R33fourdoor

I'm no expert, but 4 wheels with the same width but "staggered" offset suggest to me that they would probably suit a GTST rather than a GTR. GTR rims always tend to be the same width front and rear and the same offset. For an 8.5" rim width, I would imaging an offset of around +25 would be closer to the mark for a GTR. But please don't take my word as gospel ....... I'm sure some "proper" R32 GTR owners (not wannabe's) will steer you in the right direction. Good luck

Hi Folks, I run a nice set of 18" Zepter Mesh wheels and getting them clean can be a royal pain in the arse, but they look fantastic when they are. However, keeping them that way can often be the biggest pain of all and the biggest culprit is that damned nuisance, brake dust! You know the stuff I'm talkin' about.... wash the car today and in two days time the friggin wheels are almost black again!!! I'm up for a set of brake pads very soon and wanted to see whether anyone else has factored "brake dust" into the equation when selecting pads. Speaking to a friendly, knowledgable fellow in a local brake shop the other day, he suggested that EBC Green Stuff Pads offer excellent performance with negligible brake dust. He reckons they've had a great response from clients that have complained of the same problem, particularly drivers of expensive euro cars. Wouldn't mind something that could handle the odd track day once in a blue moon, but ultimately I'm just looking for a high performance street solution, not kamakazi race pads. Does anyone have any experiences / preferences that they would care to share? Cheers, Mike

Hi Pete, I've got some bolt on spacers if you're still looking for some? If you do, I'll take some thickness measurements on Sunday. They came off my R33, so they are 114.5 x 5 bolt. Is this the sort of thing you're after or are you looking to comvert 4 stud to 5 stud? Cheers, Mike

Doesn't HICAS run off the PS pump as well? I remeber once I was checking out some noise uder the bonnet and revving the car while under the carport. I did this for a few minutes and when I hopped back into the car, I noticed that my HICAS warning light was on and the steering was difficult to turn. Turned the car off and went inside for about 15 minutes before heading off. Started the car again and off I went like nothing had ever happened....steering fine and no warning light ever since!? When you were drifting, did you notice whether your HICAS light came on at any stage as this may be something else that you may want to investigate while you're at it. Presumably you've checked the PS fluid and it is still at the correct level. If not, a leak of some sort would have been your most obvious cause. If the pump has failed internally, would it be simpler and cheaper to replace it with a second hand unit or are they cheap enough to recondition? Anyone had to have a pump reconditioned yet and if so, what was it worth? Good luck with it Richo

Howdy Guy, at least something positive came out of the exercise, eh! Nice meeting you today and please don't go to any fuss or bother returning the pump, just pop past whenever you're in the area looking for a coffee! Cheers, Mike

Although I would definitely get the wheels aligned (to ensure the best possible handling and even tread wear) I can't see this being the primary source of your vibration. Particularly if the only thing that has changed are the wheels and there was no vibration with the old ones. It sounds as if the problem lay in the wheel balance and/or the spacers potentially affecting the state of balance. Although this may sound silly, have you checked the wheel nuts ..... is it possible that the wheel(s) are loose?

Hi Guy, If it's of any help, I still have my old original pump if you need it. I'll chuck it in the boot and bring it to work with me. I work over in Keswick, so if you're in the vicinity you're welcome to it. Cheers, Mike

I'll be going for a new Tomei in-tank kit. They look well engineered and come with every nut, bolt and seal you'll need.

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Hi Guys, So what's the go......anyone been through Regency with a boot mounted fuel pump and surge tank installed and lived to tell the tale? Could I safely presume that they're illegal for the street? Maybe I should just give up before I start and put that money toward a set of nice fake lambswool seatcovers or maybe a nice set of plastic hubcaps and a chrome exhaust tip....that's provided Regency would approve it!! :lol: Cheers, Mike

Hi Folks, I'm still having some fuel surge issues despite having installed a new fuel pump about 12 months ago. Made the mistake of having Jap Motorsport install a new "GTR Fuel Pump". I believe that the pickup and sock at the base of the pump is probably incorrect for a GTS-T fuel tank let alone a GTS25T Sedan fuel tank! My problem is that I've never laid eyes on a "standard" fuel pump assembly for the sedan, so I don't know whether it would be easy enough to fabricate the correct style pickup to suit or whether I should just go for a Tomei fuel pump kit which has the complete, correct assembly included. At this stage, it seems pointless going for an external pump / surge tank arrangement while I'm still struggling to suck 45 litres out of the tank. Plus, even moderate right hand turns will cause fuel starvation once below 1/3 of a tank! Has anyone else out there with a sedan experienced anything similar and found the ideal solution? Cheers, Mike

Keep an eye on the PowerFC "Group Buys" as there have been some excellent deals in recent times. Let us know what state your in and then maybe some of the members local to you could make some recommendations that could help regarding tuning etc...... Cheers

