Vexx

Hey mate, Sorry for the lack of replies here guys. Fixed the problem. New set of YellowJacket coilpacks instantly fixed the engine light, stopped the exhaust note sounding like a beast WRX and gave me a noticeably quicker vehicle. =] PS. Yes, turning off ignition and flicking it back over did remove the engine light.. for a few minutes.

Not looking to spend heaps as it's just not justifiable, i'll get my opens in 2 years and would prefer to have a bit to splurge on something with a much more powerful base. My girlfriend has a VW Golf, FWD, that i've driven on many an occasion and i'm not sure if it's the German design, weight or shape but it feels terrible in comparison to the RWD Skyline.

Thanks for the replies guys, Yeah sorry Lindz, that was a typo. I like my Nissans, mainly the Skyline and FWD's just feel wrong to me, personal preference though, not hating on them or anything. The Skyline is probably the only thing i can currently legally drive that would satisfy my tastes, if i could drive a 350z i would have one in a heartbeat.. If i could turbo it or throw another engine into it i would but the P-Plate restrcitions would still get me.. I'm not a hoon or anything, believe me, but a little bit more power would make me smile. Too embarresed to take the NA to a track haha. So far we have shorter diff ratios suggested, anything else at all? Cheers, Cory.

Hey guys, I've spent quite a lot of time searching through the N/A sections to try and find advice on what needs to be done to create an amazing N/A with great responsive-ness. So far all i have managed to find is advice on how to make better power figures (OMG!!11!! BIG NUMBERS!!1!) As a P-Plater in Vic i cannot legally drive anything that is decently powerful so the best i have to play with is an N/A that sticks within a certain power-weight ratio and as i highly value my licence i have to stick within my confines.. SO! What needs to be done to an N/A RB20DE to make it an exceptionally responsive unit? I'm not after low numbers in a straight line, as it's daily driven i need it to be practicle and sensible but i would also like to be able to blow the doors of a turbo'd car when it comes to winding roads =] Cheers, Cory.

Really contemplating getting a some Yellow Jackets for my '98 R34 N/A as so far all i've seen is good feedback in regards to the product. What would the costs be if delivered to Melbourne? Also, how hard are they to install in an R34? Never done the job myself but i've heard they are a bit of a pain to get to.. Cheers, Cory.

So a little update here. Took my car to a different mechanic for a second opinion. This bloke said it's possible that coilpacks are shitty but he said the cam timing seems a bit off. Went back to original mechanic who did the job and he conceded it was a little bit off, corrected it (Free of charge of course) and then ran some scans to find an error code for the CEL. Codes came up as : 21 - P1320 IGN SIGNAL-PRIMARY Bloke reckons i should replace all 6 coilpacks, he doesn't seem to think it would be worth trying to isolate which pack is failing. Would it be wise to just replace all or should i attempt to isolate? Any suggestions for which packs to go for? OEM or Splitfires? Cheers, Vexx.

What is making you lean towards a timing issue BuuBox? Would timing issues be bringing up the engine light? Also just thought i might add, she's starting to chug the petrol pretty hard lately - Another sign of a bad coilpack? Thanks for the info there RB25DETC33, might have to give that method a try on the weekend and see how i go. =]

Hey guys, First post on the forums so i'm hoping this is in the right section. I'm a proud owner of an R34 25GT, fresh imported, full complianced. Havn't had any problems with it until now. When imported it had approx 67,000k's clocked up so i thought i'd leave i until around 70,000 before getting a major service. Just after hitting 70,000, check enigne light starting appearing periodically, an ignition restart would remove the light so i didn't think much of it.Took it in for a major service and the mechanic shits bricks when he sees the condition of the timing belt (I saw this also, didn't look as bad as he was making out but i figured i'd get it replaced to be on the safe side). So after forking out $800 for a full service and timing kit i get my car back on the weekend and i'm less than impressed with the outcome. Firstly, check engine light is still showing, being more persistent now than ever. Secondly, in the low RPM range car has lost a substantial amount of power. Thirdly, the note the exhaust is making is not what i remember at all, when driving every now and then it starts grumbling like a V8 with no exhaust. All this is making me question the condition of the coilpacks. I took the car back to the mechanic who ran it on the computer and got an error code advising that the coilpack(s) were faulty. I'm really beginning to question the integrity of this mechanic as he claims he cannot diagnose which coilpack is faulty so we have to replace them all and he quoted approx $320 for the parts + labour on top. Now this sounds like absolute shit to me so i did a little research and it seems coilpacks can be tested using a multimeter? Can anyone confirm this? Normally wouldn't care too much about the pricing but i know when i'm being shafted and i;m not keen to give this guy any more business. Can anyone either recommend a mechanic in the northern suburbs of Melbourne or is the job simple enough that i may be able to do this myself? Cheers, Vexx.