rd-runr

Can't hurt to reset the computer!

Get the Trust and spend the money you saved on a decent hiflow cat, if you haven't already. Else its a compromise between noise and flow.

Bosche 040.

The 11 on the end is the plug gap ~ 1.1mm. Those without a number at the end will generally have a smaller gap, for NGK i think its 0.8mm! Denso i don't know.

Hop under ur car and hit the cat with the palm of ur hand. If it rattles from within the cat, theres ur problem!

Dammit, I did the same thing a couple a weeks ago. Is there a fix for this?

There is a little black box on the firewall drivers side which has a vacuum hose running into the side of the plenum (closest to firewall).

R u interested in swapping for 17x8 with 235/45 new Hankook K104s on all four? What car were these rims on?

For turbos with internal actuators use a gain less than 15, external wastegate use a ggain greater than 15. The ratio is used in manual mode to set the boost so the higher you go the more boost you run. Boost limit will cut off boost when it reaches the set value, I'm guessing that you've set the boost limit to 1.25 bar? I don't have a GTR but do have a GTST with gain set to 12, ratio set to 54 (which works out to approx. 12psi of boost for my car) and limit set to 13psi. GTR owners will be able to tell u the safe boost level to run.

Basic rebuild with forged pistons, stock rods ~ $5000. That includes labour. If you do some of the work shave off 1-2 grand!

Yes you can replace with normal vacuum hose. Get a hose with the closest if not same diameter as stock. Unscrew the black box from its mount, easy!

You can get new hose from Repco etc.

With the mods that you intend to do, I think it would be a good time to invest in a piggyback such as those listed if you are gonna keep the auto. The emanage can be ordered with the vehicle specific harness kit making it a plug and play affair.

Look up the NGK website, they should have an NTK factory replacement O2 sensor.

I'm having the exact same problem now! Would also like to know what the problem is and how to fix it.

Dammit, should never quote secondhand info. Anyways let us know how the tune turns out, I may be following in your footsteps.

mad34, Don't make the same mistake that I did and take it to someone that has not tuned an eManage B4. I'm paying for it now! If you live in Adelaide take it down to Boost Worx in Panorama because they have had alot of experience with the eManage compared to others and will do their best to fix your problem.

Just hop on the ngk website and search the database for the factory 02 sensor. They are around $100 and should be in stock or can be ordered in a day or two. The NTK ones fit perfectly and work great.

There is/was a shift kit group buy in the group buy section. Check that out for more info.

Maybe change the O2 sensor. Worked for me but could just be masking the real problem.

Try resetting the ecu. I found that this helped when I had shit shifts.

I'm assuming that you've already got a 3 inch turbo back exhaust. This should be the first!

Skip the fuel pressure regulator and go the injectors. I've read ppl having issues with the sards so I'd go the nismo for assurance. If you're prepared to wait then ordering parts from nengun or the likes will be the cheapest way to go.

The blitz sbc are excellent. I definately recommend them if you have the cash. I picked up a id3 for 800 last year brand new. I've read some people getting good results from the bleed valve too. Its cheap as cheaps and is good for up to 1 bar. If you're planning on running higher than that get an ebc, if not go the bleed. Make sure that whatever alarm you get you also have an immobiliser at least 3 point. No use your alarm screaming its tits off while some punk is driving away with your line. Wen will they start to make alarms like that on robocop which electricutes thieves?

Speaking about rebuilds, what is the cheapest price for a rb25det rebuild? I've heard figures ranging from 3-7. If I only get new forged pistons and gtr rods where does the other 2-5 grand go? This is for the bare minimum required for a rebuild.