Hi Dan, I presume you are running an RB25DET not a RB20DET like Luke. If that's the case, I agree with Jono. The ECU on the RB20 is tuneable but the ECU on the RB25 is different. The EEPROM used on the RB25 is a "write once" chip unlike what Luke is familiar with. Firstly, you need to have the existing chip removed and in it's place you will ned to install a socket so the chip can be removed without soldering. Them you need to buy a blank EEPROM to suit and get this burnt to your new state of tune. But every time you change the state of tune, you will need to buy a new chip and have it re-burnt as they cannot be re-used. There have been other discussions relating to this that you may want to search out if you're not certain. This is why the PowerFC makes much more sense on an RB25DET than modifying the existing CPU. Once you have payed for your CPU modifications and your first tune, you could have probably bought a PowerFC. Besides, the people in Australia that "really, truly" know what they're doing with the factory chips are few and far between. I'm not suggesting that Luke's mate is no good, he's probably very knowledgable and one of that rare rare breed, but it takes more than some Software and an EEPROM burner to make a powerful and safe state of tune. I would place far more trust in the abilities of the tuners specialising in the PowerFC as there is a much greater pool of knowledge to draw from and the results gained are proven and repeatable. Don't put your hard earnt money at risk. Stick with the safe bet (PowerFC) and at least you will be able to draw out the best possible performance from your rig with a margin of safety in reserve. Also, make sure that you have a close look through the forums here and only support the tuners that are repeatedly providing excellent results to our forum members. I also agree that buying the right thing "once" is much better and more economical in the long run than just buying what you can afford at the time. This said by someone who's thrown good money after bad in the past and you can benefit from my misfortune and that of many others on this site. Keep asking questions and ONLY spend your hard earnt money on products that give "proven" results (cheap or otherwise). Happy New Year to you and good luck with your decision. Cheers, Mike

Yeah...either a loose bolt on the exhaust manifold, broken stud or holed gasket would be my bet. Take it back to the guys who fitted your exhaust and get them to sort it out.

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That's a nice kit you have on your taxi there, Steve. Being a GTS4, does this mean that it was originally a 4wd normally aspirated version, now converted to RB25DET power? Man that would have been a pleasant improvement I'll bet! Must say, I've never come across a 4wd sedan in the flesh yet (that I know of anyhow). I get around in a similar looking GTS25T but I can't recall seeing yours around before, we must live on opposite sides of town, eh. Being the loyal family man that I am, I'm not allowed out for night cruises and exhaust is too loud for me to just sneak out without the whole neighborhood knowing. :lol: Would love to catch up with some of the bods I see regularly on the forums. Must get off my arse and post a couple of photos too. Cheers, Mike

Reckon you shouldn't rule out the R33 GTS25T 4dr Sedan, it's a solid option as well. You might find one that comes close to your budget, there aren't as many around, they look great and go as well as anything else around. Mine came with some wierd ass side skirts and a Nismo style rear spoiler but I'm personally not fussed about the S1 front bar. I actually think that it looks quite alright, even better with the centre section cut out to show off your FMIC (must get around to that one day). And the added bonus, no ground clearance problems like the bigger bars. Tastefully lowered with a nice set of rims finishes them off nicely. Plus they don't tend to attract as much of the "wrong" kind of attention!! Good luck with your decision......but I don't reckon you'd be disappointed regardless of which model 'line you end up choosing.

G'day Gareth, welcome to SAU. That's a schmick looking 34 you've got there son!

<rant on> I find it amusing (sad) that a large number of guys selling wheels don't understand why people (like me) look but don't buy. Man, your wheels look great as 100 other dudes on this forum would agree, but here you are dropping the price already and wanting to add more pictures when you haven't fully answered the important questions some are asking!? If you just provide the Wheel Offsets, then anyone with half an idea will know whether your wheels will fit their ride correctly and you will inevitably start getting some serious offers from informed buyers. Without the Offset values (together with Wheel Size, Bolt Pattern and condition already provided), there is no way I could part company with my hard earned dollars to buy wheels that may OR may not fit. I'm sure people like BLITZ who sees this sort of patchy info going up every day would have to agree. <rant off> Sorry for the lecture, but it doesn't have to be this hard guys ..... we need wheels and you need money.... figure it out. Cheers (and sorry again for the blurb, no disrespect intended), Mike

Offsets? Suit an R33 GTS25T without spacers? Could you show a photo of the gutter rash? Are you willing to ship interstate?

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What model Skyline are these off (R32/R33 - GTST/GTR)? Did you have them painted or were they white from the factory? Correct offsets for R33 GTST or do you need spacers? Do you have pics of these rims on the car?

Is this still for sale? What modeel Skyline was it out of? Was the car it came out of Auto or Manual?

Ditto. I've been using Bigpond Cable for the past 20 months and have also been delighted with the blistering performance. Friend has recently moved to a 1.5/256 ADSL connection through TPG and although it's as quick as any other connection I've come across, it's not a patch on Cable. If you want service, reliability and performance, go Internode ADSL. It's not the cheapest around, but I wouldn't bother compromising my quality of service for the sake of a few bucks. I also happen to be an authorised reseller of Internode's services and can vouch for their "real world" support and performance. A key differentiator for Bigpond Cable is the fact that you cannot get a fixed IP address. If you're running a web or mail server, you will have to use a separate Dynamic DNS service provider. Also Telstra will not support your connection if it is managed by a hardware Firewall/Router. They will want you to bypass everything and revert back to the Bigpond "Hearbeat" Client. Telstra's cable service still uses the old technology "heartbeat" system which can cause considerable grief with Routers that cannot handle this method of connection properly (disconnects and cannot reconnect without a hard reset). If service and support are important to you, I urge you to stay away from Bigpond. In reality, ADSL2 will return performance equivalent to or slightly better than Cable, ADSL2+ faster again. Both use better, more advanced technology which provides features that Cable simply can't provide. But please be aware that ADSL2 and ADSL2+ only quote "up to" speeds, NOT guaranteed connection speeds. The fact is, further you are from the DSLAM, the slower your maximum speed will be. For example, the maximum speed achievable on ADSL2+ is effectively HALVED by the time you are only 1Km away from the DSLAM. As long as you live within 500m of the Exchange, your connection will be the envy of all mankind!! ;o) At the end of the day, 1/ Don't scab out on your Internet 2/ Go for a provider that supports CHURN (if you still want the convenience of choice) 3/ If you can't commit to a lengthy contract, go with ADSL (Cable is usually 18-24mth contract if you want a reasonable connection fee). Have fun.....