those part numbers fit an R33 though. The slave cylinder is genuine only for an R33

Yeah the two possible part numbers are K791S and K1008S

Yep. You need to change the slave cylinder and possibly the master cylinder too. Try your local ABS store, they should be open and have the 19mm slave cylinder kit to be able to get you going again.

Ok no worries. Spend the dollars and get the front more adjustable. Both tyres will not push through while cornering with around 3 degrees. At the moment you are probably getting a bit more wear on the outside edge of the front due to insufficient camber. Unless it's a street car, then you'll be getting a whole lot of inside wear due to specs

Please post up your wheel alignment specs

You can't reset it just by disconnection. You need to drain the capacitors by disconnecting the battery and pressing the brake pedal for 30 seconds

That is 100% the Auto ECU. When I first saw the picture I thought youd been given an N13 pulsar ECU or some shit lol