flavzz

I will get it checked when the timing belt gets changed soon. Any confirmation on if the vac line from the BOV's is split into any other line before the plenum such as the charcoal cannister or is that separate?

Thanks for the replies so far. Is there any way to check for a blockage besides taking the whole system apart? I will try get a leak test done to identify all possible losses but nothing is audible upon driving it. The only other thing of relevance is when I took it to the dyno the timing was retarded to 10*. For what reason I'm not sure, so they advanced it using the CAS back to 20* stock value. But now the CAS setting is about as far to the right as it can go which my mate said is unusual to see on a RB26. It should be pretty neutral in its stock setting yeah? Is it worth checking if the base timing of the cam gears is set up correctly?

Yes intake is stock. Haven't tried any other AFMs yet. Permanent blanking is an option but I would rather keep it all running as designed. Also I have replaced the vac lines from BOV to the chassis nipples with new vac line. But I could still replace the line to the plenum.

Hey all, I'm chasing some power issues on my 26. Sorry for the long winded essay so if you dont want to read the background skip to the question at the bottom I have just included the info below so if I have missed something people may be able to spot the problem. The symptoms are; Low responsiveness/sluggishness, overall power output lower than normal. Running rich, backfires between gears, some flutter/surging when travelling uphills especially. The car still makes decent power from 3-3500rpm but lacks some punch. I should also note that I have been battling these issues since buying the car so I dont have a baseline to compare it to which makes it hard. Car made 140kw on the dyno which is probably at least 40-50kw lower than where it should be comparing it to other stock 26's with full 3 inch exhaust. Compression is 150 across all cylinders and it doesn't blow smoke or misbehave otherwise. I have done the air flow meter resolder since the dyno run and feels like it picked up a little power since then so maybe its at 150kw now. Certainly runs smoother too. Also I have been diagnosing the problem with another SAU member who knows much more about RB's than me. Car specs Stock RB26 3 inch front pipes and 3inch Apexi cat back system Originally thought maybe one of the turbo's had given up so we; Measured boost on the turbo side using a boost gauge and some vacuum line plugged under the Twin Turbo pipe. This showed good strong boost but we noticed at the same time the reading on the stock boost gauge(which obviously measures pressure in the plenum) trailed the turbo side significantly(as much as 50%), suggesting to us that on the inlet plenum side it may be losing boost somewhere. So it seems the turbo's are making good boost but im losing it somewhere between the turbos and the plenum. Therefore if the intercooler looks ok(which it does) then we thought maybe it was a blow off valve issue, so the front bar was removed and all intercooler and hose connections inspected, no obvious leaks were apparent. Blow off valves taken off and inspected and they looked in great condition, opening and shutting perfectly. The last thing we could think of in the system is if the pressure lines to keep the blow off valves shut under boost arent working properly then boost is being wasted back into the turbo side and not into the plenum. This could account for the rich running, backfiring, flutter/surging etc and therefore the power loss I think. We tried to trace the lines from the BOV's to the plenum with not much success besides seeing anything under a GTR plenum is challenging at the best of times. The next thing we did to test this theory is block off the blow off valves with some hard rubber and test drive to remove the recirculation problem from the equation. On the test drive the car seemed much more responsive and stronger throughout the rev range. Also boost came on much earlier as indicated on the stock gauge. So we returned the car to original condition and it seemed to return to the usual behaviour. Therefore is this my problem and where to go from here if these return pressure lines arent working correctly? Question: Where is the correct location for the lines from the top of the BOV's to connect to the plenum (I want to check they are in the correct place)? Is there another suitable location to plumb them into the plenum to test the BOV's shutting properly under boost? I have the diagram here (The salmon colour in the top left corner) but I cant tell where they connect, it seems to have them spliced to the charcoal cannister. Is this correct, and could there be a leak be in this area? I understand there is a lot to take in here but I think we have narrowed the problem down to the boost recirculating back before entering the plenum. I may be completely wrong but this is where I'm at. Cheers in advance if you have any helpful advice.

I really enjoyed reading this thread mate. Nice build.

I literally got a "nice volvo mate" comment last weekend. Definite face-palm moment but I immediately thought of this thread.

The lot for 180 I'm referring to obviously.

Hi mate, were the shocks and springs in good condition when u removed them? If I can organise a reasonable postage cost I'll take them. Im in SA. Cheers

I'll take one if they can be had for $120 posted. Cheers

Haven't had any luck finding these yet. Anyone have any? Really keen to track them down..

Great build mate, love the black GTR. Nice choice on the -9's too, if I had the cash they are exactly what I would use on my 260. Response and Power

Pm me the details. I'd be keen to say g'day.

Cheers for the offer but location could be a prob..

Anything out there?

Hey all, I'm currently studying mechanical engineering at uni and I'm trying to source a motor I can pull apart for study purposes. I have no intention of rebuilding it only to learn more about how it all fits together. Something blown or damaged would be ideal as obviously it would have little to no value. Ideally a blown CA18 which someone has no use for would be great and I can haul it away from u for free Do not need turbos/manifolds etc, anything other than the block and head really. Located in Adelaide.

I'll take the GTR front rotors. Pm me

Great thread. What kind of power is the engine making? What's the power delivery like?

Thanks mate ill look into it and pm you.

Bump.

Blitz boost gauge $10 I know its only $10 but is this genuine Blitz? Does it require a control unit?

Anything out there guys?

I'm after these specific issues if anyone has them. I'm not sure exactly what numbers they are but they say GTR special on the front. One or all of them would be great.

After taking out the stacker in the boot section of the stag there are 2 ugly brackets left which appear to be glued to the floor! Anyone had experience removing these without destroying the carpets?

Thanks heaps for the advice on this thread, I just installed a JVC media unit in under an hour which for me is great. Luckily the existing loom from the stock kenwood deck clipped straight in. Cheers

Definite interest here if this goes ahead if it will fit 260rs