rd-runr

BP Ultimate is the way to go. Vortex 98 is not as good. Apparently the RON is not advertised on Vortex as some Caltexs sell 95 or 98 Vortex. Best to check b4 filling up and use only if u have to!

Guys, Just went into the Woden Autobarn store and ordered some Greddy gear that is not in stock at the store but is in their warehouse in Adelaide or Melbourne. The 20% off does apply to everything. Last year when this sale was on I ordered a Blitz SBC which was not in stock at the store or in Australia. I got the manager to order it in and got 20% off that too. So, maybe its just me or not! Just insist that 20% off applies to everything as in the ad and if they don't give it to ya then go to Woden and see the manager. He'll fix you up!

Cats are suppose to last at least 100k km's, that's if the car is tuned properly ie. not running too rich. You can tell if its stuffed if you can hear a rattling sound coming from the cat. The magic cats are the way to go for a 3-4 inch system. There was a discussion on here a couple of weeks ago.

WELCOME Nath!!!! Definately give us a heads up when that 20% off everything sale happens again!

I'm down after engine management goes in!

Not unless you're going to use octane booster all the time after the tune.

Check the tutorial DIY threads. Pretty sure there is something there.

Upon opening up the cover I found that one of the connections from the loom to a coil pack had come undone. Put it back together now problem fixed. Thanks guys for the suggestions. Lesson learned: Don't change spark plugs in failing light!

The placard under my bonnet says: Auto - Idle 650 rpm Manual - Idle 700rpm

Yeah true, I read somewhere bout spark plugs and ignition timing so I fiddled around with it with no change in the jerking motion.

Cheers mate, I'll pull em out and stick the old ones back in to see what happens! How do I test whether the new ones r duds?

Totally agree with Gizmo73! Do a search about the throttle body issue! This topic has been covered in depth. In short there is a bee's dick gain from doing this as the stock TB is good up to 300rwkw or there abouts! Spend your money on something more beneficial. As for intercooler piping, I'd have to agree that the blitz kit piping would be the easiest and most beneficial. I've got a Trust kit with piping like krzysiu and have noticed that the top piping gets heated up by the engine, which defeats the perpose of the cooling!

OK, so I put a set of NGK BCPR6ES into my RB25DET yesterday. The plugs that were in there before were NGK PFR5G11. I fired the car up and immediately noticed a different tone coming from the engine. Warmed her up then took her for a lap around the block. The car seems to JERK continuously under acceleration now. When not accelerating everything is fine. The car now sounds like a mild V8. Does anyone know what the problem could be? Mods are 3' Turbo back exhaust, FMIC, 10psi boost & pod filter.

Great rotor and pad combination. They work a treat!

Don't you just hate that! And for the record it wasn't me. Spotted p1r4t8r everyday, I mean your car outside your house. Also, there's a gunmetal grey R32 GTR with V-Spec badge down in Conder which I see almost everyday as well. Shiny chrome wheels. Any1 from here?

Same here!

Yep, got this too. I suggest getting used to it until you take the dash fully apart. Probably just some piece of broken plastic floating around in there.

For any1 thats interested, this link is for comparisons of some electronis boost controllers: http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/020...c_boostcontrol/ good read!

twoquik, this link is for the english version of the manual for the sbc id, which is the same as the idIII: http://www.team3s.com/Blitz%20SBC%20i-D%20manual.pdf should answer your Q's!

I agree Col, SBC-ID III is unbelievably accurate. I know what you mean about the display too. Couldn't get over how small it actually was. But now I'm used to it, so its not so bad.

What Driver has done seems like the best option. The bigger the hole and air feed the better.

There sure is - well sortof! The main differences can be seen on the outside. The Series 2 has a different wing, front bar, bonnet and headlights straight out of the factory. From memory there are minor differences in the engine bay, the turbo in the series 2 are different internally from 1 as they are said to spool up quicker than the series 1.

I'm pretty sure that your grill is an after market item. Don't be too stressed about it. Your grill has less restriction then the other ones with bars so better airflow into engine bay. Seen another line down here with the same grill!

OK, heres what has happened. Less then a year ago I had a 3" hi-flow cat supplied and installed on my 33. Now the guy at the exhaust shop ensured me that the cat was a "True hi-flow unit unlike alot of the other shit that other shops sell". He also said that it would last up to 100,000 km before needing a change. So, I agree for them to fit one on. When I came back to pick up my car, I quickly noticed that the cat had been welded onto my cat-back exhaust without my permission. At first I was pissed off as they had not consulted or told me about this being done, but then I thought about it and concluded that the cat would not need to be changed in the next 100,000 km so it wouldn't matter. And maybe the welding of the cat would prove to be less a restriction than bolting up to the flanges of the exhaust? So for the next 11 months I had been driving around with not a trouble from my whole exhaust system until last week. Now I started to notice a rattling from my exhaust system. After careful inspection, I had pin-pointed this rattling sound to be coming from my cat. So, being a loyal customer, I took my car over to the same exhaust shop for them to fix it. I was told quite bluntly that the cat was f&*ked and that I would need to fork out another 400 or so dollars for a new one. F%CK! Me: 'What about the warranty? Surely I'd be covered by it as I had only done <30k & Mechanic: 'Sorry warranty doesn't cover modified vehicles'. So here I am with a f&*ked cat welded onto my exhaust. Now this situation has been made worse due to me not being able to find any info, let alone warranty info, on the cat which I've been told is branded "Autosound" or something. And also that the cat is welded on, which would require more labour to get off and another one put on compared with a bolted in cat. Now here is the Q: Has anyone heard of the brand "Autosound" for exhaust components? What should I do? -Is it probable that the exhaust guy is pulling my leg about the warranty? -Should I pursue this issue further or just cut my losses and get another cat? -Or is there some other alternative?

Are the Greddy Type R and Type S BOVs plumback or atmo?