rd-runr

Get a compression test and leak_down test done. That will tell you if its stuffed or not. Not that expensive less than $100.

Thanks guys, will be checking these places out.

I thought the hissing sound is from the fuel line depressurising?

Sambo33, If you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost you all up and what was done? U can PM me if u like.

Hey guys, Any suggestions on places in Adelaide to look for parts for 33 rb25det rebuild ie. pistons, rods etc. Also any experiences with local engine builders would be helpful too. Thanks.

PM sent.

If the coolers not damaged then maybe you need a retune of the PFC! The size looks fine for 210kw.

He's definately dreaming! I dragged off a Integra Type R (latest model) twice a couple of years ago in my auto when it was stock. :lol:

He's definately dreaming! I dragged off a Integra Type R (latest model) twice a couple of years ago in my auto when it was stock.

beefy, how about a nismo strut brace with the integrated brake master cylinder stopper for 33 gtst?

If you want to know the difference between bar and plate or tube and fin designs check out: www.are.com.au If u r still hell bent on a bigger cooler the Trust coolers will fill the gap and also the Hybrids. I've got a Trust FMIC and construction and efficiency are great but others have rated the Hybrids fairly high too. Sell your cooler to make a little bit up for the loss of buying a new one.

RB74s have eaten my DBA 4000 slotted rotors as well. Hardly n e slots left! Think I'll go Bendix ultimates next time.

Would this problem be the same for Series 1 R33s?

From memory the 044 is usually used as an external pump. Try a search, I remember this topic being covered on a fuel pump thread.

Saw those one the other day, car had maybe a veilside bodykit. Got busted staring/perving but still got a thumbs up! SWEET.

Is it not too late to join? Who and how do I pay?

Do we get A/F ratios with the power run or just power?

AFM stands for Air Flow Meter and basically measures the amount of air flowing into your engine. Its located on the pipe which runs from you airbox or pod filter to the turbo. Its a black cylindrical plastic thingy with a connector with wires coming outta it. As for your boost control you can fit it back into the inlet piping that runs over your engine.

Blitz SBC ID3 if you have the cash! Otherwise get the optional boost controller for the PowerFC. Though, this could be the same price as the AVC-R and Profec B2????

OK, A while ago I changed my platinum plugs PFR5G-11 to coppers BCPR6ES and the car ran like shit. So I changed back and it was fine ago. Could this have been to the different gaps, heat ratings or both?

Bass Junky, What gap did you end up going for? How does it run?

Had the eManage Blue fitted and tuned a couple of weeks ago. Shifts still good, went from 148 to 198 rwkw!

Did you try disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes then reconnecting again. Don't know how long it should be but this should reset the ecu so that it can relearn the shifts again.

Alright, everythings been sorted. I disconnected the battery and went through the harness connections. The original loom was not screwed in tightly so I did this up. I also went through the wires and found that all were fine. Reconnected the battery and fired her up. Took her for a spin and shifts were perfect again. It actually felt smoother than before the eManage. I think that I should have reset the ecu after installing the shift kit as well! Anyways, so far so good with the eManage but still early days. I'll post up the condition of my coils when I change the spark plugs next. I've got a set of backup Splitfires in case they melt.

OK since the harness plugs into the ecu loom and also the ecu, maybe signals required for gear changes are getting screwed with before being passed to the ecu. And since the engine would cut out when pressure was applied to the harness then the wiring within the harness must be screwed. I may have just answered my own Q. :lol: Keep the suggestions coming in though!