The Dan

You think you've done bad? I lost count after 50 points

When I was on my P's and lost my licence, they didn't have the good behaviour crap so when you lost it, you would do your time and when you got it back you had to start your 3 years all over again. Not sure if it's the same now though.

750 Euros is a fair price to fix one of those. I would just get it sorted

No luck with local Nissan. I can look it up when I get home on FAST but because it's European, Nissan Australia don't know FA. You will find it hard to get a copy of FAST due to copyright stuff.

VIN

YOUR

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Correction. That pump from Nissan is $2650 ex Japan. Have you tried calling your local Nissan dealer?

What the hell is a fabric number? Read the VIN off the firewall. You probably won't be able to buy just the electronic part, you will have to buy the whole injector pump. The injector pump is worth approx $3000 AUD minimum.

late post

exactly what model is it? N15? and the japanese VIN would help

Are you referring to the fuel pump?

The spring is usually retained when converting these. It will pretty much go back to within 1mm or so of where it did with the original setup. The carrier needs to be the short version, though, and the bearing needs to be the small diameter one, not the standard one. If you want straight advice on the topic, ring NPC clutches when they come back in January. He does the conversions so can tell you all the ins and outs. There number is 07 3277 9403

same clutch except for pressure plate clamp load. As long as the GTR was a series 1 with a push type clutch

And you'd be wrong. Not only that but do you know how much damage would occur if the crank could actually move on the main bearings. He would notice a massive drop in oil pressure, the thrust bearing would disintegrate and would have a knock, not a whirring humming noise. Until this guy checks out the things I said originally, the noise is going to stay there. If he doesn't change those things soon enough, it could fail.

The cage is the part or the clutch that holds the plates. It's usually attached or part of the flywheel. It's like a castle turret. The cover is the piece that goes on top of the part you have in the photo. Pretty much everything on the top and outside of the clutch aside from the plates and flywheel

You need to put quotes around point 2

They sleep in the same bed Andy

You just bolt it in. The gaps are for letting the oil level equalise. If you seal it up, you reduce the amount of oil that can get back in when no inertia is involved because the oil can't push through the flaps very easily.

He means Otomoto www.otomoto.com.au

It shouldn't be such a hassle. Either the clutch hasn't been built properly (if you have taken it to someone who rebuilds clutches for a living and is good at it, then this is less likely) or the mechanics fitting it are not doing something right. You need the shorter carrier with all the OS clutches and the smaller diameter bearing. Not the standard one. It will also depend on what the guy did when he built it. They can be built to require the standard bearing. You need to make sure the hydraulics are functioning correctly and make sure the adjustment is correct also.

GDAY!

The noise this guy posted up is coming from behind the timing cover. It is 150% not an internal engine noise. Change the timing belt, water pump and timing belt bearings. It is also possible the noise is coming from the CAS bearing so check to make sure it's not fubar.

It's not a shit idea. If there is an engine noise and he has exhausted all other possibilities, then yes, that is what you would do. What I was referring to was your comment on a bearing being 'minorly eaten out' and the concept of bearings expanding that much when hot. Bearings don't get minorly eaten out and they do expand but at around 80-100 degrees it is microscopic. If there is engine bearing damage, it's not always as easy as just throwing in a new set and away you go.

You've been coming out with some doozies over the last couple of days Brandon.