Captain Wow

I got hold of the chap I purchased the car off and asked him what injectors they are. Apparently they're VQ35 decaped injectors that are flow rated to 550cc. Not so keen on decaped so I'll keen an eye out for some legit replacements. I sent the injectors off to the cleaners yesterday and picked them up this morning. Number 4 (the offending cylinder) injector was stuck open and was blatantly pouring fuel out so they've put it through the ultrasonic cleaner and it's come up good. He also told me he's put bigger filter baskets in them so that should be great. I'll get the compression tester onto the engine tonight and check the health of the engine (fingers crossed) Then hopefully put her all back together and get it up and running. Cheer for all the help guys, and I hope not to have to carry on this topic haha. - Lance

Righto, hydro lock is the winner I turned it over by hand when I got home this afternoon and number 4 cylinder erupted with fuel. Fingers crossed that rings and rods are still okay with a couple of false starts under it's belt. I'll compression test it once I've got the over fuelling sorted. I'm going to assume that the injector is leaking as I didn't notice an excess of fuel yesterday when I was turning it over but over 24 hours there was a clear build up of fuel. Can anyone confirm what these injectors are? I was told they were out of a 350Z. Cheers, - Lance

There was a reasonably strong smell of fuel and I didn't see and oil upon my quick inspection with a torch down the spark plug hole but I'll check again while turning it over tonight. Water level is staying constant and no water in oil or oil in water that I can make out. However I'll Tee Kay test anyways. I did have a quick look at the CAS when I took it out and physically it seemed fine but I do have a spare that I could also try. Cheers, - Lance

Ah brilliant! I was looking for a timing guide but hadn't sourced one, cheers Bob! I'm unsure of what to check for in regards with hydro lock. I'll do some research unless you have some advice? - Lance

Haven't checked for stuck injector (don't know how just yet) but I will figure out how and put that on the list of checks. Timing all lines up if I'm correct in assuming that the first mark on the left on the harmonic balancer is T.D.C? My electric fan stopped when the Mrs was taking the Stag out for a drive so yeah, shit happens lol. I though I'd been lucky enough to get away with no damage but it may transpire that I wasn't quite so lucky. Ah well, it's all part of the game with cars.

Hey mate. I had hydro locking in mind, which is why I stopped the cranking lol. From memory, number 5 cylinder plug was wet when I pulled them out today. I did check down the spark plug hole with a torch but couldn't see a lot so a boreoscope is the way to go. I was going to do a compression test tomorrow as I've had an overheating issue a while ago, though it's not been using any water even with a couple of long trips under it's belt since. However it's something I will check anyways. I'll have a bit more time tomorrow to look into it properly with the right tools and things you've suggested. Thanks a lot for your help, - Lance

It's hard to tell why it stops. It cranks over for a second or two but sort of thumps to a stop. Enough of a thump to physically shake the engine a bit. It's not a great feeling or sound so I'm a little reluctant to keep doing it. I might take out the plugs and disconnect the fuel pump and see if I can crank it over without issue. Yeah, I've checked the battery. It's a matter of a few months old but it's usually one of the first things I check just incase. Cheers anyway. - Lance

How'd you mean? I've taken the top cover off to check the timing marks. Had good tension and appeared to be in good nick. - Lance

Hey all, Driving home this morning, car seemed to be running well. Started to come on boost a little bit and the engine had a little shudder and didn't feel right, started producing a fair bit of white/grey smoke so I slowed down to pull over and the rev's dropped right down and the engine died. Got towed home and have been over it. Intake pipes are clean, turbo appears to be in good nick, timing is all lined up, can crank over with hand. Hasn't lost water or oil and has plenty of fuel. After I'd gone over it I had the coil packs unplugged and turned it over and it seemed to be turning over alright but then the whole engine locked up with a reasonable good thump. Wen't over it again, plugs out, manually turning over all was well. Put plugs back in and turned over with the key and same result with the locking up. I'm a little stumped now and I have the feeling like it's going to be something highly undesirable that is up. Anyone care to have a go with diagnosing this? Cheers, - Lance

I'm running a Link G4 on my S1 25det neo manual converted. I had to muck around with the wiring a bit but otherwise it was pretty straight forward. - Lance

Definitely worth a watch! Clever buggers they are. - Lance

I'd also be keen for a copy Bob. How big is the file? - Lance

Sweet, cheers guys. - Lance

Hey guys. I've come across some R34 Nismo front and rear sway bars off a GT-T. I was just wondering if anyone knew if they'd fit on my rwd C34. I had a quick look on the Whiteline website and the part numbers for the R34 and the C34 are the same so I would assume the Nismo items are the same. Also, they are spec'd at 27mm front and 23mm rear. What's the general consensus on the upgrade? Cheers, - Lance

Ebay would be your friend I would imagine. I picked mine up off Trademe over here in NZ. Haven't seen many of them around but just keep your eye out. Make sure you see a picture of it pulled out to make sure it's not been ripped of marked. Have fun with the Stag. - Lance

Has anyone got an idea where to source the hard pipes from that go from the heater matrix through the fire wall. Mine pretty much disintegrated in my hands when I took them out to do this? Cheers, - Lance

I knew mine was leaking due to the condensation on the windscreen after having the car running (and during) but there was no obvious water in the footwell so that's not always 100%. You can probably get your hand in under the dash and have a feel of the bottom of the core and see if its wet. I wasn't loosing any water out of the resivour that I could notice either. I guess a pressure test of the cooling system would be a way to check. Any other suggestions for zoomzoom? Cheers KiwiRS4T, I've dropped them an email too and see what they come back with. - Lance

To anyone who is interested, it is the same as the Skyline method mentioned above. Save yourself a massive ball ache and follow those instructions. Cheers Jezboosted as it saved me pulling apart the entire heater unit to get to the core haha. Now to have a sh*t at the $400 odd price tag of a new core. - Lance

zoomzoom: My electric fan stopped the other day when the mrs was driving and the car overheated a bit (nothing catastrophic thankfully). Since then I've had a coolant smell from the vents and my windscreen has been fogging up so it was pretty obvious what it was (so I hoped haha) After pulling everything apart today it was the heater core which obviously couldn't handle the extra heat caused with the over heating. I would imagine it was only a matter of time before it crapped itself. Jezboosted: Cheers mate! That looks very similar to the Stag and makes it look A LOT easier than what I was about to do haha. I'll look into it when I get a chance and see if it works. - Lance

Hey guys. So the heater core decided to shit itself in the Stag the other day so I've spent the morning pulling the dash etc out. Now I'm at the stage of looking at the heater unit but I've got no idea how to get into it to get the core out. From what I can see, it's going to be a absolute mission to pull out the entire unit. Is there a simple way of doing this or do I keep pulling apart till I get to the core. Cheers, - Lance

Best thing to do really is take to then engine bay with degreaser and then watch to see where the oil is coming from. Otherwise it's a needle in haystack game. - Lance

Boost T's only go one way man. There should be something on it telling you which way to plump it up. The arrow should be going into the actuator. - Lance

I havent looked but shouldn't you be able to join the pipes going into the firewall for the heater core? I would guess a hard pipe of around 30mm and a couple of hose clamps. Would be a 'get you home' solution. - Lance

Would you be willing to ship to NZ? - Lance

Hey mate. How much you looking at for the gear stick surround and centre console? Cheers, - Lance