zachery

hey all. im having trouble diagnosing a problem after my recent rebuilt. everything seems to be fine, everything mechanical anyway but i only get an initial combustion. was hoping someone local might have a consult interface i could borrow. the closest one to buy was in perth and i was hoping to sort this out soon. a box of beer is in it. im near brisbane. any help would be great. thanks. Zachery.

hey all. im having trouble diagnosing a problem after my recent rebuilt. everything seems to be fine, everything mechanical anyway but i only get an initial combustion. was hoping someone local might have a consult interface i could borrow. the closest one to buy was in Perth and i was hoping to sort this out soon. im near brisbane. any help would be great. thanks. Zachery.

thanks to all that posted. i feel a bit stupid posting this but i thought it might help others that make the same silly mistake just had a day off so i decided to start from the beginning turns out i had no compression on three cylinders and not alot on the rest so i stripped it down again. once the cams cam off, the valves seated nicely and a bleed down showed good results. i then noticed a few buckets sitting up. turns out the shims weren't seated. we had clamped a tube in place of the cams while we works on the bottom end. there mus have been enough gap to allow the shims to leave their seats and cause the obvious offset between valve, bucket and cam lobe. i count myself lucky i didnt bend a valve as a result. silly i know, not cheking and reseating the buckets, but i thought id post it to help anyone else who makes the same mistake. thanks again. Zachery

it does seem like over fueling. or rather a starvation of air. but i would have thought that once i open the throttle bodies by hand that it should get plenty. another weird thing is that when i put my hand over the inlet of the plenum, there is no way near the vac that i would imagine. but i have good compression and theres nothing clogging in the throttle bodies, i cheked with dads probe cam. its like the laws of physics arent working lol. its got me at a loss. the only thing that could account for the lack of vacum is either (a) no compression at all... or (b) the exhuast valves are still open to some degree. iv checked both. i have tried the afm. i will try the tps tomorrow. what doe the computer do without a tps? does it cause a change in the AAC response? thanks again

thanks il get some new plugs today. yeh the entire engine was assembled. iv also tried removing all piping as i thought it might be some restriction on the intake but it was all clear.

hey mate. did you ever solve this? sounds similar to my prob.

whats the best way to chek this? my brother said he could see them squirt but after cheking myself i cant see them. i was just going off the plugs being soaked.

ok after double checking everything this is where i am. -i have fuel.. plugs are always wet plus iv tried a starter aerosol. injectors are pulsing. -got a good spark on all and no.1 is timed to 14 degrees Btdc. the cas is installed correctly and locator key is in tact. -have confirmed that the cams are all timed right. lobes are in correct orientation, belt and gears are aligned. doesnt this mean it should run? i keep coming back to the thought that its timed 360 degrees out. like the cams are right but its firing on the exhaust stroke. but isnt that a mechanical impossibility given the way the cam gear dowels and timing marks are arranged with the cas key being fixed? i feel like im on crazy pills or im just retarded and missing something super obvious.

yeah i thought the same at first. tried both...

i just bought a new light today and checked the timing. its reading about 14 Btdc. is that about right for a cold start? its cranking really slow, even with all other plugs removed? this seems really strange. when i crank it by hand (with a breaker bar) its feels fine. i would have thought i could feel it if the bearings were dragging. whn i turned just the crank after installing the bearings it felt fine. if i crank it with all the coils and plugs in, it turns at the same speed and might splutter once. then i give it wide open throttle and it will fire on No. 3 but only no.3 so im thinking its some kind of mixture problem but its so drastic that i cant imagine what would cause it. and if it was, wouldnt it splutter on all? so odd... and thoughts?

It's only been sitting a few weeks. I have checked the lines and they are firing. I checked through the plug holes, you can see them squirt. For some reason my timing light isn't flashing but does on dads running car. I'm going to try my bros tonight. Thanks for the reply.

iv been looking for like ten mins to find a place to post a tech question but i must be a retard. lol sorry if its not ok here. i am running a stock r32 rb26 in an r33 sedan. i didn't do the conversion myself but it was running beautifully untill recently my oil pump failed. luckily i was on the ball and saw the gauge drop and light come on. i caught it just in time to save getting my crank reground. so, after pulling it down and repairing the nose and replacing the bearings and pump it was time to reinstall. it all went smooth and i was sure i have all wires and hoses in the right place but when i went to start it, nothing. it turns over slower than i remember and if i pump the gas its seems to only be firing on no.4 and extreemly retarded. the injectors are firing and i have spark. im sure the CAS is exactly where it was and the spline ans key slot is in good nick. is there something iv totally missed? nothing has really been changed and its all been sitting in the shed so i cant imagine something has failed just sitting there. iv checked that the cams are all timed right. is there a plug or hose missing that might cause these symptoms? my dads a mech engineer and he oversaw the whole job. its got us both stumped im getting a new timing light soon to chek but if it shows what we suspect it wont help to fix the problem. i know this is vague but any input would be appreciated. thnks Zachery.